NikpV

was the loss of power when you were accelerating with the revs getting up to about 2.5k?

cheeky bugger ;):lol::blink:

what the water pump - extra

water pump impellor off its shaft - classic symptoms - removing the thermostat allows access to pump imellor to see if its spinning or firmly attached to shaft - overheating may have warped head but you may be lucky ;)

always found that running her up a hill tends to empahasise any difference - when testing the maf

how do you use it ?

well that was a pita - I managed to trap the o-ring when reassembling pump and so it leaked :angry: an enjoyabled coupe of hours pulling it all out. I cant remember how I managed to do this job before and put the original pipe clips back but I couldnt do it his time so replaced with jubilee clips. and the result... engine temp still fluctuates with load but never gets above 90. Cabin heater doesnt go cold at 90 (lovely and warm when below 90) but definitely is cooler. Couple of 15 min bursts at 80+ and no loss of coolant ????? but thats not conclusive. Any leak from the pump end seems to drip onto hot spots at the back of the engine - wonder if I've had a leak from here before ... but garage says its been pressure tested so I dont know

+1 would replace with a late mk2 model sharan or gal if I ever came into any money :(

does it catch then stop? how healthy is the cranking?

well to answer my own question you CAN undo the 4 screws and take the impeller/motor out separately - one screw is a bugger and has to be done blind but it did save buggering about with the pipe clips - motor is re-brushed and back in the car but its too dark for any more tonight - will finish and test tomorrow.

thing is newbies finding the forum are not lurkers anymore just ask first instaed of reading the threads - you on chemo? or radio or in remission? - what type of Ig are you producing ?

yes - worked everytime I checked it - but I noticed yesterday that there was no afterun :lol: wondering whether to run an indicator led into the central compartment to monitor it in future :lol::rolleyes::lol::rolleyes:

clear the codes first then test and look for new codes :lol:

thanks for that Chris :-) BUGGER having said that the after-run pump was working its now stopped oh well best get that sorted first - now to find some brushes - at least its a job I've done before :lol: anybody had any sucess undoing the 4 screws and leaving the impellor section in the car - last time it was all out, and stupidly I put the original pipe clips back on :lol:

sorry to hear that :lol:

what car year/model

ford TIS (try fleabay) is your best bet - no haynes manual for the mk2

seized alternator pully ????? its in the faq somewhere but here it is

a picture would help :-)

When I replaced one it just started working - no codes to clear - like a lot of things on the gal it was a while ago :-)

on an s-max the first code was related to a multiplug being disconnected from the geabox I seem to recall reading somewhere are these from a galaxy?

dont think you can check the levels other than fill up at the correct temp until it starts to flow out See here or look at item3 IIRC on the FAQ

Some pictures from 2.3 version here

how could this be diagnosed ?