seatkid

:rolleyes:

Really??.... pass me my rose coloured specs......

Sorry, I didnt mean to offend -_- I forget that not everyone has as thick a skin as VR6Galaxy :)

How sad.... -_- I have seen connectors/adaptors in the internet but they are really expensive. You didnt see that one coming when you got your "cheap" iphone? :) Does anyone have any ideas. Put your music on a CD ^_^ and don't worry, I've already ****ed off.... :P

If you have illuminated vanity mirrors in the window shades, check those - a cracked plastic surround means they often dont switch off when you close them.

Turn the radio up......should fix it. :)

Thats a VW gearbox.

Depends on what gearbox is fitted. Mk1's fitted with the Ford box require a special fluid. Somehow my crystal balls are a bit misty today. :) and I unable to guess what model, year, variant etc you have!

With previous cars I never bothered undoing the nipples, but then again they didnt have ABS. The problems I experienced were 1. overflowing fluid from the reservoir due to topping up the fluid at some stage :) 2. On the passat the brake pedal developed a funny characteristic. Under moderate pressure, it would sort of click, and move slightly but abruptly down at the same time - something I assumed was a partly inverted seal or damaged/contaminated master cylinder. IIRC It does say on my TIS to clamp the pipes and undo the nipples, however...My approach (to back brakes) is... Don't clamp the pipes - it can only damage them Connect a bleed kit (a jar with a pipe) to the nipple and undo the nipple and pump the pedal gently 4 or 5 times to pump the carp out and get enough in the jar to ensure air cant get back in. Nip up nipples lightly to seal while removing caliper/pads (the dirty fluid tends to be drawn in while handling the caliper) Undo nipples while winding back the pistons, nip up nipples again. Refit pads/caliper and pump the pedal lightly to push pads to discs. Undo nipples and pump pedal 4-5 times to flush last bit of carp out. Nip up properly and do other side. Keep an eye on fluid level as you need to top up with fresh fluid. The same would apply to the fronts (which I havent done yet - originals only on 105,000 miles!), but should be a bit simpler. Helps keep clean, fresh fluid in the system. I would be worried about pushing the crud (of which there is a surprising lot) back up the system, potentially contaminating the master cylinder (which supplies fluid to the clutch) and the ABS unit (which would be a disaster).

NO! DO NOT DO THIS! Dangerous thing to do as a glow plug can take 100 amps! And slipping onto the block could spell disaster (shorted battery). Use a lead with a lamp in series - faulty glow plugs are high resistance/open circuit and the lamp will not glow.

Why? Were you trying to steal it? ;) Let your fingers do the walking and use Yellow Pages. Phone around.

How about yourself? Search for creaking and you may find the answer!! :(

There is a locking nut and the end of the track rod end has two flats so you can use a spanner to hold it when loosening the locking nut. A liberal dose of WD40 or other penertrating oil is recommended 30 minutes prior to the the attempt if much corrosion is present.

Dont remove the battery tray or your engine will drop out!!!!

It may be a second hand screen that was fitted. When my 6 month old Corsa was rear ended, it had a new tailgate fitted. After a week or two I noticed 3 elements not working. Dealer tried to fob me off with "wear and tear" (!!!) and "It was fitted by RAC windscreens go and see them". THe guy at RAC windscreen was very helpful - they did not fit and could prove it and on close inspection, he found the original screen had been removed from the damaged tailgate and fitted in the new. In the process of cutting back the seal, somone had damaged the screen printed elements and you could see bothe the cutting marks on the glass and where they had painted the glass to cover the damage. Dealer admitted and changed the screen. Do a close inspection of the elements looking for the breaks and then check the ends for damage/evidence of cutting.

On second thoughts I think Richard may be right - gear cable problem.

Clutch not disengaging fully. Could be the driver, or master/slave cylinder, or even faulty clutch.

Sounds like a CV joint going?

You could drive with the MAF sensor disconnected. It'll be as flat as a fart but if the vibration is still there at least you know its not the MAF sensor. Because it doesnt happen until an hour has passed, I inclined to think its the EGR valve. They can be stripped and cleaned, messy job though. Find out if your car is fitted with a DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) - these are often the cause of roughness / vibration. However it would be there most of the time.

I mean remapped, tuned etc to get massive increases in power and torque. A lot of people do this with VW diesels as it is very easy and quite cheap. A lot also dont tell their insurance, garage or subsequent owners and quietly restore them to standard after 3 years or when something starts going wrong (e.g. mysterious overheating) and get shut. The massive torque often exceeds the transmission rating. But maybe I being too harsh on people? :( By "warranty" I mean the dealer/trader is under obligation to supply goods of a merchantable quality under the consumer protection act. This has special meaning when it comes to second hand cars. It basically means that if your engine drops out or blows up the week after you bought it, then whoever sold the car is under some obligation to either fix it or refund you in full. Unless he can prove the fault was yours. Third party insurance is not relevant.

Aren't all sales from garages/traders covered by a 3 month warranty under consumer law? Deeply suspicious that a gearbox should go like that. Could have been another "chipped" car.

If its passenger footwell only thats wet, its more likely to be a disconnected rear washer pipe. Also well known that blocked scuttle drains push rain water through the pollen filter and through the heater matrix. Are you losing coolant? (Level falling?) The 2 pipes to the heater matrix are located just to the drivers side of the wiper motor (you need to remove the plastic scuttle tray - 3 bolts - to see it.) You could disconnect these and link with a bit of pipe.

Follow the manufacturers procedure (TIS CD) It somewhere on the forum I'm sure. Just guessing but its something like No.1 at TDC camshaft locked at non belt end with the flat bit to the cylinder head using locking tool. Lock fuel pump pulley with Drill bit shoved through correct hole into engine block See here for example

Show the man some respect Gregers! ;) One day we will all achieve Nirvana... :(

If you were a woman, I'd say you were the type salesmen can see coming from a mile away. Gee...what can I say? Bad bad luck. :( Somewhat backs my theory that a significant proportion of 2nd hand vehicles have known underlying problems and thats why thet get shut pronto. Hence my reluctance refusal to buy a 2nd hand car. Judging from this forum, the majority of owners love their cars and dont grow bored with them or outgrow them. Only ones that seem to jump ship are the ones with the problem pups.