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Sounds like classic knackered CV joint symptoms. They can be a little "iffy" on TDi's I think the petrols use different driveshafts (correct me if im wrong!) Replacing them is straight forward for a competent DIY'er, is the noise coming from one side of the car?

Just to add my opinion to the debate, The Mk III is a far better looking car than previous Gal or variants :rolleyes:

Has anyone got access to a TIS disk? Ive lost mine, but seem to recall something about U/S speedo's being mention in the service information and also the need to replace the whole instrument cluster! I could be wrong but if you have access to TIS you could check it out.

The speed rating of a tyre can have a significant effect on the tyre wear. Tyres with a higher speed rating are typically (not always)made from softer compounds which give reduced service life in terms of mileage. A lot of people seem to like going for a tyre that is V or W etc when the manufacturer may specify T or H. You may think your buying a little "peace of mind" but in reality you are simply reducing the mileage between trips to the tyre fitters! Speed ratings are calculated not at peak speeds but sustained running at maximum speed AND load so an H rated tyre that is capable of sustained running at (IIRC) 130mph may give better mileage lifespan than a V (150ish) or W (170ish) rated tyre that is capable of being run at higher speeds but has been made from a softer compound. People may just be pandering to the boy racer in them by going for a higher than necessary speed rating. Remember, the best tyre a fitter will recommend is often be the one he has on the shelf!

Create a restore point before doing anything.

Lol, imagine how I feel at 6'6" (Tiny is a rather ironic nickname thats been with me since my teens) We've just came back from Ibiza, your typical all inclusive package job, seven days of sun, sand and san miguel. with the two kids (5 & 2) it cost us

I had similar symtoms on a Saab 900, once the engine temp got up to normal, the engine would just die and after 5-10 mins it would start again then cut out once it got back up to temp. The culprit was the Crank position sensor, just as you suspect yours is. The one for the saab was about

And once youve got rid of the crap, dont forget to defrag again!

Just a quick note to anyone wanting a tool for rewinding the pistons into the rear calipers. The Laser 1314 is spot on (

Try using Raxco Perfect Disk 8, the guy that I get system parts from swears by it. An unscrupulous person might even be tempted to find it on a torrent site (Not me though-honest :D )

I thought Auto's had a torque converter rather than a clutch?

Thats certainly good to know, a lot of people on here have had emission related MOT failures with 2.0 Galaxy's, and the last time I suggested the secondary air pump I got the distinct impression i was being laughed at!

PM me if your selling the galaxy, ive tried to PM you a couple of times, but im not sure if they got to you as they dont show up in my sent folder!

Sounds like a load of b0llocks to me, what has the fact that the rear windows open got to do with security? So long as they are closed, they are just like the other 4 opening windows. And if they werent secure, they should have been modified not removed. I hope they offered you a little recompense. after all the product supplied was not as expected/specified. Get yourself back to the dealer and tell them you are not happy that the product supplied (car) was not as specified (rear windows did not open) and that you expect a little ass licking in the form of free servicing or accesories to compensate you for your loss. after all if they have supplied you with a product that is less well equipped than that which you ordered, you have been short changed.

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First Persons my genre of choice, BF2142 at the moment. Till something better comes along!

Oh come on, for REALLY good onion gravy you need to sloooooowly sweat the onions, an hour at least.

Possible induction noise?? hava a look to make sure all your air intake pipes are intact. What model is it? (Please add it to your sig')

1.Andy 2.Carlisle (thats two of us Iain!) 3.Galaxy 2.0GLX N plate (just our runabout 2nd car) 4.12 months (feels like a lot more) 5.After a cheap Diesel, so I guess yes! 6.New front shocks, 2 pr drop links, Cat and front pipe,liquid service,

You should check what grade the bolts are, metric bolts or set screws should have a grade stamped into or embossed on the head, 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 are common designations. The higher the number the greater the tensile strength. Typically Socket cap Screws (allen head) are 12.9, hex head screws commonly go to 10.9 with both 8.8 and 10.9 being considered of high tensile strength. If buying non original bolts, i would be wary of the tensile strength rating, too low the bolt could fail, too high and it could be near impossible to drill out if it does snap.

Was at Frauds a few weeks ago and was quoted

In cases where a repossesed car is sold for more than the debt, the finance company willl (in theory) pay you the difference less costs. There are 2 problems here though, 1 The costs they incur are likely to be significant, ie if the car sells for

The centre caps on my 02 MkIII mondeo are very poor quality, I would avoid them like the plague! Since new they've been steadily getting what looks like miniature snail trails in the chrome, this is so bad now only about 50% of the chrome is left. Ive seen loads like this, so mine's not an isolated case. BTW they are the 16" Zetec alloys.

Copper grease deadens the high frequency vibration between the pad and the piston, most pads now have a thin bonded shim on the rear face which does the same thing, but before these were fitted copper grease was commonly used. Have you refitted any clips or shims that were originally fitted when you changed your pads? Clips on the pads are usually to cut down on squal rather than retain the pads, often brake squal occurs because people have damaged or lost any clips.