BrianH

strength would be its downfall - it has to flex too much in the first place hence they break. Trailer cable is your best bet as thats designed to flex for the smaller cables, rest I'd do in single runs of the same size as the existing cable. You should be able to make one end of your new run inside the car (near where the rear seatbelt goes into the pillar) and the other end inside the boot lid itself where neither section needs to move (make yourself some slack by undoing the cable restraints inside the rear hatch first then pull your joint back into the door, similar technique inside bring the end somewhere convenient and work on it then put it back, just make sure the joints aren't subject to bending when your done and it should be fine)

Oh - the what did i solder question would be the pins on the back of the circuit board, ideally you want to remove the existing solder (either some copper braid or solder sucker will do that) and run new onto it. The relay is cheap enough that I'd consider having a spare onhand or at least checking you can obtain one quickly if its your only vehicle though if your going to try soldering it, unless your fairly confident in your soldering skills!

Yes on the personality question - its a common problem, relay supplies the immobiliser so it stops it starting, doing exactly what you have found yours does usually (turns over, doesn't fire and it will work again later usually, but progressively get worse and more annoying!). GSF would be GSF car parts - http://www.gsfcarparts.com/Probably has a branch near you somwhere. I've had it fail twice in around 70k on the petrol, though the first replacement was a used relay. I'm using the soldered original one i replaced now and its been fine for months (brought the car with the fault originally, drove it back 130 miles without a problem then it occoured 2 days later!) Maybe on the replacement question, but would it matter and the only way you might tell is pulling the relay out and seeing if its an original part, or a pattern (if its a pattern one then its clearly a replacement). Once you have the relay out its a case of gently levering the casing off of it (the larger box comes off the base with the pins) and then you can access the joints. Theres info in the faq section somewhere (the same repair as on relay 30 for the petrol versions just your relay is 109 not 30) If the led is flashing rapidly that should indicate the immobilser isnt being disarmed - without access to TIS (which i can't get mine to work properly now) i've no idea on codes, and it doesn't really matter in this case, if you want codes read its far easier and more reliable to use the diagnostic socket under the ashtray and VCDS in your case with a vag-com lead off ebay than trying to interpret the led in any depth.

If your looking for replacements then when you get to it there should be a part number on there, search for it on GSF i found mine there. Ended up soldering mine as i wanted to know if it was the problem of the solder joints and its been fine ever since, so I've got the new one as a spare. The drivers door led flashing is the usual indicator of this issue btw

Its probably going to be one of those annoying problems that comes back intermittently, I had major issues with mine until i ended up giving in and investigating the rear hatch door which i suspected was the issue, That one by far was the worst, mainly as someone else had been there in the past though (silicon sealent, earth sleeving, terminal blocks and a right bloody mess was discovered). I bodged the drivers one originally with a butt connector - when i came back to it to sort properly the wire had nearly snapped again! Soldering it new pieces of cable is definitely the way to go, as the soldered joints don't flex as easily.

The other possibility is the speed sensor in the gearbox - the mk1 focus is known for having this problem due to it, not sure if its a known galaxy issue though.

If its similar to the other zetec mainfolds the o-ring isn't actually an o-ring, its a rubber gasket like the rocker cover one. If it is leaking you might be able to pinpoint the leak with carb cleaner (spray a little where the leak is suspected to be - if the engine reacts its being drawn in and burnt, don't get too carried away though with it) It would be on the joint you've exposed in your photos (you can see the outline of it in the photos, but maybe its past its best if it is still there) Does this help at all http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24812&s_id_model=99&s_code_image=G002114503

If your not sure take some photos and we should be able to figure out if anything is missing. No idea on the ecu remap, but its a heavy vehicle so that hits it somewhat (mine is not far short of 1800kg before anything is in it from memory).

If yours is the 2010 model your other post refers to then its a mkIII - nothing above will be relevent as the mk1/mk2 is an entirely different vehicle. Hopefully your other topic will get moved to the correct section where someone who can help may see it.

Have you tried the online breakers - Partsgateway being one. Whereabouts are you in the country?

