johnb80

The TDi's are drive by wire and it is known to cause problems like you are experiencing. Regards - John

Not sure if it's the same design as the 2.3 Scorpio Ultima, these are renown for cracked exhaust manifolds. Wifeys has had 2 manifolds, both cracked, last time I got the old one, heated it up to bright red then arc welded the crack up. So far this has survived, in fact longer than the new one! Regards - John

Pressures in the system will change with ambient temperature, it's a straight forward job to see if the switches are opening so that *shouldn't* confuse a decent auto electrician or Ford Dealer. I had a similar problem on a Renault Escrap and it was a de-ice sensor on the evaporator, the aircon would work once every day and the first time the de-ice sensor tripped that was the end of it. Regards - John

If anyone wants to connect up to my Gal to trace the light settings you're welcome. I'm located in Gainsborough, Lincolnshire. Regards - John

Mine does :(

Cam chain stretched / tensioner worn out / chain guides broken up would be my guess from what you have said. Regards - JB

How can you say that ? It all depends on how / where the gas was lost. The best way would have been to check if any system pressure was left BEFORE topping up. If there was pressure then very likely there would not be any air, if no system pressure it's quite likely that air would be in there with moisture which would equal disaster for the aircon components. Regards - John

There is an inbetween, the cambelt gets so slack it jumps a tooth, you then get reduced performance until it's replaced or it snaps. Regards - JB

Try disconnecting the EGR valve (Exhaust gas recirculation). This can give problems at light throttle openings. Regards - JB

Are you sure the calipers are sliding freely? it's possible that the caliper is not sliding and applying pressure to the brakes is bending the discs. A quick diagnostic is to clamp off the flexible hoses and see if the pedal is then firm. If it is, release the hoses in turn and see if it goes spongy, you have then identified the wheel with the problem. Regards - John

I thought the connections for the cruise were available near the steering column and thus no need to dig so deep? Regards - JB

I've had my Galaxy for 21 months now. It has been very reliable only being let down by a dead battery. Around town I ALWAYS get 40+ mpg and have regularly seen 50+ on longer journeys. I would have another galaxy but would prefer something with a little more space and one that the seats will fold down and be stored onboard (they're bloody heavy and awkward to handle and store). From every other aspect the Gal is brilliant, plenty of power, frugal on fuel, easy to drive and comfortable. Regards - John

NO When cold the lambda is ignored for about 60 seconds and the engine runs on a fuel map in open loop, IF the lambda was slow at warming up or slow switching this could result in a weak mixture and thus hesitation. When the engine warms up the switching usually gets faster and fuel trims smaller and hence my suggestion. If it were plug leads I would agree with you if it coincided with damp mornings BUT the current weather we've had (until the last two days) has been anything but damp. Just my humble view, easier to replace ignition leads and plugs first I suppose. Regards - JB

O2 sensor and EGR are other possibilities but plugs and leads first.

Never listen to ignition leads, they can give you real ear ache. I would have thought ignition leads would give problems when load on the engine is increased, the fact that this is mostly when cold and pulling away below 2000 rpm and the age of the vehicle would point me towards mixture and thus the oxygen sensor. Of course you can expect miniscule fuel consumption if you get the same brand of leads as delboyt so it may be worth a try first <_<

Lambda / O2 sensor in the exhaust getting lazy, I think in this system it's output is ignored for 60 seconds by which time it should have reached operating temp and be giving meaningful readings. Regards - John

My Gal stands on the drive often for 2 weeks unused and then gets used for Sat and Sun. I have had no problems at all, winter or summer with this modus operandi. JB

I seem to recall someone on ebay was breaking one, his advert asked for people to email him. Regards - JB

The flywheel wont make it misfire, when you say on the motorway the speed drops away to 60 do you mean the misfire is intermittent? If it is I would double check fuel supply, pumps filters etc, also check for water in the fuel filter. Regards - JB

It's a special technique - you need the patience of a sait and the persistance of a mother-in-law ! From memory they slide backwards to unhook and you simply have to have courage and go for it. I used a very large flat piece of plastic 12 to 15mm across and levered at the front edge using a clothe to protect the paint work. I then used a thin blade to release the clips further back (push them inwards) to release the cover. The second side was much easier and I removed it in sort of less than a minute (no it didn't snap). Regards - John

Glad you got sorted without too much expense and hopefully not too many sleepless nights of worry.

It's easy, you will be so much more relaxed with aircon on, your driving won't be as aggresive. To aid the situation further, drive as if your brakes arn't working, aircon uses a lot less than using the brake pedal. Chill out - enjoy! Regards - JB

Sorry Seatkid, missed that one, full my self impotence

Check the bulb in the battery charge indicator. The bulb is part of the circuit that starts the charging process. Another quick test is to rev the engine to the red line momentarily this usually will kick start the charging process and it will then continue until the next time you switch off. Try the rev test first and measure the battery voltage after to see if it's charging if it does then you have a duff bulb / wiring / or possibly the alternator control unit. Regards - JB

Engine stabiliser / engine mount. Regards - JB