Neils TDi again

Have had and now i have the same again it defo the CV. it can fail completely so be careful.

If you find the vibration appears when under load and not when at cruising then the usual suspect would be the CV joint as they tend to move out of centre when loaded, the bearings nromally keep them fairly true but if there is any wear in them then they are forced out of balance by the loading. Sounds like a replacement jobbie, they are available as seprate units from the shafts, GSF or EuroParts tend to stock them fairly cheaply.

smoke on start up, every time,white smoke.and def from exhaust. This sounds very much like unburnt fuel possibly due to low compression ratio but I would start by checking the pre-heat and running heat of the glowplugs, as you know to meet emission regulations the glowplugs continue to aid burning fuel until the entire engine reaches the correct running conditions it may be hte relay is dropping our before the engine is running properly. It is a pulsed delivery of votage to reduce the temperature of the plugs gradually as the engine temp increases. To test it you need to connect a volt meter to the plugs and keep it connected during the first 5 minutes of running if its a digital meter then you will see a graduall reduction from 12v to 0 if its an analogue meter then the needle will bounce up and down a bit until it stops at zero when the engine is up to temperature. It spossible the temperature sender is innaccurate giving this as as result of thinking the engine is already hot. sounds like a bag of ball bearings on acid on start up from cold.once warm shes ok but still sounds rough but metallic noise gone. The Hydraulic cups that operate the valves may be worn and as such the lack of retained oil will cause this kind of noise and unfortunately it will only get worse, a full oil flush and fresh oil and filters my reduce it somewhat. It may also help to turn the engine over on the key before applying the accelrator when starting from cold to allow some oil pressure ot be built up before the engine starts. one of the belts is jumping i think...tensioner maybe? The fan belt tensioner on the MK1 TDi has a habit of wearing through the casting and it rattles like a nutter on speed. Replacing it is fairly straight forward although the alternater and steering pump and air compressor will need to be removed. New I think the cost new was around 100 quid but I am sure now there are so many in the scrappies you should be able to get hold of one cheaper. injectors need a clean maybe? is it a job i can do myself? Proprietry injector cleaner in the fuel will help here. hope this helps a bit.

You can obtain themain impellor and front face casting as a replacement part and then it is not nec to remove the belt I do belive tho it is an Audi part number as it was several years ago i did mine and I did not remove the belt just the covers. Best of luck

1. drivers door wont lock, but will unlock.When locking on drivers door, no doors lock, but unlocking on drivers door, all doors unlock.When locking on passenger door, all doors bar drivers lock, and they all unlock on passengers side. I lock the drivers door from the inside and scoot across and get out the passenger side then lock the car. The central locking module in the drivers door is clearly at fault local scrappy will have one. the loose bit is possibly the wiring and as you know that may actually be the real fault in the door pillar and harness. 2. The door cards need sorting, someone obviously had a go at attempting to fix the lock problem and door card not back on properly and i can hear something loose inside the door, like a wire/connection. A million little yellow clips are only a couple of quid even from the stealers but you may also want a hot glue gun to put the extension points back on the card itself. 3. Windscreen, crack in it.Not MOT failiure though. OMG did that little scroat just chuck a stone at my windscreen ? 4.fan belt? was replaced 6 months ago, but the car is very umm..loud on tickover, not normal sounding on tickover, like an additional noise. The spring tensioner on the early 90 and 110 engine tend to "eat" through the mounting points on the casting and become very noisy, quite expensive but again probably in a scrappy somewhere, the same as the Golf and the passat engine in the belt tensioner respect. 5. She really doesnt like to go above 75mph, she kinda gets like a flat spot, when i have the accelerator flat to the floor at this speed, so i ease back on the lead foot and its like it kicks in again for a bit, then flattens again, i can get her to umm* cough* useing this method at a struggle. This could be either the vanes sticking in the turbo, MAF fault, pedal sensor fault or many others a VAG diagnosis would be useful for this one. 6. passenger side visor, the clasp bit is broke that is attached to the roof. Scrappy 7. Various scratches/dents need sorting out. Scrapper ! 8. Bumpers need sorting out, reattaching properly. You know all about front bumpers already ! 9. Very flat sills need sorting and protecting to prevent further rusting. Hammerite is probably the best solution in the short term. 10. When i accelerate in either 4/5th gear, it sounds like there is a fan that comes on under the bonnet, passenger side, it stops if i take foot off the accelerator.Not hindering the performance at all Turbo ? 11.Her top speed on the dash, is only 120mph!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jeeze.Slow.LOL. Not a MKII then Maz 13, forgot.Reversing lights aint working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have you checked the bulbs, also if the clutch has been changed have they re-connected the wiring ? Good Luck and PS I have half a MKI front lower skirt in black plastic if you want it. :22: :22:

Adrian its like a tardis when you open the door and its like a black, whole not only does everything fit in it at once, the money in your pocket leaps into the fuel tank and all your possessions end up on the back seat......oops too much information. Im off to find a dark parking space so I can sleep.

