seatkid

:40: My pleasure, Sean! I always try to keep my gob shut when I don't know what I'm talking about :)

<_< The saga goes on....."I've seen this all before, will I never learn?" Picked up the car, with highly apologetic VW service manager, who said that in hindsight, they should have just got on with the job, they are out of pocket, bla, blah. Yeah, I said, so do you want the job (at

Severe back problems and old age (loosing my self confidence) are main reason. I'm already a bag of nerves that VW have f***ked something up (like my a/c). Booked into independent in 2.5 weeks time. <_<

Went for the more expensive

AHU Water pump is not driven from cambelt. Only PD engines have a cambelt driven water pump.

Wrong section - try the Mk3 section

Looking at the picture of a loom here it looks as if the connector is on the right hand side of the head(looking towards the rear of the car). After disconnecting each connecor at the injectors, it looks simply as if you undo the cylinder head connector mounting bolts and pull the assembly out.

Ball ended allen keys? Maybe this diagram will help If the pipe is still in the dipstick tube maybe poke a stiff wire down and fish it out. I might be wrong but looking at that diagram, maybe the dipstick tube can be removed.

Maybe your privacy glass is not OE but aftermarket tints?

Most people have a go at cleaning /remaking the connectors first (sometimes works) Recently posted photo showing connectors - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5985

On my fuse box infographic (late 98 tdi with AHU engine) Fuse 2 appears to be electric windows and mirrors. Note: major changes occurred going from early 98 (1Z engine) to late 98 (AHU/AFN) models. The wiring was completely revamped and fuses/layout are completely different.

Wouldnt be surprised if its a dealer only part. Try phoning GSF car parts, usually very helpful. Part no's (VAG Catalog)

Your 2002 model will have a PD engine. Rough Idle is often a faulty injector loom or connectors. Do a search to find out more. Whoosing noise from passenger footwell is normal when recirculation is turned on - the air intake is then from that area. if recirc is definately not on then "kettling" type noises are usually an indication that a/c gas is low. (but not low enough for the pressure switch to inhibit the pump), in this case cooling is very weak. No cold air from a/c - how do you know pump is spinning? Does the electromagnetic clutch clack loudly when you select a/c along with a momentary dip in revs?

As you can see here and here a kit should contain a belt, tensioner, idler roller and all necessary bolts,nuts and washers that need to be replaced.

On a 98 Tdi AHU(90bhp) and probably the AFN(110bhp) too, the water pump is independent of the cambelt and looks a bit of a pig to change, involves removing PS pump and unclipping/moving a/c pipes. Book time for changing the water pump is 2.5 hours IIRC. The thermostat is at the bottom front of the block and also requires PS pump to be removed as well as some intercooler pipework. I'm having my pump and stat changed at my dealer for £320. (independent £240) Remember to use G12++ or compatible coolant only as other type can chemically react with the standard coolant, gelling and blocking up the cooling system.

Level ground - Engine off - Put the car in 1st gear to prevent it moving. Jack up each rear wheel in turn and releasing the handbrake, check they spin freely.

Check your rear disks to see if they are stinking hot - be careful not to burn yourself! Its common for the parking brake to stick on, on one or both disks (usually the drivers side) and squealing is a usual symptom.

Its all in the tech Faqs section Door Car Removal

Put your key in the drivers lock and lock the car, holding the key in the lock position. All windows should close globally.

Dropped off all belts today and I found the problem! - knackered water pump :rolleyes: rough as a bears arse.... Considering quotes (change pump+thermostat+coolant) VW dealer

Is it a squeal or a whistle?

Errm...... how does he do that if he cant open the door? :rolleyes: I think you should still be able to remove the door card with the door shut - as the door seals sit on the metal around the card. IIRC remove the door handle and trim around locking lever first, then (it'll be a bit of a squeeze) starting at the bottom put your fingers under the card and tug sharply towards you to unpop the plastic lugs. then work your way around unpopping all the lugs until you can swing the card up, then lift out of the window channel.

Definitely not clutch. No DMF on my 90bhp, 110bhp does have DMF and one way clutched alternator. frightened it might be idler roller on cambelt. It does sound very much as if the noise coming from aux tensioner spring housing. I found the original belts [Conti 1145] (I tend to keep things like that! :rolleyes:) Tommorow will compare belt lengths and maybe swap (original belt has cracks in the ribbing so will only a temporary try out.) If necessary, I will also try original suggestion of removing all belts and see if the noise disappears. I don't do PMs, sorry.

Thought about that but knowing my luck it would slip off and lots of swearing, blood, bruised knuckles would follow!! :rolleyes: Anyway the new tool makes changing the aux belt a cinch :) The new roller makes the old roller look clapped out so I thought it must be this. Starts car up, initially sweet, revs the car up and....doh!...the noise is still there!! :angry: So using the ear to screwdriver technique, it seems a lot of noise is coming off the tensioner spring housing.....and looking at the roller I notice its almost fully in the vertical position. Looks as if the belt is stretched and maybe the tensioner is at or near the hard limit. So it's off with the belt tomorrow and down to GSF to compare it against a new one.