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Thats if you can get the militant bu99ers to work in the first place.

Lol, option C was purely there to invoke a reaction from you! (Only in jest of course) :D

I posted this a while ago in the thread "What do you hate about your Galaxy" or something like that. Was it too simple to fit a variable switch like anyone else? I mean come on, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, nope too slow, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, damn too fast, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, too slow again, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, ah just right, nope raining slightly harder, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, now its just spitting again, switch it on, wait required time, switch it off, switch it on, FFS the rains stopped. If you havent sussed it by now i think the bloke who designed the Mk1 intermittent wipers was- a ) At best trying to "over egg the pudding" b ) A complete and utter to55er c ) Probably a woman

A mate of mine who needed to program a key for IIRC an old escort, but only had one key (or was missing the red key) took the transponder out of his good key and glued it to the outside of the ignition barrell. Any key cut to pattern would then work. I dont know if this works on VAG systems but if your not bothered about the immobiliser it could be worth a try.

In a nice shade of Taxi Black too!

This is IMO one of those jobs it isnt worth doing yourself. I recently had the Front pipe AND cat replaced for

I got my renewal a few days ago.

On the subject of oil, this is a quite interesting read. Click Me

Surely you jest SK!!...most of the lads on here who have manuals dont read em..i guess its a man thing..... :lol: As opposed to women who read the thing from cover to cover..... Then go and ask a man!!

And yet we still vote Labour in the thousands.

Watch the animal rights lot dont get you! :wacko:

Spanners for the rear caliper bolts, cant remember the exact sizes but 19 & 15 ring a bell. The only allen bolt is the one that locates the disc on the hub. And I'd recommend copper slip on the rear face of the pads regardless of wether they have a composite pad on them. Belt & Braces, you only want to do the job once and brake squeal is bloody annoying.

Thats because all diesels sound like tractors anyhow!...lol ;) ;) ^_^ :19: :23:

Theres only one glove box on my Mk1 and I dont think you can access the top of the heater unit through that........ Theres 2 glove boxes on models with no passenger airbag

So does anyone else think that immigration could be a contributory factor? If immigrants flock to an area and take up a significant proportion of local authority/housing association property, then that will surely displace a lot of other possible tennants(UK Nationals), that of course would increase the amount of people looking to rent in the private sector which would make BTL an attractive business opportunity for those with the inclination to dabble in such areas. House prices will rise due to the increased demand for housing. Lower earners and first time buyers will be priced out of the market as a result and forced into rental rather than home ownership, this in turn feeding the BTL market, and continuing the vicious circle(or downward spiral). It may be a contentious issue and only a part of the problem, but we need to close our borders to immigrants wether asylum seekers or ecomomic immigrants. Perhaps then we could start looking after our own poor instead of the rest of the worlds spongers.

A word of warning for anyone planning to use 100/80w halogen bulbs. Buy plenty, they do not last long at all. The finer element usedin these bulbs have a tendency to burn out much more quickly than other 55/60w halogens. I know because ive used them for years (but i was getting a free supply from my former employers). I've had bulbs last less than a month in a variety of cars. Anyhow my stocks are now exhausted and as my wife works at Aldi, I will be buying some of theirs on Sunday.

I did mine last year and IIRC you havent got the clearance with the strut in-situ. Its not a big job removing it though, but I would recommend drowning the top nut in release agent well in advance, they can be a right b******d to move otherwise. You will need a 7mm allen socket to hold the strut rod by the in-hex socket on the top of the rod, one of mine rounded out before i got it free. A handy tool to help with this job is a (14mm??) spark plug socket with an external hex, cut down in height so you can hold the strut top mount with the socket and a spanner whilst feeding the 7mm allen socket down through the spark plug sockets central drive hole. The top nut is too far recessed into the round plate to get a spanner on. I ended up cutting the nut off with a dremmel, then a hammer and chisel!

This only applies to the tread though, there are still a significant amount of carbon rubbers in the sidewalls, bead coatings,plies etc to allow the dissipation of static. There is also a section of the silica based tread that contains a carbon based compund, typically referred to as the "earthing strip".

Looking at the number plates (except SK's) your more likely to see a bunch of prostitutes and "Coffee" Houses

A common fault causing high emmision MOT failures is the secondary air pump itself, there a a few posts on here about it already. Do you hear the pump spin for about 2 mins from a cold start up? If not the pump could have failed and the ECU will be giving incorrect signals causing higher than normal emmisions (delivering more/less fuel, advanced/retarded ignition timing etc) theres an interesting post on here about replacing the pump with a bulb to fool the ECU into thinking there is a load on the circuit. Found it here you go. Click me

Cheers both, will try to find other end tomorrow, engine was too hot to have a proper look today.

Could this be related to the problem in my post???? Clicky Here

OK, I will try again.....

Hi All, The Galaxy is in for MOT on wednesday, so I thought i had better check out what i thought was a slight blow at the front of the exhaust. It turns out that a pair of rubber pipes have blown off at the rear of the engine. I cant see where they are meant to go, but they join onto steel pipes on the ex' manifold. they have been off at the front once before, I didnt notice any strange noise or behaviour so I just popped them back on. They dont appear to have had any form of hose clip on them, just pushed straight onto the metal pipe. The attached photo shows the connection at the exhaust manifold. So my questions are:- What are they? Why should they be blowing off? Cheers!