seatkid

1. Bulbs do go, but may be related to 2. 2. Check tailgate loom at rubber gaiters for breaks in wires - common problem 3. Join the club 4. You have to remove the scuttle tray and have an appropriate container (with spout) - However, if brake fluid is low, you may well find its time to change brake pads.......(or you have a leaking clutch slave cylinder) 5. Turn radio up 6. Is the undertray missing or the towing eye cover not fitted? (diesel engines)

Check all the bolts holding the undertray are still there. Check engine roll restrictor is not loose. How do you know its not ARB links? Have you changed them recently? Some cheap links (i.e. all non OEM) have ridiculously short life. Any play at all ( & you need a lot of muscle to check by hand) and they need changing. My money's on ARB link(s)

FAQ 59 may help

Looks as if the piston crown may have whacked the plug out - is that possible? :lol: big end detached? Only other thing I can think of is a valve head somehow became detached and dropped into the chamber....... No compression on adjacent cylinder? Strange - stuck valve or hole in piston? LPG eh? Methinks its a scrapper........

Are you sure you are entering the code correctly? The correct sequence is to toggle the 1 button until the first digit displayed is correct, then the 2 button for the second digit, etc Once the LCD display shows the correct code, press 5 You dont just tap the code in using the numbers like a calculator - that would be too easy!

Its a bracket! Make mine a shandy! :lol:

Start by checking ignition - plugs, leads, coil pack. Over 90% of rough running is associated with these. Its not LPG is it?

Thats expensive to patch a frayed wire!

ARB (Anti roll bar) drop links, see FAQ nr.2 for full information. Original parts from Ford / VW / SEAT dealers last much long than cheaper ones from motor factors,ebay etc. Worth paying the

As mentioned in the original post - checked under the passenger seat for water - everything is bone dry.. I'm assuming the constant faint beeping is an error indication (if I press the Parking Sensor button after they've been turned on then the beeping stops) Sorry, must read more diligently next time! Maybe connectors/wiring come adrift on a sensor? Sensor gone short circuit? Could be control box fault, maybe check for heathy 12 volt supply. Unusually faint beep may indicate a short or lack of power.

I think it fairly certain you need to remove the bumper. How? Screws and clips - think someone posted details....

Whirring noise on 1.9 tdi is the coolant afterrun pump (I think thats what they call it). Read somewhere on this forum of problems of this not switching off and causing the battery to go flat. It normally runs for up to a minute or so when the engine is hot after switch off.

If its under the passenger seat, check for water in there. Common fault - search for leaking rear washer pipe.

I would have thought the ECU needed a digital signature/handshake before it would cooperate with starting the engine but maybe I'm wrong. In any case, you wont find anything about bypassing the factory fit immobiliser on this site, as publishing that kind of information is irresponsible and compromises other peoples rights. It may also affect insurance valuations for our vehicles. This information would aid the theft of vehicles and I would complain to the moderators/owner if this kind of information is published here.

BTW I have the laser tool and it works a treat. It has an double sided adaptor that has different lug spacing on each side. I have a Mk1 Alhambra.

You turn and push clockwise. I've proved that its impossible (for me) to do this without the correct tool, and I'm usually pretty good at brute force things. There is no thread to "engage" as I can detect.

It cannot be bypassed, thats why its called an immobiliser. I've got 3 keys for my car, but only ever used one in 11 years and never lost it. Whats the problem?

You've got the wrong tool by the sounds of it. You need a tool that winds and pushes the piston back at the same time. e.g. Laser Tool 1314 available at GSF car parts as item 98741 at about

How is that a new Seat Alhambra? :unsure:

ermmm, yes......I think :unsure:

Check the tensioning spring at the end of the centre cable has not come off. This is located under the car on the centre line just in front of the rear axle. Its common for the plastic bit that it attaches to part company with the cable/adjuster. Parts are cheap but need to be ordered if bits go missing. Photos, diagrams etc are in a topic by mumof4 Liberal doses of WD40 on the brake cables (cores) and particularly on the parking levers on the rear calipers advisable as these tend to get rusted/seized up and stick on causing premature wear of the pads/discs

See the countless topics on vacuum pipes, sticky vane actuators (110bhp model), and turbo control solenoids,tmapsensors and other bits and bobs that slip my mind at the moment.

Switch the A/c to ECON and the radiator fan should stop.

if you ignore mk2vr6, he usually goes away (to snif some lpg I think). Its not true about the discussion about 55mpg - its 60mpg

Yes you can, but its best if you remove the sensor from the MAF housing (2 x torx screws). Only one or two members have reported success though. When I tried, it made no difference (I did clean the sensor whilst still in the housing though) The sensor is an i.c. Hot film sensor c/w conditioning electronics. What seems to happen is the calibration drifts over time (due to contamination and/or wear of the film sensor) until the electronics can no longer compensate.