johnb80

But how would you know how much was left in your system? overfilling would be very, very expensive. Regards - JB

The biggest problem you will suffer if you don't destroy the electrics feeding it is the destruction of the air horns compressor. The compressors are not meant for a duty ratio like they will get in this application i.e. sounding for several minutes. It is also very likely to flatten your battery PDQ. Get an electronic siren, they're much more suitable, won't burn anything out and are still very VERY loud. (This is not me BTW) Regards - John

Sorry guys, I can't condone this sort of action and reaction, I'm very disappointed that this site should be degraded to this degree. I'm out of here, Byeeeeee John

When the clutch is pressed down it's still transmitting some drive to the gearbox. Usually caused by oil getting onto the clutch plates, bearing in the flywheel, actuating mechanism problem (bent arms, hydraulics, cable stretched etc) or out of adjustment clutch.

Does it go down the gears if you rev the engine up a bit i.e. to the sort of revs it will be doing when the clutch comes up in the gear youre trying to select. If it does it sounds a lot like clutch drag. Regards - John

Often the aftermarket exhausts are nowhere near as good as the originals. I had a Cosworth Scorpio estate and had an exhaust fitted at Crapfit and it was awful, they did try replacing the whole system twice and still it was no better. Finally I went to a Ford main dealer, they quoted and astronamical figure, through shear desperation I had it fitted and all was bliss again. I would be very tempted to ask if they have any better quality / stainless systems available, that would probably make the difference. The system fitted to my Cossy was a Bosal by the way, i would never have another one fitted from this company to any car. Regards - John

I used the Nokia Bluetooth without the display. All of the connections you need are on the back of the radio. I bought some cables that made it a plug in job, absolute doddle. Regards - JB

IIRC some of the others on here have stated that *some* petrol models also have the drive by wire. Regards - JB

I've done bluetooth on mine, dead easy, 20 minutes to install, all plugged ito the car speakers, no problem. The phone can be anywhere inside (or indeed outside but not too far away) the Galaxy, connects as soon as the ignition is on and diconnects on key removal. Regards - JB

I think it all depends if you have a drive by wire accelerator i.e. nop throttle cable. If you don't have a throttle cable then you can, if you do have a conventional throttle cable then you can't. Regards - John

I'm suprised you could afford to spare a penny Jb after all a pension doesnt go far now days! :o But you keep forgetting my wonderful fuel consumption gives me cash to spare, plenty of room inside the Gal for my zimmer frame and wheel chair :o

We should not mock the afflicted ! or should we???? Oh soddit, here goes: Here's comments from VR6 owners school reports:- "Most drink from the fountain of knowledge, he only gargled" "The lights are flashing, the gates are closed but the train ain't coming" "If he had one brain cell less, we'd have to water him twice per week" "If you offerred a penny for his thoughts, he'd have to give you change" No OFFENCE INTENDED :o - JB

We'll have to agree to differ on this one! If the single filament bulb was fitted it would make no difference lights on/off, you'd get the fault straight away in my humble opinion! If the bulb failure works on current sensing then having the side lights attached to it would double the normal current straight away, if it works on current balance then the same would still trigger the failure. No doubt hamster will get back to us and let us know. Regards - JB

This can be programmed with VAG COM, maybe the programming has become corrupt? Regards - JB

Sorry, don't agree with your logic, it wouldn't trigger bulb failure only when the lights are on ??? Taking the first situation the bulb the wrong way round, that can't be done due to offset pins but even if you did manage it you would get bulb failure straight away. In the second case, single filamenty bulb fitted into dual filament holder, again difficult due to offset pins, it would short the brake and tail light circuits together, I'm pretty sure this again would trigger the fault straight away. Regards - JB

It sounds very much like a head gasket problem. Find yourself a good independent VW outfit, you should get a good job done at a sensible price. Regards - JB

Replace the other brakelight bulb OR check the earth on the rear light clusters. I suspect what is happening is that when you don't have the lights on, the brake light is coming on and it's return to earth is via the sidelight circuit (back feeding). When you put the sidelights on that path is no longer available and you get the warning. Switch the sidelights on and get someone to press the brake pedal, my guess is that one side wont work as it should, this side has the bad earth. Often unplugging the cluster, a quick spray with WD40 and then connect/disconnect the plug a few times will solve the problem. Good Luck - John

Low brake pressure? how so? I thought brake pressure developed when you put your size 12's on the pedal. Is this some dealer b*llsh*t ? Regards - JB

Explain a little more.... what motion sensor? whats the problem?

A lot more fuel can be saved by not using the brakes! Sounds daft I know but it's amazing the difference if you drive around as if the brakes had failed, time roundabouts so that you don't have to stop, similar with traffic lights etc etc. When wifey drives my Gal, I get at least 10mpg more out of it than she does and our average speed is higher. Leave the aircon on, just learn to skip braking! Caio - JB

It would be interesting to measure the voltage between the battery -ve and the engine itself with heated screen on and heated screen off. The alternator light will glow when 0.6v or more appears here. Try temporarily putting a wire from battery -ve to the engine, also check all of the small -ve wires connected to the battery, a bad connection here will give similar problems. Excessive load would cause fuses to pop, not lights to glow. Caio - JB

It would be interesting to measure the voltage between the battery -ve and the engine itself with heated screen on and heated screen off. The alternator light will glow when 0.6v or more appears here. Try temporarily putting a wire from battery -ve to the engine, also check all of the small -ve wires connected to the battery, a bad connection here will give similar problems. Excessive load would cause fuses to pop, not lights to glow. Caio - JB

Remeber all those times when the hex heads became rounded and your skin became punctured?...... doesn't happen so much with torx It's true .... we do only remeber the good times :huh:

It's a little unfair your crtique of modern machinery. Think back to constantly adjust idle mixture to get good idle, adjust valve clearnces. Moving on to ignition adjusting timing, replacing points, rotor arm and distributor cap.... the list goes on. Then ytou could consider the fuel consumption the Cortina simply wouldn't hack it. If the Cortina had parts fitted incorrectly or indeed faulty then it too would give up the ghost, remember the camshaft? very prone to failure on the Pinto engined Cortina's. Your aircon compressor was either faulty or installed incorrectly, it's irrelevant how pissed off the dealer is, it will just have to be done again at his expense. Make sure (preferably witness) that the system is flushed to remove any swarf, debris etc. I personally would write to the dealer rejecting the vehicle and give them 7 days to rectify the faults. They should loan you a vehicle, make good their shoddy work and retun it to you. Regards - John

Are you sure it's behind the sump? All the engines I've ever worked on it's at the top end of the engine because it needs to connect to the air cleaner and the inlet manifold. Regards - John