johnb80

How much gas was lost? what rate did it lose it at? As far as I can see we don't know how much was lost, nor do we know the manufacture date of thius vehicle and thus we can't really make the assumptions to panic ? Regards - John

Most likely loss of gas, the high pressure line should be full of liquid when it comes up to the evaporator (inside bit), if it's short of gas it comes up as a gas and hence the hiss. The hissing sound is normal when a/c is first switched on because the gas needs to be collected from the low pressure side and compressed back into a liquid. Whilst I personally wouldn't use them, top up kits are available from many sources (ebay, halfrauds etc) and many people on here have used them with success. HTH Regards - John

I wouldn't, the only oil light on the KA is probably oil pressure not oil level in which case you would end up with a trashed engine. Regards - JB

Got to keep those message counts up and keep people on their toes :unsure: Regards - JB

If it cuts out after a minute or so running on gas, double check that the evaporator is getting hot. It should be plumbed in to the hot water circuit (usually tee'd into the heater hoses). If it's not hot the lpg will freeze it up as it turns from liquid to gas. Regards - JB

Due to the fact that fireman are often risking their lives they tend to know what presents danger to them (sort of self preservation technique), you don't have to be an electrician to know grabbing hold of overhead cables is going to hurt soooooo my views are confirmed by the guy that puts out fires when it all goes wrong and that's good enough for me. All i ask is that you guys driving round with bombs please stay a little further away from me, thankyou. I'll shut up on the subject now until next time B) Regards - JB

So you would be willing (or daft enough) to demonstrate this to us would yoy (by video link only please). A discussion with a fire officer has confirmed that him and the boys are very careful when lpg is involved, petrol too has it's moments but not as spectacular (his words) as lpg. When asked a straight forward question "Would you take your family out in an lpg powered car" his answer after a couple of milliseconds of consideration was a resounding NO. I have used lpg myself, I know all of the safety stories told by the suppliers, installers and other interested parties, yes it's cheap (even more so at the moment), environmentally friendly and good for engines BUT........ it's still a bomb under your car.

Absolute rubbish, try this simple test. Take a container with 4kg of petrol in it, light up an oxy acteylene torch and put the flame onto the tank and retire to a safe(ish) distance say, 30 feet. Observe the huge fireball. Now take a 4Kg propane cylinder and repeat the same test, from the same distance (if you dare). LPG will explode with devestation all around. Petrol is safer and Diesel even more so, no question.

You wont get insurance if you don't have the certificate for it. You would perhaps be quicker to get it down to a specialist to get it working and certified. Regards - JB

Methinks theyre trying to sell the idea........ I wonder if thats why theyre giving it such a positive light? The other point re multipoint / single point. The main loss of power with lpg is due to the slower flame front or rate of burn of lpg in relation to petrol, the timing needs to be advanced by a considerable amount, my 4.2 Range Rover had timing on petrol of 8deg BTDC and on gas 40 deg BTDC, this really made a huge difference to fuel consumption and performance. The other advantage of multipoint is that you don't have a manifold full of gas if it happens to backfire, when it does happen (only happened once to me) it's scary, petrol it's just a muted spit but gas...... people all started staring in my direction, cats and dogs were running for their lives and there was an erie silence for a few seconds. Final bit of advice, unless you do a lot of miles using lpg you will not get your money back (easier on bigger engines), consider the age of your car, add

I think my reply would be, stuff that, all these problems I'll reject the vehicle thankyou OR make me a better offer, in view of the problems give me the warranty free. Regards - JB

Yes you will get quicker warm up and the sound of a small jet turbine running underneath (great for confusing baseball hat wearing nova / corsa driving yobbo's). 3rd Temp is the outside air temp. Sounds like you have dual aircon if you have the roof vents. It was fitted on my 115 Ghia as an option I think. So far mine has coped very well. I leave the temp set at 21 most of the year and it's comfortable. I have on some very hot days set it down to 18 degrees and it seems to manage fine. Enjoy. 150 engine should be interesting, let us know how you get on. Regards - John

Mine has the standard fit HID's, it's on dipped beam only and you could do with Sungalsses at night for some of the reflective roadsigns, you will not be disappointed. Regards - JB

You have to remove the trim strips below the rear lights, from memory, theyre clipped in by small tabs at the top, bottom and ends. You have to lever them out with a thin blade (butter knife?), you must have courage and 'go for it', when you've got one off the other is much easier :rolleyes: Disconnect the reversing sensor wires if fitted, unbolt underneath and slide the bumper out. Regards - John

This has come up before, there have been comments that the galaxy is over servo'd and that this behaviour is normal. My view is that it ain't normal and something is wrong. Try clamping the hoses to the front wheels and see if the brake pedal is normal, if it is then release the clamps one at a time that will identify the corner with the problem. Did you slacken the bleed nipple when pushing back the piston? if not it's possible you may have damaged the master cylinder (some seals can flip over on some cars). Regards - John

I lifted the boot mat, used the same grommet that the parking sensor wires come into and routed the 7 core cable to the nearside rear light compartment (loads of room in there). I ran another 7 core cable from nearside to offside and then picked up all the connections needed. All of the relays were mounted in the nearside compartment. Fitting the towbar took about 45 minutes AFTER I got the trim under the rear lights off, the wiring took about 90 minutes, I did dual electrics on mine. Regards - JB

I'm not so sure....! I do feel that 2.4 children is a very genuine character, others however may not be.

You have every ground you need to reject the car, I would tell them in no uncertain terms that you do not want this car, get them to loan you a car until they find an acceptable replacement. Get in touch with trading standards and that will help them focus on helping you. Do not be intimidated by them, not sure how it happened etc etc is totally irrelevant, it HAS happened, they now have to sort it out and there's no reason why you should suffer any loss or hassle through someone elses incompetence. [RANT MODE OFF] Regards - JB

And todays lesson is how to spell lesson (Sorry, couldn't resist). :D

I agree it's up to them what they do, the only point I'm making (no offence to 2.4children) he's a new user, we know nothing about him, he could potentially have a stolen radio and the guys on here are falling over themselves to decode it. Now if it was vr6galaxy or Ivor E Tower or any of the well known ones on here - no problem - we know not give the code out to them :lol:

I have to say I'm a little concerned about the offers to give a radio code so freely. This guy who I'm sure is most likely to be genuine is a newbie on here requesting a radio code, you guys are falling over yourselves to help which is nice. It does somewhat devalue the security code theft prevention somewhat don't you think? Regards - JB

1 and 2 are probably related - turbo/maf/intercooler 3 Is not a fault this is how it works. It can't check the brake lights until you put your foot on the pedal, it goes out if both brake lights are ok. 4 CC Should NOT flash, this indicates a fault such as low gas or other (readable) fault codes. If you have just bought the car, send a recorded delivery letter stating that you are 'Rejecting this vehicle' and state the faults, give them 7 days to fix them. Regards - JB

Double check the relay connections, it's not unknown for the wiring to deteriorate behind the base. Typical dealer ripoff that sort of charge, wonder if they really did change the relay? Regards - John

Never knew such things were used on petrol, lpg yes but petrol not as far as I know. Usually the intermittent go / nogo is down to a relay (number 30 if my memory serves me correct). I'm sure some of the others will respond, have a dig around the relays, give em a tap with a screwdriver handle and see if that brings it back to life. Regards - John

Engine mount collapsed pulling the drive shaft(s) out? dunno if it can do this on the Gal but I do know it can happen on several other front wheel drive cars. Regards - JB