mikej

Yet again aircon has lost its gas and guess what my condensor is stuffed just put a little pool of light oil into the plastic tube which contains the reciever/drier( fitted the lefthand side of condensor under plastic cap) and its fizzing a treat , takes about 3-4 weeks to loose all gas and cause a flashing control panel but its deffo leaking from here . New one on its way this very moment

Yet again aircon has lost its gas and guess what my condensor is stuffed just put a little pool of light oil into the plastic tube which contains the reciever/drier( fitted the lefthand side of condensor under plastic cap) and its fizzing a treat , takes about 3-4 weeks to loose all gas and cause a flashing control panel but its deffo leaking from here . New one on its way this very moment

Sorry to hear this , i don't mean to take the mick but you did push in the end of the cruise stalk to activate it and not just switch the slider switch to on didn't you ? as for hearing any relay noise from behind the dash this is very difficult to hear at the best of times , the pipe work around the pedals on my own looked brand new , the damage only appears on the section that travels through the bulkhead and this was the only part i replaced . try putting 12v across the pump off the car and see if it runs ! were are you located by the way?

On my own mk2 2.3 gal the pipe from the bulkhead connects to the pedal switches from the right hand side of the footwell , one single rubber pipe fits onto a plastic t piece , i think the pedal switches are in series or something its very simple to spot , just pull the existing pipe from the bulkhead off the t piece and fit your new length of pipe to this plastic t piece instead ( this totally bypasses all pipework from pump to pedals and so eliminates perished hoses) leave the existing piece from the bulkhead hanging while you fit the other end of your new pipe to the pump . If you had seen the state of this rubber pipe that came off mine you would not believe , it looks as if the rigid plastic black pipe that fits between the pedals and pump is up to the job however the two pieces of rubber pipe at either end must have been sourced on the cheap as both mine were totally perrished through .

Hi again my pump was alot worse than that when i removed it and worked for months after , i only changed the bloody thing because the cruise packed up again but as per sods law it wasn't the bloody pump as the new one didn't fix the fault , it was the already mentioned perrished hose going through the bulkhead . I feel if i hadn't thrown the old one it would still be gioing now lol. On a serious note it would make more sense to bypass the vaccume hose first before spending out on a new pump , you maybe suprised and better off !

If anybody else is interested at looking to lpg i can still get it done for

It appears all mk2 2.3's including my own have the same issues aircon ,dissapearing onboard computer , cruise control or lack of it ! If you want to do a simply cheap quick way of checking your cruise then do the following : 1. if you have removed the nearside headlight to find the dreaded perrished hose , repaired or relaced it only to find it still doesn't work then do the following , go to the nearest motor factors and buy a length of similar diameter pipe ( this is usually fuel pipe ) approx 3 metres and should cost no more than

Hi again when mine went the fuse had melted all the way through the fuse box before blowing , it was in a hell of a mess . I personally think the issue maybe due to poor conections on the fuses causing high resistance , the fact that the cable has been cooked means its resistance value will also have changed hence the need to replace it , make sure you double check the small nuts that hold down the fuses on the new box , i,m not sure if you can buy this lead from a dealer i didn't even bother asking but like a said any auto spark would do it cheap!

Hi mate regarding you melted fuse box , i had the same issue on mine a few months ago i also have the same car 2.3 2001 galaxy . This it seems is very common however its very simple to rectify a new fuse box can be had from fords or vw (had mine from the vw garage as it was cheaper) for approx

If i,m being honest almost everyone has changed the small length from the pump to the plastic pipe as this it seems is the most common piece to fail i had done my own before , however i cannot stress enough for the price of a length of pipe bypass the lot , pump to the pedal , its easy to do even if you have to drive down the road with the pipe coming from under the bonnet and through the passenger window lol.. :angry:

Quote Not that lucky Mike, just hot wired the pump and I get a great vaccum @ the vacuum unit under the dash Not quite sure what you mean i bypassed the pipework in the engine bay and ran a pipe direct from the pump to the t piece fitting where the pipe from the bulk head normally goes on next to the brake pedal so i would assume the smaller lengths of rubber pipe at the two switches were ok , as already mentioned i managed to create a good vaccume on the existing pipework and this threw me for a while as it still didn't work ! only when i bypassed the lot did it come to life ( looks like the smallest hole/split will be enough to mess it up ) As for the two pedal switches they are simple to check with a meter if you have one , either normally open or closed , if i can find my meter i will find out tomorrow for you , i will also measure the live feeds whilst switching and driving on cruise and during pedal operation . :angry: With ref to the pump having variable speed capability note the pump does not run constantly , once the set speed ( & required vaccume) is achieved its quiet unless you over speed say going down a hill in which case the relay in the pump clicks its socks off dumping the pressure i think , if it however dumps to much and you are now going up a steep hill then the pump will ativate to achieve a stronger vaccume to keep speed under load . WELL I THINK THATS WHATS GOING ON ?

