
Smilge
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Everything posted by Smilge
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Not for us it isnt ...... :lol:
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I think we'd rather have Spurs in the final mate judging the way the Gunners are playing at the mo..... :lol:
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Dave, did Steve contact you last night? .. I havent heard anything m8
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I haven't mate but give me some minutes I'll take some and post them with pleasure. :lol:
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Keep going mate this is interesting .....
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How long does it take to replace all 4 speakers? I have the speakers but havent had a chance to fit them yet :) Took me about 3 hours m8 ..... need some new yellow door clips first m8 because you will break some(Frauds - about 7 quid for 25) and there's some good threads and piccies that some good people have posted previously which helped me tremendously. Good luck
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No, but I changed mine a few weeks ago because of the quality of sound. You might find that they're actually loose which means you will have to removemove the inside door panels or door cards and see if the mounting screws are loose. Or, you might find the speaker cones have separated from the metal frame of the speaker itself. Pretty unlikely that all the speakers have this problem so you need to find out which ones are vibrating at all volume levels, and if all of them are, then basically you've have another problem. To be honest, if you have the money change the 4 door speakers for better ones, you'll be surprised at the difference! Hope this helps
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Have you seen those things that you can put on your hands ..... wool or linen i think they are made from .... anyway if its cold and you put them on they keep your hands warm ....... gloves I think they call them Maz
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PM'd you m8
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Dave Im very near to you but unfortunately I dont have VAG-COM ..... sounds to me as though you need to get someone to reset the failures first to see if the booster heater will ignite. If not then we can go from there. I have a freind who works for VW in Telford who has the box that just resets the fault codes so that could help you. Do you know Newport at all? Chris
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Hi Gizmo and welcome to the forum. You might find this useful when it comes to fitting your mfd satnav m8. http://www.vwnavi.com/vwnavi/index.aspx I have the Version D fitted to mine and find it better than TomTom6 installed on the PDA, although functionality isnt as good. Accuracy fantastic and voice and route instructions displayed between the clocks is brilliant.
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Oy! ....... good result for us yesterday m8 ..... thanks for that, cracking game to. See you in the Carling cup final :)
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exsqueeze moi..but im the sane one ..well...Hmmmm...maybe not...lmao.. and dont ask me about?????........my beautiful, perfect....gorgeous..in mint condition Gal???? :) :) Thats the one! ... last time I saw it, it was covered in creosote :)
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Hiya Wilbo ....welcome to the forum and hope you enjoy the banter as much as I have ..... Im the sane one and the rest are very nice NUTTERS, espiecally that Mum of 4 .. and dont ask her about ....... best not ... :)
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MMMM ... a bit over the top for an MPV ..... stell prefer StevieG's 18 inch low profile alloys with the suspension lowered.
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Gents having read the previous posts, Mazs' problem is not being able to get into the BIOS because its password protected. What she needs to able to do is to be able to boot the machine from an XP CD to run the chkdsk /p, chkdsk /r and fixboot from the repair option of the XP setup. Im 90% sure this will sort any file corruption. As Wolfie suggests clearing the CMOS will return the machine to default but vital settings may be lost. Many modern laptops store the BIOS password on EEPROM rather than the CMOS chip and therefore clearing the CMOS is pointless. I have E-mailed ACER as a secondhand buyer asking for the BIOS password but still havent recieved an answer (all backdoor passwords have been tried). Does anyone know of a person who works in the Computer world and is able to get the BIOS password for this machine. As far as Im concerned, a factory set password affects the consumers rights in this case, as it even prevents a disc recovery if you think about it. Chris
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Thanks for feedback Have changed the diesel pump vehicle will still not start!! The Mondeo TDCI had a very similar problem when it first came out; flashing glow plug heater lamp and the car wouldnt start or run. It turned out to be a batch of injection pumps where the roller bearings were breaking up and contaminating the fuel. Although they replaced the pumps, the problem continues and can be caused by contaminated fuel ..... the most likely cause is water. This doesnt surprise me considering the weather we have had lately and if the fuel filter isnt changed as often as it should, this could be the cause of your problem. I assume with the age of your car that the diesel injection pump is similar to that of the TDCI even though your engine is an Endura .... perhaps someone could confirm this. Anyway hope you get it sorted soon. Chris
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Thats very useful Gooner ....... thanks for that. :lol:
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Oh and I forgot, without the van on the back the sensors dont see the towbar.
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I have the same problem when the van is attached to the car but all I do when selecting reverse is to press the switch to off. Its very rare that I do reverse with the van on the back and they are only activated when selecting reverse, so not much of a problem to me.
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Might be worth changing them yourself mate before the MOT .... not difficult if you have someone who has done them before with you for the first time and they're relatively cheap to buy. Should take about 1/2 an hour per side and a lot cheaper than getting a dealer to do it.
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Yea ...when they jacked that side up they would have grabbed the top and bottom of the wheel and given it a rigorous rocking. This will have shown wear in the track rod end which in effect is a balljoint; An MOT failure.
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Just a bit of reference stuff I looked up: Self Discharge: Batteries discharge themselves continually, even when no loads are attached. At room temperature, a modern low-antimony battery will lose about 0.1 .... 0.2% of its total charge each day. As the battery ages, antinomy transfer to the negative plate, combined with other sources of contamination can increase the rate to as much as 1% per day. This ultimately leads to battery failure. Rule of Thumb for the influence of temperature: The rate of discharge doubles with every 10 degree C increase in temperature. The self discharge rate of lead calcium batteries is only one fifth as high, and it also remains constant throughout the batteries life. Maintenance: The only correct way to check the charge of a battery is to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte; The battery should be charged whenever the figures drop below 1.20 g/ml or 12.2V. Low-maintenance and maintenance free batteries are best recharged using the UI mathod and a maximum voltage of 14.4V. This method allows adequate charging times on the order of 24 hours - without any risk of overcharging. UI Method of charging Because the standard charger is non regulated the charge current will drop steadily due to their internal resistance and because they dont control the charging voltage, they are not optimal for charging maintenance free batteries. You need to provide a constant charge current to protect the charger until gassing commences and then revert to a constant charge voltage to protect the battery against overload. Well hope this helped a litttle and also hope that you sort this problem soon matey ..threads getting too big. :wacko: Good Luck Chris