zorgman

just found a simple fault with the sunroof unit, if you press buttons and its just clicking check the small cover where you insert the allan key for manual winding as this cover is linked to a switch inside. simply close it up and all should be well, mine was wide open and stripped the wole unit down to find out about this.

mine was the same after getting tracking done at a micky mouse garage. got it 4 wheel laser tracked and all is now well, your steering seems as tho its pulling to left when driving and as you say doesnt seem to centralize is a classic case of tracking.

new about the sharan etc was meaning like a golf, passat etc

hi found out that the rack spindle is bent this is the bit that comes off the ram and connects to the track rod end, what rack vdub or audi does the gal use please as its the nearside which ive just put a new track rod end on

well its the cat getting chopped wed see if that works, i thought that the o2 sensor is pulsed and that mine at 0.2 upto 0.8 was fine as its constantly pulsing up and down, the fuel loop is ok for it. one thing just noticed is that is 2deg c here and intake temp says its 19deg c so changing that morrow as well just in case.

good clean ivs changed that as tickover was at 3000rpm its now rock sold at 975rpm, tps shows as reading proper sits at 16.9% at tickover and responds to throttle going up and down. have cleaned everything that can get gummed up ie maf, egr etc so ive ruled that lot out. will recheck all the hoses. one thing to mention car is very thirsty ie

heres a tale of beware for you. dont fall into the trap of if its on ebay its cheaper its not the case always. the overhead console on mine was missing so had a look on ebay to get prices and got them from

right the sorry tale goes on with my 2.0L galaxy heres the list and readings off scanmaster. new leads and plugs, oil filters etc, o2 sensor pulsing nice between .08 and 0.8 so i assume thats ok maf showing 3gs increases when reved, air temp ok water temp ok tp sensor ok. infact not one fault code showing and all the sensors are reading fine going up and down etc. heres the fault lack of power the odd jerk of engine ie misfire when accelarating in 5th, a flat spot from idle pulling away and one ive been thinking about may be a problem. when driving along and changing up or down gear the engine ""hangs"" at the same rpm then slowly drops is that normal. the only thing ive got left is the actual exhaust system as ive swapped out off a known good source all the sensors etc. egr valves fine all the vac line replaced cleaned every thing in sight so im now stuck help me please or the cars going and getting another xantia 1.9td

""that would be because you only have one! mounted in the down pipe just before the cat, is it an OE sensor or a universal one?"" its a genuine article wonder why the second lambda is shown as your right of course theres only one on the 2.0l before the cat as an update just been out for a test drive in her and noticed that from tickover upto 2000rpm its got power tho a flat spot is there pulling away. the misfire comes in at 2000 rpm and goes at 2800rpm but boy is it hard work, a slope that i use to test cars guts and power it needed 3rd gear to keep at 30mph, xantia 5th gear, escort 5th, frontera 2.3td 5th, no guts at all in her, at a steady 70mph i floored her and well nothing happened it sloooooooowly started to increase speed. also noticed that when it misfires the taco bounces about. im not expecting a rocket ship but this thing is driving me nuts due to its lack of power its all suck and no go and boy is it thirsty on juice

hi all. well on the last lap now with this once wreck of a car. couple things left to do on it ie: touch up paintwork and get tracking done. Heres the bit im stuck with its got no grunt rice pudding and skin come to mind, listed below is what ive done. cleaned maf reading 3gals sec lambda reads 0.8v or thereabouts new airfilter, oil + filter, new leads + spark plugs. bosch and ngk throttle position 18% egr valve works perfect had it off, the vac controller was leaking but replaced that scantool shows second lambda at 1.275v but i cant find it anywhere failed on emmissions so now stuck checked and only code is p1414 i know thats the daft pump thingy my xantia 1.9td that i had would rip the car to shreds so theres summit wrong as it feels im driving with brakes on im now stuck cant think of anything else to go for as its got me stumped. read and reread all the threads on this subject as well its still got its misfire it just seems to hold back and for a 2.0L i would expect it to go a bit better ie: 0-60 loadsa secs. so come on techies what do you think to go for next. laurie

hi anyone out there with the 2.0l 1996 galaxy could have a look at thier maf and tell me the numbers thats on it please. been checking the 6 units ive got all work and show flow etc but still got no power and a misfire above 2000rpm which im putting down to maf and ecu in limp mode. must say outa all the cars ive had the galaxy build and interior construction is not a patch on the xantias that i ran for 4 years but had to change due to back problems. still got loadsa faults to sort out ie why the number 2 o2 sensor stays at 1.275v and i cant clear the egr sensor fault if i knew how id rip the bugger off. electrical faults left are rear wiper and heated screen dead rear power sockets dead. front fag lighter dead. sure this is a main loom fault as fuses relays are ok and theres no feeds at all back end. some of the stuff ive learnt about gals are crap build quality uncomfortabe seats with no side support but hey ho at

