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If they dont have the flats on them, they should have an allen key (7mm IIRC) up the centre of the screwed end of the shaft.

You should try Battlefield 2142 or even Battlefield 2 Both are excellent online first person shooters, and (IMO) much better than the COD games they need a decent spec PC to run nicely though.

No way should that be repaired. The deformation to the internal components of the tyre must be massive. I make tyres for a living, even if you could plug the hole, the tyre structure will of been weakend. Youre not just plugging a hole in rubber, theres multiple layers of fabric (Ply's) as well as a mettalic ply that that bolt must have gone through. A nail may slip between the cords with minimal damage but not a blunt ended bolt.

Up in Carlisle its a lovely quiet night. Not even a breeze!

"Cars registered before 1 January 1973 can use silver on black or white on black number plates. Cars registered after this date must use black on white plates at the front and black on yellow plates at the rear" Courtesy of some website or other!

Were you cornering at the time? If so are you sure it wasn't understeer rather than aquaplaning? As you say that you were coming down a hill (and water tends not to stand on slopes!) I'll assume you were in the corner. Its just understeer is far more likely to happen on a corner in the wet than aquaplaning. Aquaplaning occurs during straight line driving when the load of the vehicle is even across the front tyres and more water builds up in front of the tyres than the tyre can displace, essentially floating the car. Traction is lost on both wheels and all steering is lost. Understeer occurs when traction is lost during cornering and is far more prevalant during wet or icy driving conditions especially on front wheel drive cars. Because aquaplaning occurs when travelling in a straight line you should resist temptation to steer or brake hard, simply depress the clutch and keep the steering steady until traction returns (Do a google on aquaplaning) If you steer while aquaplaning the car could lurch violently when traction returns as the wheels may no longer be pointing in the direction of travel. At times of exceptionally poor weather/driving conditions even the best tyres will fail to meet their usual standards so the only real solution is (as previously posted) to slow down or not drive at all!

And yet today, no need to sign in! For the first time in a while things seem to be back to normal. BTW Didnt change anything this end. Cheers!

Im using AOL, I have IE7 installed, and has been since it was a beta. I still have to log in every time i use the board. Yes, I use the remember me button. No I have not changed anything on my computer, especially browser settings. All was fine until the site overhaul. Now when I enter the site to view topics all the emoticons are shown as text, and I can not post until I have logged in. Im not complaining, just looking for a little help or a suggestion as to what I can do if you believe the problem is at my end. As I say I have changed nopthing on my PC. As for the edit button, does this engine not allow you to set a time limit for edits? Another forum I use allows 90mins to edit posts before they become permanent. Cheers

Ive just fixed this same problem on mine, the door latch mechanism was quite badly corroded on its internal components so I changed it and , Hey Presto door stays shut.

Ive now fitted the door latch mechanism and for anyone thats interested its cured the door opening by itself problem. The old mechanism is quite heavily corroded on all metallic internal parts so I assume that was causing the problem. This was a Mk2 mechanism and was identical to the mk1 with one exception. There is a plastic socket on the mechanism that accepts the pawl on the back of the actual door lock it is slotted on the mk1 but round on the mk2 so as a result the front N/S door no longer operates off the key! The pawl on the back of the lock simply turns in the round socket. You cant change this component as the mechanism is a sealed unit but I could very easily of modified the new unit. I didnt do this because A) It was raining :rolleyes: It works fine off the remote, and C) Im a lazy sod Anyhow the door no longer pops open and Im happy!

Hi all, Can anyone enlighten me as to why I have to sign in constantly all of a sudden? Every time I come onto the board I have to sign in and before I do I do not see the emoticons, they just appear as text. Also has the "Edit" button moved (or dissapeared) I just tried to edit one of my posts and couldn't see it Please Help its driving me nuts!

Lol. Just noticed yours isnt a Galaxy! Silly me can anyone say wether the battery specifications are the same accross the board?

At 5 years old the car should have a Ca battery NOT an Sb type, the technical information states that an Sb battery can be replaced with a Ca type but not vice versa. This is hardly ford trying to sell you their own batteries as they say the Sb type can be replaced by either type. If certain battery chargers are not suitable for use on Ca batteries then it is possible that the alternators are different and equally possible that the alternator on your car is either not charging sufficiently or even damaging the Sb battery fitted. Surely if you want to eliminate the problem you should start with the basics and fit the correct type of battery first. Your retailer may have recommended the battery he sold you, but that recommendation was probably based upon what he had in stock and the desire to make a sale rather than the manufacturers specification for that vehicle. The TIS document that I posted earlier states clearly that a Ca battery MUST be replaced with a Ca battery so why choose to ignore this information? It may not cure your problem, but it is the most simple part of the equation to eliminate.

Follow the link in my earlier post and you will find someone who had a similar problem Do you hear a whine from the engine compartment for the first 2 mins after starting from cold? If not the pump may be seized. I dont know how it not working would affect the emissions once the engine is warm, but it seems to have been the problem in the earlier post.

Happy New Year

Lost a tenner on the Geordies today! silly bet with my boss when drunk on the works do. Never mind, just been looking at your map coordinates Cepheus, was the galaxy in the garage when google earth flew over?

So come on Saturbo, did you buy it?

IIRC our old (upto J reg) transits at a former employers had 2 batteries, one was used purely for starting and the other ran everything else. The charging was somehow prioritised so that the starter battery was always full. Im sure it was a factory option, our service vans used to spend a lot of time in the middle of forests etc, well away from civilisation, a flat battery was a nightmare in the days before mobile phones.

The majority of insurers will let you off with a single 3 point speeding conviction so long as its SP30 and you dont fall into a high risk group (17 year old, just passed test etc.)

My renewal was

The problem with hyundais is the depreciation. Their residual value goes down quicker than a ten quid hooker! (Can I say that on here?) The 5 year warranty is good but by the end of the 5 years all you can trade it in against is another Hyundai. Although to be fair the Tucson doas look a half decent motor.

Looking at this site, it looks like the ANU is the PD engine and the AFN is the earlier one. Engine parts Am I right in saying yours is a PD?

A quick google turned this up, its for sharans but the dates might help. Engine codes EDIT- Or maybe not, gives a choice of 5 for 2001 models!

Sorry i cant help with the battery drain problem but the attatched service bulletin from ford states that your vehicle should be fitted with a Ca battery ONLY. Ca type batteries fitted to Galaxy from 09-99 Take a copy with you to the retailer and insist they change the battery for the one you originally asked for. Its possible that the charging system is slightly different for the 2 different types of battery and that might be causing your problem. Also ask if they can do a "discharge test" on your old one to see if there was a fault with it. For anyone else looking at this document, it has additional pages to the one in my earlier post, I seem to have lost a page or two from the old one. This one is complete. Ca_Batteries_word.htm

A tiddler, around 13.5 lb. Not bad for cod these days though.