Neils TDi again

Weeks Days Hours Minutes Seconds Total hours 75.........5.......1........38..........1.........12720.63376 And still going and i have to say i agree with nick27 not looked back OK so i put on weight but i can deal with that, go on give it up we can all do it.

It could be the accelrator position sensor losing its knowledge of the pedal position. When it happens stop switch off wait 30 secs and try again. Does the glow plug lamp flash when this happens.?

For your morning walk try Old Sarum castle on the Amesbury road out of Sailisbury, wonderful views and free parking for as long as you want. If you look in the pics thread the one of the cathedral spire under a wooden bridge was taken there. Have a great journey and hope its a safe one.

Variable geometry turbos are very capable of performing at the limit of the red line however as previously said the maintenance is paramount. Many Nissan vehicles which employ the same manufacturers turbo have suffered loss of blades after prolonged "expressed driving" and have been subject to recall and repair maybe this is a future for ours ?

Its a top end option and the Zetec in its normal form is a mid range option pack. It can be specced up on original order but many were provide for the fleet market with very little or no optional extras fitted.

if you have ISO connectors on the Gal it should either be a direct slot and play into the back of the 6000 unit or an adaptor cable will be available from a car ICE retailer. Dont be tempted to cut and join there should be no need most adaptors are available at a reasonable price

Sounds like you may have a MAF problem if it happens again stop and pull the plug off it and see if the power returns if so it may be time to buy a new one (well have it replaced under warranty if the will). Good luck and welcome

Sounds like the power steering belt is missing....!

Sounds like it could be a dodgy amplifier have you had them checked or the wiring to them as they do tend to become brittle. There is a write up in the FAQs I believe.

Heres one or two from me

IIRC the front lower block just in front of the gearbox bolts. I am at work so no TIS but if no-one comes along before hand I will look when I get home.

Yes another vacuum line runs from the T to the brake servo also the actuator may be leaking on the side of the turbo or indeed the vacuum valve on the bulkhead which works on a duty cycle waveform to regulate the vacuum to the turbo geometry. Listen under the bonnet as some one applies a rising rev range from the pedal.

A quick search should reveal this in detail many posts have been made, yes you can get the selector out without dropping the box but you have to have small hands and patience ! Have a search round and see what marvels the forum reveals.

Sounds like hte selector has parted from the top shaft, IIRC the same happens on the early TDi boxes and if you have sheared the location bolt off then its likely to be a gearbox out and refurb job or at least the removal and repair of the selector. It may have left the bolt floating in the gearbox so be careful

But this is one loveerrrrrly putty cat. 1CandyCoo.bmp

Cheers Girls come on you Guys join in then.

Yes you cant link to individual cats it has to be the page so just select Dino and give him Ten. Ta

Make a great couple the happiest in world and get Dino to the top of the list. This couple looked after one of my own queens while we were trying for a litter and were wonderfully kind to her. Vote now for Dino he is a relative of my own cats and is a great companion. Come on guys lets get Dino up to the top. Vote for Dino ;) ;) :D :D :D :D.

Bluish skies no rain but humid, I am sure I could actually shower in the humidity

In the mean time have a look at the top oil pipe to the turbo the seals do eventually leak and a mist of oil sprays up against the head and block. Eventually it become a fountain but it takes a while 230k on my last Mk1.

Not Sure on your vehicle if you put it in your signature then we will all know, but the fault is normally that the cast actuator arm onthe back of the tumbler or the lock has departed fromthe body of the lock, the parts including the spring that is now probably rattling around inside your door are all available from ford dealers but if your really unlucky then it may mean a new set of locks or just the driver door lock and a seperate key for it. IIRC there is a write up somewhere on the forum maybe NIkpv or Mumof4 can find it for you.

Check the small recess below the passenger seat for water there is the body control ECU in there and it gets waterlogged and the central locking and global close and door opening sensing all go crazy. If your lucky you will be able to remove it and leave it in a warm dry place for a while and it might start to work again or its a new one I am afraid.

It is probably the standard broken wire syndrome in the door as teh imobiliser has an indicator built into the door capping. Probably there is a bad earth on the ECU and the broken wire cause a short to earth which will "turn off" the engine but may have further effects on the immobiliser. Check the FAQs for door wiring and have a gander. O h and BTW welcome.

Sounds like you have a faulty brake light switch, it has two switches built in one for the ecu for CC and one for the brake lights input into the body control module. Try a new switch before it becomes a real safety issue. CC should always drop out if the brake or clutch is activated, on some models even sharp steering movements cause the CC to stop.

The bolt at the rear of the pump is currently holding the tension, if that comes loose the pump will be free to swing in towards the engine and slacken the belt. Neil