It certainly doesn't sound right - does the engine sound like its actually running correctly? (no spluttering or misfiring?) What tyres do you have fitted? (size and load rating - the load rating is critical as if its too low the handling is impaired) Could be a few other things - most that come to mind would be picked up on an mot (worn drop links or other antiroll bar bits, steering bushes etc) or make noticeable sounds. Could be a broken abs ring is the only other thing i can think of, though i'd expect this to be causing the abs light to come on (provided it works of course).

Your reply seems somewhat confused - the only lights on the rear panel are the foglights (you may only have 1 of these with an actual bulb in it, the second one can be fitted but is blanked off - its a case of pop the plastic out and fit a bulb holder from what i remember if you want it usable) and the reversing lights. The rest is just a reflector. Don't know on the wire without looking at the book, which i don't have to hand at the minute, soon as i get chance to look will do.

Sounds like the best plan, Are you sure yours has a DMF?

It might be worth taking the airbag off the steering wheel and checking it hasn't undone itself. Disconnect the battery before trying that though, airbag is held in by a few torx screws in the back of the steering wheel, once you have it out the centre bolt is visible. Be careful when your taking it off as you don't want to pull the wires off when you try it (theres a yellow connector on the end)

You might get some luck with bleeding the clutch/replacing the fluid, but I'd suspect as you say that the slave cylinder is playing up. Best way i've found to work out which bit is the problem is to see if you can select when the engine isn't running - if it goes in ok then the slave cylinder looks like your issue. Noone will mind you have a Alhambra, just bear in mind if its a petrol engine that the engines are different between ford and the vw/seat versions!. Diesels are all the same though.

I don't know then, only thing i can think is you've still got some restriction in the cylinder head cooling. Mostly because you've ruled everything else out, Do you lose any coolant?

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7510-diesel-run-on-water-pump/&do=findComment&comment=54739

Actually thinking about it try the run on pump if yours has one. Info in faq section. Good chance it wants attention if its there. If rear heater not hot good chance it's that.

Might be an idea to check it isn't the throttle cable - if its stiff to move it may be retracting slowly rather than allowing the throttle to close. An assistant to move the pedal while you watch the throttle plate should tell you.

It may be the actuator is just worn out in it rather than it sticking as such, really hard to tell without being able to see it doing what its supposed to do. Your probably fine on the throttle plate - cleaning with a wire brush would probably cause more issues than carb cleaner, though you never know if someone else has done the same previously anyway! New gasket wouldn't be the worst idea either if you haven't already replaced it (the one between the throttle body and the manifold)

its a later design revision, but i've not personally seen it (there are some different radiators though where hoses are at either end of the radiator rather than both at the same end, so it may not fit correctly). Its different for a reason (improvement), but offhand not sure why. Does the heater work (both of them if you have the rear one)? just wondering if you have a blockage in those thats preventing the hot water circulating correctly.

And the air intake is via the pollen filter up under the passenger side of the windscreen - if you think its drawing air directly from above engine, is the scuttle plate in place?

Might have been resurfacing as result of this > http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-33856011 That clip should be on the bolt in the middle of the scuttle panel/surfboard under the wipers - right in the middle of the car towards the wiper area. The amount of glass doesn't help with the heat - i find the same problem as my aircon doesn't work (theres a leak somewhere that fails the vacuum test, not found it as yet)

have a look at this link - item number 40 in particular - does this look anything like your hose setup and does that look like where your thermostat is installed. http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24438&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001578905 I'm wondering if your issue is still the thermostat and the one you've replaced is not the correct one/in the correct place. Where do the hoses change temperature (if the radiator is cold then the issue isn't the fans being switched on or not by the sensor - its that your not getting hot water flowing to the radiator. Given you've replaced the water pump it shouldn't be the cause, but if the pump is working correctly you should be able to see water returned to the expansion tank via the small hose when the engine is running. If the top hose is hot then follow it along and see if you can find any change the closer you get to the radiator, this should give you an idea of the area with the issue.

particually check the end of the pipework that runs to the brake servo, its known to split at the end without a noticeable loss of vacuum assist so easily missed.