UPDATE well what an easy job. take unit off by releasing the clip take off the 2 unions. lock in vice take off the top by unscrewing. give all threads a good clean, change the rubber o ring seal reassamble use ba bit blue locking compound tighten up and put back on in reverse order. bleed brakes job done full pedal

got a leak off the brakes compensator which is located just under sill middle of car. anybody rebuilt one of theses or are they a sealed unit, better still are they used on any other ford that i can get one off. got nearly zero brakes and pumping pedal hardish then goes to the floor

vag-com only does the airbag light not sure about abs. freescan using the pwm or elm interface talks to the engine thats what im using

what a simple fault that is and a method for you to try. when u turn key to start engine u say a relay clicks, if so then the coil circuit for relay is fine, locate that relay by using pull the relay to it dont click, now the on that relay theres a wire comes off the ign live out to that relay this in turn will go down to the soloniod of the starter that is where all the heavy duty work is done, i find the way that it works wierd unless there some ort of immobilstion going on hence the use of the relay as theres no point in having a relay power a relay. get yourself a test lamp ie old indicator bulb etc one side to ground test the ulb works connect to +ve of battery,. now onto traceing that relay that u heard click theres 4 connectors on it ground = gnd or battery negative - 12v battery + 12v battery to starter + 12v off the ign switch + check to see if you have a constant 12v there on relay plate where the relay plugs in. mark it down on paper so u no which is which. get someone to try to start ngine and tell them to keep key turned and locate the 2nd 12v tell him to leave go of key now youve got the feed and switch supplys . last one to do now is find the gnd connector, put one side of the bulb to 12v posite and out of the 2 holes left only 1 will light the bulb thats the gnd, however if u hear a strange noise then thats the starter relay as your backfeeding the system. this test will rule out the supplys good or bad now to test relay. as above you found the battery, start and gnd. now the one that done nowt is the feed to the starter sol so poke the wire into the hole and carefully push relay in, withe the other wire connected to gnd if you now try to start the car the bulb will light if relays doing its job showing that the fault lies from the wire down to the starter. if bulb dont light its the relay. on fords a lot of relays are the same type so if its a red one yonk a red relay from under dash and try it or green or blue. hope this helps u out a bit if you were closer i could do it, been in the electronics auto electrical for 30 years never beat yet. ive found that a lot of garages just dont know about electrics always go for an auto electrician for electrics as we dont like to get our hands greasy

hi u got a maf yet. ive started a collection of them from the local breakers. putting them on my gal 2.0l and checking them using freescan so i can see the info off them. not sure how much to sell them for tho. whats a fair price for a second hand working and tested maf do you reckon. im in the sunderland area for pickup or i can deliver at cost via post office

hi all new on here and hope to have the shed i bought for

thats great i searched but didnt find that bit. so im assuming its down to that pump looking thing mounted onto the battery tray which has 12v all the time to it. now its just the high tickover and massive flat spot when pulling away or blipping throttle

hi slowly going thru the faults on this cheapo car but keep getting this fault code p1414 secondry air injection monitor circuit. anyone tell me where it is please theres that many things in the engine bay. also its got a massive flat spot when u touch the throttle and the tickover is at 1300 rpm any help please

yes its a ford lump and the same type as used in mondeos. there is no ecu as its mechanical pump so thats easy just the heater plug circuit to wire and the cut off. thats why i thought about the conversion

anybody done the conversion yet please im thing of using a mondeo endura engine but need to know what im up against first

hi its got a leak at that bit so the brakes keep disapearing. bought this car as a shed but ill get it sorted loads of electrical faults slooooowly been put right, the central locking is useless so im ripping the control box out and wiring in a sigma alarm to it and a relay for the int lights. the engine wont tickover at less than 1500 rpm using elmscan its the oxy sensor and a air relay, ill get it done eventually

hi anyone tell me what the thingys are under the nearside rear door that is in the brake line please as ive got a leak in that area

hi all my first post on here. just got me a galaxy with a mountian of faults hence its low price. the central lock controller was full of rust so ive condemmed it and want to fit a different one, now then is the mk1 galaxy tdi the same unit please. tickover speed is racing and useing freescan ive checked for faults and none there any thoughts about it. in engine bay there looks to be a pump thing just behind battery and under water bottle what is it. many thanks