johnb80

It sounds like the fuel isn't being burned correctly, maybe you need to check that enough air is getting in, clogged air intake etc ? Kind Regards - John

Well it works on my 2003 115 TDi Ghia Auto.

Easy, open the bonnet for a few minute (this step may not be necessary), whilst holding down the trip reset, turn on the ignition. Job done. That'l be a quid to tsunami releif fund. :blink: Regards - John

You need to put it in writing, recorded delivery to the MD / Owner of the garage. State that you are rejecting this vehicle because of the following defects and list all of the defects. I would also add what the salesman said re the gearbox and therefore show it was a known fault. Do this a.s.a.p. If the fluid is low it needs to be investigated to find where it's gone. Regards - John

Hi, Remember you can edit your posts on here, if you make an error again just look at the top R.H. corner of the post and you will see an edit button. Good luck with the brake job. Regards - JB

This has come up before and 2 opinions resulted: One said it was okay because the Galaxy is 'over servoed' The other said it's not OK because most other Galaxy's don't do it. My view is that it is a problem and needs sorting. Did you slacken off the bleed nipples to push the pistons back ? Regards - John

Yep.

A tounge in cheek idea to blow your theory of TDI's being better on short journey's.......... isnt the cheap version of a tuneing chip a resistor stuck in the system to con the ECU that the engine is cold and hence it enriches the fuel mix to allow for this? so doesnt that mean when a TDI is cold it runs richer till the operating temp is reached and in doing so burns more fuel? and as it's a well known fact that they run cold and need the aux heater to boost the coolent temp and speed up the warm up period it burns even more fuel! :o Jeez guys how do you ever manage to get these supposedly high MPG figures you bandy around :lol: also with all this cold running short journey's I'm not supprised you worry about using the correct oil to help prevent engine wear ! :lol: It's very difficult to get a diesel to run rich, the more fuel you pour in the more power the engine develops. The cylinder has a full charge of air every time it's only the fuel content that determines the power until you approach full power, beyond that you then need more turbo boost to get more air then you can pour more fuel in. The resistor tuning mods are subject to much debate, my own personal view is that unless you change the turbo boost control you can do little to modify the real power output, you can move the apparent power further up the pedal but real power can only be gained by more air and more fuel. The superior diesels are not as choosy as the weakling petrol engines that need exact fuel / air mixtures or they poison everyone and use up all of the earths fuel supply in a millisecond :o

How about a faulty throttle sensor, i.e. intermittent, the ECU doesn't see the sensor, moving the throttle makes and breaks the connectin leading to an eventual start? Not sure of all the logic in the ECU on these, on the petrol Fords I have seen this sort of problem, especially if they go short circuit the ECU see's it as full throttle and goes into flooded start mode i.e. no injection! Regards - John

me too for sure, I bet you'll save petrol as well.

So you really are daddycool or daddyfrozen at the minute :D Does the engine get to it's normal running temp i.e. somewhere around half way on the temp guage ? If it does then you need to check for air locks to the heater matrix, blocked filters (if fitted) mixing flaps etc. My Gal is a diesel which doesn't have much in the way of waste heat but you can almost burn your feet with the heater. Regards - John

If you open the drivers door you can open the tailgate any time. Regards - John

Double check as in previous posts that the scuttle drains are clear and the air con drain is also clear. Is the carpet at the passenger side wet? if so do a search for this. Are you losing coolant very slowly? is their a strange sort of smell at times? (no jokes please) this can be a leaking heater matrix. If you have air recirc switched on, switch it off and make sure the recirc flap has opened. If all of the above is ok, switch on your aircon, turn up the heat and switch on air recirc. That should de-humidfy the cabin and hence clear the windows. On the other hand it sounds like an ideal passion waggon, usually takes ages to get the car steamed up :) Regards - John

Now we know who you are, it's Fred Elliot I say it's Fred Elliot, sez everything twice :)

Surely without airbags working you're more likely to have greater injuries during an accident. Accepting this it means they would have more to pay out for personal injuries, I don't beleive for one second an insurance company would let you get away with that one ! Regards - John

It WILL be an insurance issue though in the event of a mishap!

Well I'll leave this to the experts Seatkid and airconman, I will however state I'm pretty sure my Gal (Nove 2003) has a VW engine with it being 1.9 TDi 115, my compressor definately cycles at less than 2 deg ambient temp. Regards - John

Strangely it doesn't! What the climate control SHOULD do (not certain on the Gal but it does this on other fords) is recycle some of the air and it goes over the chilled evaporator which condenses the water out of the air, the air is then heated and goes back in the cabin. I checked on my Gal tonight, 1 deg C showing on the panel and the compressor was cycling as normal, the heater was also heating the air at the same time, soooooo, I think my theory is right. I have noticed before if you have ECON mode on, the windscreen takes for ever to demist on a cold morning. Regards - John

But it then would be unable to dehumidify ?

Surely it does work at the than 5 deg in order to reduce humidity in the cabin. On my Gal it certainly does this and is very noticeable when demisting the windscreen. Regards - John

Normally with the relays you get an audible indication. My system supplied by towsure needed a supply to it (taken from the socket in the boot) and all rear lights went through this relay unit. Apparently on the Gal to stop the bulb failure being triggered it needs this setup. Regards - John

I would have thought that was water temp

Don't worry, it will be fine. Years ago before winter diesel, VW used to recommend upto 20% petrol to stop the diesel freezing. Regards - John

I suspect that either the oil pressure switch has gone open circuit or the wire has come off/got broken. The system knows the engine isn't running and therefore shouldn't have oil pressure hence the warning. My Gal does it if I start the engine when cold, switch off and switch on again before the oil pressure has died away. As soon as the oil pressure has gone the warning disappears. You could prove it by grounding the wire on the oil pressure switch (thats the no pressure condition) and then switch on. Regards - John

Electrics are easy, I did twin electrics myself, cables through the same grommet that the reversing sensors used. Route under the carpet to the nearside cubby hole (where you change the rear light bulbs). All relays installed in there, another piece of 7 core cable across the boot floor to the offside to pickup the right hand lights and the jobs done. I did the whole lot in 2 hours. The worst job is removing the bumper. Regards - JB