johnb80

If thats the case I stand corrected ! All the other ones I've been involved with, short to the block = max temp, open circuit = cold. Regards - JB

Nah, it's all them rocket things that keep going up and all them phone wave things that travel through the air, they're microwaves so make more phonecalls the world gets warmer <_<

And 'they' said it last year and the year before that and the year before that etc etc. Who are 'they' one wonders <_<

I would have thought it would need to be the opposite of high resistance to make it read high.... super conductor cabling perhaps ? Regards - JB

My journey to work is 2 miles, 30 & 40 limits. This morning the water temp was at ione quarter i.e. halfway up towards 90 deg when I got to work. Aux heater was on full bore, nice turbine sound winding down as I left my car. Regards - JB

Make the dealer fix it, if they damage it, they fix that too. Regards - JB

What makes you think there's a problem? It doesn't matter if the rad is cold it DOES matter if the engine overheats. Mine runs at a constant 90 deg winter / summer, fast / slow. I checked it yesterday having driven 11 miles and the radiator was stone cold, top hose hot as you describe. I would think that 99% of the heat is going to the cabin, the thermostat is doing it's job i.e. closing to restrict the flow to keep the engine temp up. I have also tried leaving mine ticking over before and without the aux heater running it never produces enough heat to warm up. I would be very tempted to take it for a drive keeping close to home and watch the guage. Regards - John

Bang on 90 deg, Regards - JB

Nah, come on be more sporting you have to give the weakling petrols a chance. Obviously these petrol heads like stirring that stick, shoving the needle to the redline, white nuckles on the wheel, throwing their passengers around to get to the next petrol station first. Get real you lot, just how long do you spend accelerating ? 8 maybe 10 seconds ? wow you might just have got there a whole second quicker just think how satisfying that is......... whilst you're at the pumps refuelling as we drive by 15 seconds later waving <_< To me there are only 2 REAL choices the VR6 for out and out performance but again the same statements apply or Diesel for the superb economy which can't be denied. Regards - JB

It will never happen, too much of our infrastucture relies on diesel i.e. buses, lorries etc. If the duty goes up inflation would rapidly follow and the government would not want that. Re petrol / diesel debat, you are forgetting that the 2.3 and the 115 diesel are similar from a power point of view whereas your comparison the V6 should be shed loads better. With diesel it takes a while to get used to not revving it, the performance is all low down, if redlining through the gears you're not running at it's best. I usually manually change mine down to 4th to prevent kickdown if I want a rapid overtake, normally though there's enough go without kicking down and the manual change isn't needed. Regards - JB

Clearly you are very out of date, take a look at the performance figures especially 31 to 62 mph in top gear and you will see just how well modern diesels perform. Turbolag just doesn't exist any more to any noticeable degree. Comparing 2.3 / diesel MPG @ 56mph 36.2 / 51.4 31 to 62mph 13.5 / 12.9 (Yes oil burner wins and Petrol in 5th, diesel in 6th) 0 to 62mph 12.7 / 12.8 only 0.1 seconds slower. Regards - JB

Pah! So slow..... Now this is fast acceleration http://www.grouchymedia.com/other_media/ma...Ride_sm.wmv.zip It's still fast enough to put a very silly grin all over my face :ph34r: Nice video and yep, I wouldn't mind a sortie in one onf those, not too sure about a deck landing though :lol: it's a bugger if you miss and end up in the drink, the ship runs over you! Regards - JBeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Mine were affected by the towbar fitting until I bent the socket mounting plate inwards towards the bumper, now theyre fine. I also have to leave off the plastic cover on the sockets (rubber boot type). Regards - John

I have flown one once before and I can assure you the throttle is pretty effective. When slammed into the instrument panel it hits 60 knots in about 5 seconds but then in the blink of an eye youre at 90 knots, rotating, brakes on wheels up and flaps retracting ready for the fun to begin. Nowhere near as good as a hawk but not bad #8o) The forcast for Saturday looks good so..... if the stick breaks off see ya guys, 115 TDi for sale, 20,000 on the clock, xenons, Clarion Sat Nav (very nice), Black, Mint. If it doesn't break off...... I'll be back :ph34r: Regards - JB