Im there too but I got to keep both the Beemer and the Gal. However I do also have (running looking for a hiding place) a Landrover Discovery, and that just eats all the things that wont fit in the Galaxy.

Sounds very much like a turbo vane fault, have you replaced the turbo ? You have rebuilt the engine but you havent said why ? If the rebuild was due to a belt failure and hence the collision of the valves to pistons have any of the displaced parts been blown into the exhaust ? Any thing in the original fault that may have led to the turbo may have a bearing on it also if the valve lifters were not fully loaded with oil when the engine fired up first time you may have damaged them already, fill with oil and turn engine over by hand until oil pressure is measurable before trying to start can prevent this type of premature failure.

Not sure of the age or model of the Gal you refer to but drive shaft failure is relatively common and results in not only noise but an out of balance and vibration when driving, easily replaced but can be expensive. The water pump is normally just seized by dirt but still needs to be replaced. Good Luck and Welcome to the forum

Mumof4 You seem to have missed the point "block exemption" is the motor industries legislation to prevent monopolies in service and parts supplies, it basically legalised the aftermarket spares that are now normal (motorpart, Quinton Hazell and the like) it also prevents any dealer from restricting access to spares or service, but the H&S issues are a loophole that many are using to make it more difficult to do exactly as you did which is to do it yourself or indeed get a local (reasonably priced) mechanic to do it for you.

Wheel imbalance, tyres underinflated, or indeed a failing CV joint would all give the wobble at speed.

The Block exemption regualtions brought in in Europe during 2003 (I think) prevents any manufacturer from prohibiting servicing or maintaining any of their vehicles by the prohibition of sales of parts or training in a manner that would be seen to be controlling the market. In other words they cannot refuse to sell parts or indeed they have to make available training to fit those parts to suitably qualified technicians or they are breaking the european block exemption regulations. As for a group hug I had on once but it walked off in a huff. And Maz, someone lost a ring somewhere in the last group hug you organised. :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: :angry2:

On an S plate the vehicle had global closure on the lock itself eg if you use the key in the door and hold it more than 0.5 secs in the open position the windows etc will open and close the same way. I agree that it would appear that the global opening and closing has been disabled on the remote function not just for safety reasons as the reversing windows should prevent harm but because if you sat on your keys in the pub not only could the doors be unlocked all the windows and sunroof can be opened and you may get a wet car !

to open the door you need to release the central locking motor from the door lock inside the door by the door pillar. Once released you will be able to operate the internal handle to open the door. The cause is that the wiring has probably broken with the "deadlock" system set, the remote key can lock or "double lock" the doors and this is effectively a deadlock to prevent any theif from using the door once they have gained entry to the vehicle through a window or something.

Bump

We arent having problems any more the new bits come up easy now. Etc. has only on C by the way and I will run and hide now.....

Do you mean the throttle pedal sensor ? If so thats sealed as well, but a few minutes pressing the pedal fully to the floor repeatedly will help clean the tracks

Two reasons for the backing off of the window as its a safety feature when too much current is absorbed by the motor. 1 is to clean the glass and sealant rubbers the other is to check the drive cables are not worn or stretched. Its to stop hands being severed by the window as it closes etc.

As for suddenloss of power during overtaking or hard acceleration you may find you have a dirty throttle pedal potentiometer this causes a mismatch error and limits engine performance until the ignition is cycled and the ECU can re-establish continuity to the throttle pedal position sensor. it has two resitive tracks to safely determine the position of the pedal and hence the amount of acceleration that is required. If one track is dirty in an area which is sledom used (full down on the pedal) then it will record it as a first trip error and limit the performance in case it is a reall error, by several full foot down applications you may indeed cleanb enough off the track to remove the error however the replacement is only a few quid and is a sensible solution.

Hey where did the other 249 posts go off this thread ?

Any warnings illuminated that may indicate an SRS failure or Fuel reset required ? Might be worth disconnecting the battery for about an hour then trying it again (make sure you have all your codes first).

How about one of you mods make a few subtle changes and see if she notices.. You can always delete this thread when your done and she woll never know. Ha ha games, mice and cats come to mind :lol: :)

A quick thing to try would be to remove the alternator belt then see if the noise reduces as the tensioner on the 110 engine has a habit of wearing through the bushes in the casting and then the engine sounds very very noisy but it is actually the belt tensioner and not the mechanicals of the engine.

The fuse is a link bolted into the fuse box and if the bolt is corroded or not itghtened correctly it will "melt" the fuse rather than blow it. Clean all the bolts before fitting the new fuse and it should be ok or you have a stuck load balancing relay (R30)

Try GSF they can identify the exact part from your VIN and its about 60% cheaper than the stealers N