Ok now onto my last and final quest to try and fix my computer dislay that i used to have on my dash clocks but it dissapeared then came back then dissapeared again ! If anyone out there can offer any info on how the thing works , where its fed from etc please shout no matter how little the info it all helps , thats been proven already . I have a ford TIS but my new p.c running vista Ultimate 64 won't bloody run it , time to go backwards to XP i think..... come on people i,m not the only one with this issue get your heads together lol :angry: mike......

Waa hay listen up people it bloody works :angry: after two and a half years i can put my dash back together ( if i can find all the bloody bits ) my cruise control is working spot on at last , Mirez your a star ! When you said its all one piece from pump to pedal thats all i needed lol . As i mentioned i wired the pump up on the passenger seat already so i could see first hand if it was kicking in , i then on your info found the other end of the plastic tubing at the left hand side of the engine bay , at the joint where it goes from plastic to rubber ( just before going through the bulkhead ) i pulled it apart and sucked on it there was suction at the pump which would suggest no leaks ? don't you believe it ! i then simply ran a length of tube from the pump on the passenger seat to the pedal , drove the car above 20mph and selected the cruise from the stalk and it worked with the pump making the same noises to maintain the speed ( so that was working fine) it works fine and after 290 miles its going great NOTE once the tubing arrives at the left hand side of the engine bay its a nightmare to follow due to very little room and even if all looks well or in my case sucks well don't believe it , simply run a length of tubing from pump to pedal to eliminate any damaged pipework ! Mauser give it a go mate your pump sounds fine . By the way the new tubing to test and replace the existing pipework cost me

Thanks again mate if like you say its simply a pipe from pump to pedal and it doesn't go anywhere in between then that should make it a lot easier to follow , backwards if neccessary , the plastic pipe like a say on mine (2.3 2001) starts under the wing approx 6" from pump . Still cannot get my head around the workings mind , i'm guessing with regards to what the pump was doing today once activated and i had a gas conversion done last year and there is now a vaccum fed flash lube system on it , pipes everywhere will have to dig deeper i think thanks again mike..... :ph34r:

Had similar issue with mine turned out to be a track rod end , looked fine on the car but like you i changed drop links = same and track rod ends = result how about posting a pic of your motor with the rs6 rims on it , how does it drive and did you lower it at the same time ?

Firstly the cruise has worked previously so i know the pipework is there somewhere , from the vaccum pump i have a 8" piece of rubber tubing that like you say connects to a plastic pipe this goes through the inner wing under the battery tray into some large plastic truncking with many other wires , its here were i lost it . You mention it travels up to the top right hand side of the engine bay when / where does it change back to rubber , does it at any stage go near the inlet manifold / cam cover etc or am i looking at a different pipe , does it stay in the engine bay or does it go up under the scuttle tray at all , you mention you had an issue with the tubing from the brake pedal what sytems did you have . Just purchased 3 metres of fuel pipe myself hoping to get to the bottom of it. Sorry for all the questions but i have no idea how the bloody system works , i mean how does a vaccum hold the speed constant ? thanks for the info MIREZ

Just an update on the cruise control quest , i finally rigged the vac pump so i could have it next to me on the passenger seat , when at the right speed i select the cruise via the end of the stalk and the pump comes to life , although its abit stop/start the relay on the pump is also clicking in and out . What i have noticed is when either the clutch or brake pedal is applied this kills the pump dead as it should so these two switches seem to be working . When i select cruise on a level road the pump makes a little noise pumping but still cannot hold speed but going up a hill its pumping like mad and when going down a hill and the cars goes over the selected speed the relay in the pump clicks like mad now i,m thinking all is possibly well electrically and the pump is struggling to keep the vaccum more so going up hill or under load and maybe the relay is making racket going down hill to dump pressure ? I strongly believe my problem now is due to a split or perished hose somewhere but having no idea were the hell this hose goes when leaving the pump i am at a loss , can anybody offer some help as to the path of the vaccume pipe / diagram or otherwise before i rip the car to pieces . Any help would be great mike......

