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poundland are now doing hammers and screwdrivers in PINK Spot the deliberate mistake, hope you didnt make a special trip to Poundstretcher.....lol

I replaced my offside rear door last year (Galaxy to Galaxy though). The replacement was a very good fit, with just very slight adjustment required for the top of the frame, in my case it simply needed bent in slightly by hand. You will need to remove the bolt that holds the door strap to the B pillar, then open the door wide enough to be able to undo the socket on the multiplug for the door harness (just twist and pull). Then there are (IIRC) 2 locking screws that go through the hinges (one in each) to hold the pin in place, remove these. Then the door will simply lift from its hinges.(the door pins are captive in the door side of the hinge and stay in the door, no chiselling required) You will be amazed at how easy the job is. Im not kidding, I could change a Galaxy door in 10 minutes.

Whatcar gives guide prices from 1900 to 2800 for a 98 S, Parkers 1500-2300 for the same car, given its issues I would say around the 2k mark for a 98 S maybe 2-300 less if its an R.

This reply wont help with your problem, but IIRC at that age it will have a PD engine which must be ran with very specific engine oils. Do a forum search and you will see what I mean. As for the intake noise, have you checked all the intercooler pipework? With having the head off (as Im presuming you have when you say "stripped down") its possible that an intercooler hose has become dislodged or damaged. This is a regular cause of intake roar across a wide range of turbo intercooled cars.

The temperature gauge sender unit on a 2.0 Petrol is located on the bottom of the thermostat housing, there are two sensors and the one for the gauge is the lower of the 2, positioned more towards the front of the car. Marked with a red circle in attached pic. The part is

A silicone based polish is as good as anything BUT, I had this problem a couple of months ago and it wasn't the first time it had happened. My car would do this once or twice a month, then all of a sudden it did it for about 2 months solid and then seemed to correct itself without any input from me. I used to "shuffle" it shut with the switch. It is indeed a safety feature, but im not convinced that physical resistance was the cause of the problem. A month or so ago the window stopped working all together (in the closed position fortunately) and after reading a few posts on here, I decided to have a look at the door loom between the A pillar and door. I found i had a broken Red/Yellow wire but also a few others were showing signs of cracking on the insulation. I dont know whether this was just a coincidence or a related fault but I have not had a recurrence of the symptom since I repaired the door loom and I would recommend at the very least checking for broken wires just in case. They are quite obvious when broken as it it the complete wire that breaks, not just the conductor within the insulator.

Winscreens are usually bonded with a polyurethane sealant, commonly referred to as "screen bond", I dont know how easy it would be to retrofit it as it really requires the 2 parts (screen and shell) to be seperate initially so the sealant can be sandwiched between. I would be tempted to pop into your local autoglazing specialist and see what the say.

Well done all, my drivers window stopped working weeks ago, just had a look and the red/yellow wire is snapped. Bridged it and hey presto window works. Will perform a proper fix tomorrow in daylight but for now, thanks. :35:

If the video isn't working its probably low on steam pressure, try throwing a couple of extra shovels of coal in the boiler! Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Is this any closer to being fixed yet?

Where is the needle on the gauge? I had a similar problem last week, flashing light but needle as high as it would go. Turned out to be the Temp gauge sender unit, the lower 1 of the 2 sensors on the thermostat housing (Square plug, not the round one) The part was

The US and UK (and most of the world for that matter) use the same FM frequencies, so radio reception should not be a problem. A note to others though, Japan uses lower FM frequencies so a radio imported from japan in a used jap car will probably not work in the UK.

For the record, i am also unable to view new posts (flood control)

Quick update....Got in the car next day, ignition on and the needle is stuck in the red BEFORE starting the engine. Unplugged the sender and hey presto, needle drops to zero. Easy fix, new sender

Lol. Hit the nail on the head methinks :wacko: :16: :16: :16:

Im kinda thinking(hoping) its not the head gasket it certainly doesn't seem to be pressurising the system. Once this weather clears up I will have a proper look, torrential rain at the moment. It seems to of p155ed down every day since christmas up here!

Ok........So after driving 30 miles or so, I realise that the temp gauge is off the scale. Red light flashing kinda got my attention. Thing is, the car doesn't seem overly hot. This Gal's never been one to warm up quickly and the temp is normally somewhere down by the "N" but today she's way up over the red! Now the obvious thing would be "is there any water in it?", well, yes there is, topped it up and took less than a pint. Theres no water in the oil or vice versa, so im kinda stumped. Im leaning towards a faulty temp sender or thermostat but if theres anyone out there with similar experience, then let me know your opinions. PLEASE!!! Its a petrol, so the old detatched waterpump impeller shouldn't be an issue.

Got in the Galaxy today (or as I have now christened her the old B1tch) and the drivers door leccy window would not move. Now first thing I thought was "dodgy door wiring" BUT there is a strange, second long buzzing noise coming from the switch when i press down, and a much shorter buzz when i press up. Any ideas? Anyone?? Oh come on please help.

My money is on dodgy wiring in the door loom. galaxy's are (in)famous for broken wires between the door and the A and B pilars

Have you recently fitted cheap drop links? I had a similar problem about 3 months after fitting cheap drop links (Zeldautos - ebay) a few other forum members responded to my original post on the subject to say that they had the same problem.

Do a forum search and you will find loads of info on the cruise control issue and problematic auto boxes, which seem from the amount of postings on the subject to be pretty unreliable and extremely expensive to replace!

I use 100/80w H4's in my Mk1 because the headlights are...well...crap! I very, very rarely get anyone flashing me because they're too bright and the increase in night time visibility is good, but they are illegal i'm afraid. I have not been stopped because of them and I have no idea what the legal implications are if you were to be stopped because of them. What i can tell you is they do not last very long at all, Im on my last pair (I used to get them free from a former employer) and I do not expect to get through the winter without having to change them.

When my petrol Gal' was seriously down on power it turned out to be a knackered catalytic converter. I know ford say they took the exhaust off to check, but if you can get underneath, give the cat a good thump, if it rattles or bangs its knackered. Worth a quick check just in case Mr Ford was having an off day.

I make tyres for a living....................Horrible job!

I used Ford's for servicing until the warranty ran out on my mondeo. Once the warranty was up I used my local (and trusted) independant. I think the clincher was fords wanting