Only 2 possible causes spring to mind, one the battery contacts in the key are dodgy or the contacts for the lock / unlock buttons are dodgy. Not sure on the Gal but on my Range Rover if the key buttons got operated 33 times whilst out of range of the car the 'code skipping' became out of sync with the car until it had been unlocked with a key. The codes transmitted change every time so lowlifes with a scanner can't grab your code. Hope this helps - JB

The fact that the bores have been honed will mean that the glaze has been removed so forget the wirewool (you wern't going to take it apart again anyway were you). It will take time for the rings and the bores to bed in together, do not give it too much right foot to start with, freely revving and lightly loaded. The machining that has taken place will not be of the same standard as when new so go carefully. When you do start to use the throttle do it for very brief periods and gradually build it up. You should expect the oil useage to decrease as the miles build up. Regards - John

How about a price for the whole lot then? Give us an idea? Regards - John

Dunno, couldn't have been difficult to do, a bit like I predict it's going to get dark tonight or I predict that people will buy lots of gifts in December or even I predict VR6GALAXY is having a good time :(

Have you checked the obvious i.e. level of power steering fluid ? Regards - John

Grab hold of the front wheels and try to wobble them top, bottom, front, rear and see if there's any noticeable freeplay, it may be worthwhile driving the front wheels onto some old, no longer glossy magazines (playboy, FHM :( ) this will enable the wheels to move easier. Jacking up the front end may not show up the problem because the suspension joints wont be in their normal operating positions. There are a few known weaknesses in teh Gal i.e. drop links but not sure if they could be responsible for the symptoms you describe. Regards - John

Congratulations, you've won this years star prize for the first real aux heater question. :lol: You get 2 free drinks at the virtual bar - enjoy

Not that I've heard of....... The only problem I've known about is when ejection seats have been left in. The one I'm flying MK IV has had them removed so that won't be an issue. I have flown in a Hawk with them enabled and did the training for the use of but thats another story. The other thing of course the JP can run on diesel, another plus point for diesel, bet VR6's gal can't keep up with this oil burner #8o)

No problem at all, not bothered, wouldn't swap you at all. Next Saturday I'M going to be flying a Jet Provost for a couple of hours ! 8 years since I've flown full size and for various reasons I now have the use of a JP with only a safety pilot alongside me so I can 'G' myself to death (not literally) but I will be testing the airframe a little once I get back into it. Enjoy yourself my friend and lets hope we are both here Saturday night to tell the tale :lol: Regards - JB

Here it is from the Customs and Excise site: "In all cases, your vehicle (or engine) may be seized and forfeited. The penalty and duty rebate may be secured as part of the restoration amount for the seized vehicle or by the issue of a fixed civil penalty and Notice of Assessment. Criminal action may be taken, and you can be fined an unlimited amount or you may be imprisoned for up to seven years, or both." Powers of Customs and Excise officers (referred to in paragraph 3.3) Customs and Excise are allowed by law to: examine any vehicle and any oil in or on it and to inspect, test or sample any oil in the fuel supply; require vehicle owners or anyone in charge of a vehicle to open or cause to be opened the fuel tank or other source of the fuel supply so that the fuel can be located and inspected, tested or sampled. If there is anything in the supply which might hinder this, it must be removed; require anyone in charge of a vehicle to produce any books or documents relating to the vehicle or to oil carried on it and which are carried by that person or on the vehicle; enter and inspect any premises (except private dwelling houses) and inspect, test and sample any oil on the premises, whether in a vehicle or elsewhere. In entering the premises, an officer may bring with him any vehicle used for carrying out official duties; require the occupier of premises or the person in charge of them to give facilities to inspect, test or sample oil on the premises or oil in the fuel supply of vehicles on the premises, irrespective of whether the oil or the vehicle belongs to that person or someone else; and require anyone concerned with the sale, purchase or disposal of any oil to produce on demand any relevant books or documents" I wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of this one! Regards - JB

I think you'll find it's confiscated and crushed just like the car tax dodgers. Regards - JB