SwFsnapper

Great post, swapped my drivers side with passenger side within 5 minutes. Will order up a repair kit at a later date and report here how the fix went Many thx

Hi, Yup, I was a bit disappointed that my repair only lasted 2 years, but its a pretty exposed area round the hub. I would highly recommend replacing the ring instead. I am absolutely stoked that I have helped out a few people. I for one (because of my large family, thus the MPV) can't afford all garage costs. So by research and doing these jobs my self I can save money that can go towards jobs that are out of my scope. Thanks for all your comments and the help from other people on this site. Keep up the good work. SwFsnapper

Hi After 2 years my epoxy repair finally gave out. Which is fine because it gave me some time to do some research on a more permanent and economical repair. I found a company on the internet that sold replacement rings for

steve, the crank sensor isn't all that hard to replace... don't take it to a garage... have a go mate... It should only take 30min max...sent you a personal msg earlier explaining how I did mine. Good luck mark

Hi, I finally solved the answer to my intermittent engine cut out, turns out it was the crank/speed sensor. I have to confess I did replace the two relays (30/27 and 167) commonly associated with engine fuel and power problems first. The plug end of the replay is easy to access but there is no test you can carry out on the sensor to determine it is at fault. You can get hold of a cheap Vag Com and that will highlight the speed sensor fault. I got a new sensor for

Hi, I finally solved the answer to my intermittent engine cut out, turns out it was the crank/speed sensor. I have to confess I did replace the two relays (30/27 and 167) commonly associated with engine fuel and power problems first. The plug end of the replay is easy to access but there is no test you can carry out on the sensor to determine it is at fault. You can get hold of a cheap Vag Com and that will highlight the speed sensor fault. I got a new sensor for

Hi, any fix on this? I'm having the same problem, changed relay 30 and considering relay 167 - but also looking into the crank speed sensor. Ta SwFsnapper

Hi, Any joy with this problem? I just replaced the coil, leads, cap and rotor on my Mk1 2.0l Alhambra to fix a rough running problem, but during the test drive the engine cut out on me (oil px light started flashing, steering became heavy) I pulled over and tried to restart, the engine would trun over but not fire. As I sat there contempating what to do next I heard a click of a relay behind the dash, tried a restart and the engine fired and I got home without fault. Checked the oil at home which is fine, now I'm thinking about relay 30. But what is it? and are my sysmptoms indicative of a relay 30 fault. I wonder because I still maintained electrical power after the engine died (i.e. I was able to turn the engine over!!) Your thoughts are appreciated SwFsnapper

Many many thanks for this great post - checked my coil using a multimeter and straight away confirmed the coil was u/s - saved me a bunch of time messing about... GSF have reduced the price of the coil... now down to

John, I checked and this is the drivers side loom for a sharan pt number 7m0971120anf. If you want it let me know, I can send pics if required. SwFsnapper

John, I don't know what side the loom is for, other then it's a front door loom. I'll post the pt number here when I get home. Still interested in a solution to the crimp problem, must be a tool out there to remove them??? SwFsnapper

John I have the same problem with the passenger door on my Alhambra. The dificulty is getting the crimps out of the plug. I had ago with several tools and managed to get one out after an hour of struggling but in the end I started to damage the plug. I did get a brand new VW Sharan front door loom off ebay for

Hi all, The ring is metal. Over a year later and my repair is still holdng!! Thanks to all for a great forum, helped me out loads. SwFsnapper

You gotta love this forum... It just saved me a lot of bother. I also just had the same problem. One of my passenger doors locked but wouldn't unlock, even from the inside!! A potential death trap in an accident. I took the door card off (with the door closed, no easy task) to try and manually activate the lock with no joy. It was jammed solid. Spent 10 mins on this forum and learnt about the damaged wires through the rubber loom boot. I gave that a good rub/massage, and tada, the door opened. As I had the door card off I took the loom out altogether and an inspection revealed that I have several broken wires and the condition the rest of the wire is very poor so I'm going to look into a complete replacment or a more major repair... will report back with a complete fix. SwFsnapper PS This is a top post... thanks

PS If there is an area on this site for technical procedures, could some one let me know - If there isn't, could I suggest such a thing where people can downloed procedures? Cheers SwFsnapper