Dave-G

like so many other people kip, you give skant info about your motor...like pre/post facelift! I cant confirm that it was a problem on "pre's" cos i dint get it. but "posts" have a well known failure point of the rear-wash feeder pipe,in the front passenger kickplate. In short, the pipe "blows off a joint" super-glue should do the trick But take note....it was originally designed to glue human skin!

For Andy.. a fuji finepix a204, set at the smallest size and quality it will allow, to minimise time loading this page. However i think there's probably another section of this forum for "off subject stuff"

Well, I aint found out for sure,but thanks to S A i searched nitrile and a few other sites. Nitrile is highly resistant to air/oil/water/abrasion/temperature etc, which suggests a clutch/friction/grab function. the part of the pully that holds the belt teeth is bolted over the actual pully(having smooth pollished sides about 1" deep) via slotted holes that allow for adjustment of perhaps 1 belt tooth,and or timing. It's a sort of TOP HAT over the actual pully! Camshafts apparantly have massive harmonic vibrations that can cause metal fatigue. Although the "hat" is bolted to the pully, I assume the layers of nitrile material somehow damp the lateral vibrations being transmitted elsewhere by the belt. I aint an engineer,but it seems feasible to me, and i can assume that the dust is a result of flexing to absorb those vibes'.....which suggest it's working correctly. Given that this sort of maintenance is mainly confined to main dealers(the gal is only 3yr old) us mere mortal private users wont have discoverred it yet? Edit; In addition to the normal functions of a camshaft, these "pumpe-duse"? engines also employ the camsaft to inject the fuel(I believe) possibly producing even more harmonics than usual. OR maybe it's to damp belt bounce to the camshaft? I'm off to search "pumpe duse" next Another edit: Hmm, It seems the camshaft does inject the fuel, AT ABOUT 30,000 psi.............and explains why we dint see an injection pump!

Of course L C, you will notify your insurer's about the bars huh ?

They're a doddle to replace...pop out the old,pop in the new!plug in the wires first if heated type. I would never buy a car from anyone who could'nt or would'nt replace them with genuine parts, stick on's suggest the previous owner lacked in tender lovin care,and................................................................................Int it amazin how "missus" gets the blame?

The 110 bhp tdi's are all good for towing, but you may struggle with a 90bhp.how do you tell? The tdi badge at the rear is coloured red somewhere within it ,according to which brand the car is. the 90bhp has no red colour anywhere. thats as a quick check, examine the reg. doc's to confirm this. The 110's are sometimes referred to as "redeye's"...IE; they have a red "i" :rolleyes:

Why an hour DALLY? :rolleyes:

:rolleyes: You need to fix that outside light.nice colour..my mate's got one ..definit lighter shade of pale! B) :D Ah, thats how to get the emothings to work :lol:

You need to fix that outside light.nice colour..my mate's got one ..definit lighter shade of pale!

Thanks S A. I've been hearing a chuffing noise from the engine at idle if i stand near the bonnet. this is partly why i wanted the belt and tensioner changed ahead of schedule.the previous owners [an airline company] did their own in house servicing to ford spec[apparantly],they showed a cambelt change @ 40k but no mention of tensioner is made!...I thought they went together? The specified mileage for change on april 2k build is 60k, It changed to 40k with the intro of 3yr wty. edit; changed the belt and tensioner,both looked fine. Also found that the alloy saddle clamp holding the steel pipe to the turbo has a crack in it, across it's centre. It still locates the pipe firmly so I'll leave it be for now

My regular mobile mechanic removed my cambelt cover in preparation for the belt change & found a "red-rust-dust" inside. It seems to be mostly confined to the upper area,directly around the cam pully, any ideers? He's left it for the day in order to get the latest belt-change book before proceeding any further (difficult to get one on sunday's). In case this sounds as though he's inept,it's been a while since he worked for me and forgot that i now have a post 2k gal,rather than my old SEAT

maybe there's too many sunday drivers in the charmers area! BUT if you DO get them,drive up melton road for a bit,there's a good chap

I came across both the light guards and wind deflectors in CD's parts dep't while buying somat else, had to order them & wait 2 days. Methinks you're right about "not Ford",but dint keep boxes or documentation,so cannot confirm. they dont have a ford stamp on em .

the question is in the header

according to CD Brammel, there are two differing part numbers tween the old and new deflectors. I cant see the difference tween the doors either, but "cdb" spares guy sez new doors are squarer than old ones. I also got front light protectors at same time 'cos the plastic len's would costalot to replace if i cop a stone chip.

mine were

bought my gal at 15 months old, 15 months ago. air con dint work.independant air-con specialist used a "sniffer device",found a leak in a component located in a tube behind radiator grill,fixed near the off-sde portion of the radiator. since the replacement all has been well

I thought this was a GALAXY forum?...try the KA forum to find users with KA'S

I had this prob on my old SEAT, sounds like the cable snapped (it looks like straining wire.) I left that for main dealer

Wot you only used 1 foot? I've cut a hole in mine below the sump plug. Dont try leaving it off (like i did once) 'cos as soon as you hit a puddle your power steering belt gets wet and slips till it dries off-now that's scary!

I dont wish to alarm you, but this occurred with my old allhambra tdi,at times my throttle "stuck" at its rev's(once when overtaking a lorry on a single carriageway - approaching a bend),and a couple of times at idle. This was at the same time that I had MAF prob's referred to elsewhere,and I was told that the maf prob occurrs with repetitive off-side brake bulb failure, and the brake switch. Of course they could have been two unrelated faults at the same time,but a guy at Volkswares in leicester said they seem related on more than 1 occasion. My glowplug lamp was also flashing~along with the red led in the driver door. Throttle resumed operation on engine restart. Hope it works out ok.

never had the problem. I think Xeno' refers to the parking distance sensor control box that can be damaged with water when the rear screenwash feeder pipe ruptures within the nearside sill area. Ford have been aware of this weakness for some-time and "should have overcome it" If your dealer deny's this - shop somewhere else! I also raised the module plate under the seat, and superglued the water pipe over over the knuckle of the joint then wrapped copper wire around the pipe(inside the knuckle) then taped over the wire to prevent metal noise interference on fm radio

I ad a look....doh ![suitably embarrassed] For Ian...I got it 'cos I think they're brilliant, BUT the thread was what would we LIKE to change (given a far fetched opportunity)?

Dump the Mcpherson strut rear suspension & "arm rests" to make space for 3 rear seats. Extend the rear end by 300/500mm (without moving the rear seats aft much) to allow more luggage space.. Improve turning circle. Lower the instrument panel to allow better sight of it through the steering wheel. scrap the aux. heater turbine unless its fully operational,& useless swivel seats to reduce cost,with the armrests that get in the way..both silly gimmicks unless you're a contortionist. Raise the dashboard to allow for more usefull sized compartments. Replace the excuse for a clock. Create overhead storage above sun visors. Ban vertically challenged people who cant see over the dash from driving them.

You omitted details of your motor..my "r" reg seat misted up regularly in wet weather when i picked up damp passengers...till i ripped out the pollen filter, there was then enough air inlet to clear the screen,and keep it clear. My post 2k gal dont have that problem as it has a more powerfull inlet fan,and quickclear screen.