Neils TDi again

Changing the box treats the symptom the couse is the badly crimped and subsequently corroding cable end. Replace the cable it will happen again ifyou dont, I managed to strip sufficient and solder the crimped joint as well as crimping so it should be a good electrical connection this time. Just for interest the increased resistance as the copper/steel termination ring begin to corrode causes the heating and this in turn causes increased corrosion a mad cycle that ends up at around 1200'C and melts everything around it if your unlucky.

Have you checked the main fuse bus next to th ebattery if the main line from the alternator has burnt through the fuse and holder as is common then the alternator only outputs a minimal voltage with no current being drawn, this would also account for your total electrical failure when your battery fails to recieve any chanrge. I have had this in the last 48 hours so its fresh in my mind. Mumof4 had it on hers and several others have had the same experience.

Do a Search for aux heater and you will be amazed.

Having had the battery disconnected for such a prolonged period as to change the engine the ECU should have reset any variable parameters held so a remap/renew data would probably not help a performance remap however may bring improvements or indeed another engine requirement but thats a whole new discussion. Best left as is unless your having issues as the O2 sensor and knock sensor adjusts the timeing etc to accomodate differing calorific values of fuel.

Take note of her avatar "Im only here to annoy you" !!! :rolleyes: ;) ;)

If you lift the pedal with your foot do you get a full travel with pressure or is the first few inches with no pressure. If it is with full pressure and is always with pressure then the fault is the master cylinder if there is none or very little pressure and the pedal dosent return on its own its very likely the slave cylinder and the concentric one is very vunerable to this failure, also very vunerable to dirty fluid so regular changes would reduce the level of failure. Good luck with the change as it means the gearbox has to be removed as the concentric cylinder sits on the input shaft to the gearbox and this means the gearbox has to be removed to replace the cylinder.

Mongoose, your fault sounds very much like a drive shaft failure, or the interface in the differential in the gearbox. If you can get someone to do the same chack with the car on a ramp you will be able to see if the drive shaft has failed or if the drive atcually turns one wheel but not the other.

Gregers Its almost certain to be hte CV joint on the Puma simply reducing speed should relieve the vibration or turning a bend. Its likely to be the nearside as it has the most flexing when the steering is used to teh full lock. N

Just thought I had better pop back and let you all know its the dreaded broken wire syndrome. Soldered and sorted, it even effected the additonal Immob/alarm system i had fitted at purchase, earth wires are really hard to identify as they dont actually appear to do much but boy are they important.

Ok here they are, the symptoms as of yesterday at -3 degrees. (not sure if its related yet) No Central Locking. No Electric windows from dirvers door arm rest. Windows work on Key from the drivers door. Hazard lights operate when starting hte vehicle for three or four flashes. Hazard lights operate when accellerating. No Beeps buzzes or other noises although it has sounded like a rattle in the drivers door for a while. I think I may have the "broken wire syndrome" but would love any comments form those who have already experienced this phenominon. Could it be my main bus fuse burning ? T

Stick your vehicle details in your signature it will help us to help you

the imobiliser cuts the fuel so no feed check the ring on the ignition switch

One question; did you release the fluid when you pushed the caliper pistons back or did you push it back into the master cylinder. If you pushed it up into the master cylinder it may have reversed the seals and hence a soft pedal, or indeed it may have popped the seals in the ABS unit and the same would apply. Releasing the fluid through the bleed nipple is the way the pistons should be pushed back or this can happen everytime.

If you use the options at the top of the topic you can download the topic, the restriction is due to your new status and number of posts

The clamp plate is slotted and if you turn the plate over and then put the bolt through it is designed to clamp on a tapered shoulder, both types are within the design criteria.

I am in the same boat as Mike I travel 100 miles a day on the motorway and this week alone i have only just managed to skid to an almost halt as a Polish lorry pulls into the middle lane as a queue of traffic was passing alongside, I was less than 2 inches from the rear protection bar of his trailer as he moved out. I see this every day and am normally vigilant in overtaking foreign lorries but this was in heavy traffic at normal speeds the outside lane was fullas well as both middle and slow lanes. Why do we accept poor standards of driving safety from HGV drivers licensed outside our own conditions, should we only allow UK passed HGV licence holders to drive on UK roads.

Get on with it without a fuss !!!! Where did you dream that one up then ? Help I am lost ? Help My PC has a virus ! Help My new PC is too fast. Dont worry me now I have a hangover. I cant do that I have to drive the Veccy. All spring to mind :lol: ;) :D :31: :31:

But will there be enough room to fit them all in ?

It sounds like the throttle pedal sensor is worn and the ECU is losing contact with the resistance.

Broom Broom A very common failure and would possibly cause the misalignment when stationary and not when driving is the lower rear wishbone arm bushes being worn. This manifests as the steering wheel needing to be jogged to the left or right at the moment you start to brake, it remains that way until you stop but initially on acceleration it jogs back the other direction. Like many other bushes it is not always picked up on an alignment as it is a dynamic response to speed and loadings. if you get someone to stand and watch the wheel as you pass them and brake they will see the wheel move backwards in relation to the wheel arch, if this is occuring more on the offside of the vehicle then the nearside wheel will need to move to compensate for the movement in the offside geometry this would account for the wheel hitting the inner wing. The other allternatives are very frightening, worn steering rack, a loose steering rack or indeed a bent chassis leg. Hope its the bushes.

Done

The design of the efficient cooling system for summer operation but during our normal climate winters the engine fails to reach its optimum running temperature for emmisions and cabin comfort there fore an additional source is needed to remain within the EU legislation regarding emissions and for hte comfort of the rear passengers.

There has been reported incidents of selector assemblies siezing it may be as simple as this (although I believe the replacement cost to be about

england_rugby.bmp

The deisel ecu has a gradual decrees in the glow plug power it is no longer just on for start, the symptoms your describing in terms of bad starting and the bad idle then gradually improvement to running with white smoke would indicate the glow plugs are not being energised check the rail and relay for activity.