Guys i have to say again a big thankyou for your help and advice , if i ever found myself in a similar position again i would have to say before you start guessing and messing around , get a bloody thernometer and get the facts on the actual temps and then decide where you go from there. The galaxy Cimate Control is no where as cool as the other makes i have sampled but as its been said it does keep the cabin comfortable without the need to keep switching the aircon on/off . All i need now is to sort my cruise control out , please see other post lol....... :)

Can you not buy a refurbed unit from Euro car parts or GSF , i would forget the main dealer at that price ?

Ok i am on another quest to sort this out once again , had the perished hose , replaced and it worked for a while complete with light on dash , then had the pump full of water and rusted to hell and back managed to bring that back to life and again it ran well for a few months and went again so i fitted a brand new pump from the main stealer and it hasn't worked since . I have a click from dash when selected at the stalk but no light on dash and no cruise , pump works on bench but what i wanna do is rig it up so i can have it sat next to me on passenger seat whilst driving at 20mph + select from stalk and see it myself , what i need to know it what i should expect to get from pump when i select it at the stalk and travelling above the required speed , if any of you have any good advice as to what i should expect it would be most helpful and one final question does anyone on this forum know where the bloody cruise control module is on a 2001 petrol GAL it most definately isn't behind stereo , does anyone have a picture or part number to help me identify it anything ? :ph34r: Think it may be just above the pedals under dash , small silver fag packet siize but need more info to identify it before i pull something i shouldn't lol. mike.....

Thanks to all those who provided advice on the subject looks like you have saved me a few quid , anyhow my aircon will achieve 40 degrees farenhiet at the vents , my Cc today was showing 21 degrees Centigrade set to cold and runnning full blast and my vent thermometer which i later stuck up in the sun visor ( in shade ) was showing 62 degrees farenheit in the cabin after 10 or so minutes of aircon , it was showing 110 when i got in as it had been parked in the sun . Don't think i am going to get it any colder so do the people in the know think these figures are about right ? If so i can move on to my bloody cruise control issue lol......... thanks people. :ph34r:

When you fill and measure the low pressure you are meant to have the air con running, if it is not, the low pressure reading will actually be higher than it should be. Also I have the same guage and when my car had just been correctly filled the pressure reading was just over where it should be. The gauge does not make good contact with the valve in the low pressure connector and I have to push the gauge connector hard down to get the pressure to read correctly. I don't trust the gauges accuracy at all but as it is consistant I can tell if the pressure has dropped. Yeh i had the car running at fast idle for about five mins and this is after leaving the motorway and without switching the engine off , had no issues fitting the gauge , pressure was constant and the wifes car was well within the claimed safe zone on the gauge ???? i give up. :)

You probably put the gauge on the high pressure port - the one near the radiator/condensor. Its supposed to go on the low pressure port - on a Mk1 its hidden behind the offside indicator, don't know where it is on the MK2 No not possible both ports in front of engine bay and the gauge only fits on the low pressure one , the wifes car is definately colder just double checked and the temp dropped straight to 35 degrees F sorry not 32 , my eyes were bloody watering trying to read the gauge maybe like you say i'm expecting too much from it , it is after all a larger cabin to cool . Can the pollen filter affect the temp i havn't changed it for two years ??????? what are others able to get at the center vents i wonder as many have said their aircon is freezing , i say many but it may be the few were the system is still working lol..... :)

Quote 40 deg F = 5 deg C. Its working fine! :) Please don't tell me that now , just been in the wifes 7 year old pug 306 never ever been regassed since new , put thermometer in center vent and got 32 degrees farenheit ? Is the aircon on the Galaxy really so crap ????????

Ok managed to get a thermometer from halfrauds and after 40 mins of driving on motorway the centre vent temp was bang on 40 degrees Farenheit and wouldn't budge under that , that was with the aircon set to coldest setting with front and rear blowers going full chat and only the central vents open . The temp inside the car on the climate control was showing 19 degrees centigrade which i think is 66 degrees Farenheit , while in Halfrauds i purchased a can of R-134a refridgerant this came with a gauge for measuring the system pressure , when i fitted the gauge it gave an alert reading of 45-65psi ( DO NOT ADD REFRIGERANT SEEK PROFFESIONAL HELP) apparently it should read 25-45 psi so it could have been overcharged by quickfit DO THESE TEMP FIGURES MAKE ANY SENSE TO ANYONE ? Also found the graph from a previous posting but this i think shows outside temp against vent temp unless i am mistaken and i ain't got a clue how cold it is today lol.. Think i am about to loose it anytime now .........