Dave-G

Yep - it's not one of their dealer garages so I have to pay then reclaim but a result nontheless. I have also asked them to do a 60k service for me :) This is the second term of the warranty - and each term has paid out more than my premium. Which makes a change because prior to this every warranty I took out was never drawn on :)

Kill your mate :)

I have been advised warranty diect has agreed a cost of

The first 90 days of a warranty direct policy do not cover wear and tear - thereafterwards they are covered up to the max mileage allowed. After 60K you start paying some of the repair. They Don't like electrical component failure like ignition switches but to date on my 59K mileage import - so no third year ford wty, I have had replaced: air con compressor, starter motor (

Auto box specialist had the side off it today. As they suspected (they spoke very knowledgeably about the box) a piston had started to crack around a welded head, allowing fluid to leak past. They had shown me one off a landy (jatco box is also used on rover 75's and jags apparently) that looked a bit like a can with teeth around its edge. It was maybe 5" wide and nearly 3" deep. They now have to remove the box -

The smell will be burnt fuel. The boosters heater's exhaust is directed towards the central rear of the car which gets blown away when driving. While stationary it will gather beneath the car and waft up it's sides.

Mine smoked a lot after I replaced the glowplug too. At a guess yours too would have a load of old unburnt oil inside it to burn off. If its now getting hot it will clear up.

Sound travels around the car. It won't hurt to check your droplinks at the front, give them a good pull around. Search for "droplinks" for more info

I have today tried swapping my MAF with a friends auto galaxy - I still get my occasional gear slip' too. I notice EVERY time it occurs - the engine temperature is between 85 and 90 degrees :lol: Would this be the case with yours mike? It performs faultlessly above and below this temp. Bear with me here because I have no scientic facts to explain the following apart from it being temp related, and something I discovered in a previous trial and error post. (part of the t-map sensing is engine temp) I found that trying the car with the t-map sensor unplugged causes gears to change with a pronounced slam, rather than the gentle, progressive and subtle change. Mine currently slips a bit then thumps into the required gear. Given that this occurs at the stated engine temperature range. Does anyone know if there is a route to the gear selection/requirement depending on engine temperature? I have also swapped my new t-map sensor with my frien to rule that out.

I seem to recall that this places the cv joints at angle that strains them... ? Please understand that I am only saying I think this is the case rather than it being a defininitve no-no

IIRC, the wheels are not supposed to be driven when fully 'suspended'... ?

page loading is very slow here

If it wont even get into gear it sounds clutch or gearbox shaft related to me :blink:

i dont really care :ph34r: MJR i see :D :D You lot can be so childish. :D who wants a game of tag then? :D you're it ( apparently you can get IT for

Aw - come on now - be reasonable... How else do you expect them to make their own firework extravaganza's pay?

The billowing smoke indeed sounds like a faulty glowplug in the booster heater, the clue being your comment about overfilling/leaking out anywhere it can. Mine did this. I temporarily disconnected a wire to the fuel feed pump (last winter) and replaced the glowplug this autumn. It's now tickety boo. you will find info on the FAQ's about "booster heater" The second probably coincidental problem... was this soon after a re-fuel... with petrol maybe?

It seems a bit irrelevant here - but my flashing display once cleared itself: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...wtopic=6966&hl=

In a nutshell, They are the same glass in the same moulding. However some have heater elements stuck on the rear of the gass.

IIRC, there is a small section of rubber hose that COULD be clamped, but I would'nt personally risk an air lock. It's also extremely quick to strip the respective parts while its connected and resting on a block. The entire job took me less than 40 minutes, thats with coming in several times to look at the guidance pictures on this forum.

I'm told it's a female dog of a job :P

If you have a millers oil outlet near you, their XFE-PD is the right stuff to 505.01, at about

Related to willie wonka I beleive

Hmm, I never checked a manual g-box so can't help :blink: For anyone who might be tempted to yell "use the search" it seems to produce no results. I may have got this wrong :blink: but the search feature of this forum seems to be quite restrictive? On most forums you get wider options like "last 30 days" "older" etc...

Up date :D After putting a full litre of fluid in and test driving when fully cold in three stages of about one third of a litre, things had improved to the point where I felt it's worth checking the level properly instead of risking an overfill. There was now only a very rare slip at full cold. 4~5 litre's of fluid came out of the Level plug. So much so that I thought it must be the wrong plug I'd tried :D So I undid t'other one and emptied the gearbox, total fluid removed about 8 litre's. Took the opportunity to check the fluid for debri - nothing. Slightly blackened in colour, but still has a hint of red. Can't even get half of it back in without it overflowing the level plug despite priming all the gears :( Got to let it get full cold again for a test drive.

Sorry John, I was referring to this bit of your post: "This morning, I forced the thermo-switch with a freezer spray (after eventually finding where it was from the TIS!! no...its not anywhere near the wipers on a MK2" My gal is a mk2. Dec 01 build and it's there on mine. I have no info about the MK2-MK2's :lol: