BrianH

broken wires in door gaiter (front drivers door) a likely cause. Could be faulty switch - not sure if it goes open or closed to lock them out, but its possible connecting other bits of the switch are making bare wires in the gaiter live. Its a common place to have issues and relatively easy to check

Wipers do have issues - do you mean the arms slip around on the spindles? Commonly they stick due to seizing up, or the wiper motor control board gives issues. replacement complete linkages are sometimes easiest way to fix, have a read of posts here theres been many posts about them. Theres a paddle on the back of the lock - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-LOCK-REPAIR-SET-KIT-FRONT-for-FORD-GALAXY-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN-33mm-PIN-/252099302063 shows the bits, but it will have broken for a reason, maybe wires, maybe the latch, check/repair wires as detailed below first and go from there. Rest of the problems probably down to broken wires - common issue on these, have a look in the faq section at the top of the forum, instructions there on where to look (door gaiters) and how to fix (check all of the doors including the boot)

Testing for the fuel being pumped up should be easy to do then when you get chance to do so as pumped should give you a good flow if its working correctly

That sounds somewhat like its struggling to pickup diesel - either an air leak in the system (filter is likely location) or crap stuck in the pickup both being possibilities. i don't know if there is a tank pump on the diesel models, but if there is your best bet to see where fault might be is to remove the feed from the tank and put something on the end of the pipe to catch fuel, and get someone to turn the ignition on for you. You should have a flow of fuel coming out if there is a pump, if this happens the pump and pickup are probably ok. Most diesels don't have a tank pump though. Other possibility is a clogged fuel filter though I'd guess you've already looked at that?

If you goto the top of this forums posts theres a faq section - inside that theres details on checking level of the gearbox and changing fluid.

Brake lights could be a few things 1) wrong bulbs fitted (single filament instead of the correct double ones) 2) blown fuses 3) broken wires in the boot gaiter (righthand one) - this may blow fuses 4) dodgy brake light switch - suspect not this one, but some have 2 switches in one unit, usually if this fails it will make the glowplug light flash on startup

Is it a round plug with a lot of pins? If so it may be the socket that the door wiring goes into? If not then see if you can post a pic of it, you should be able to get to the back of the plug/socket via the fusebox area if your hands are small enough

You should be getting a yellow dye put in with the oil and gas recharge - the idea being you can see where its leaking from by finding the dye. (it shows up better with the yellow glasses and uv light, but still visible without) On my mk1 the air con evaporator is relatively easy to see - Removal of the gloveboxes and heater motor exposes part of it, Not sure how similar the mk2 is. But you could have a look for yourself. If you've ever used radweld you will know it rarely works for long, if even at all. It has a habit of causing more problems from what i've seen, The air con system is far more delicate/precise than the engine cooling system, so putting that kind of thing in there just sounds like a bad idea from the start to me. Taking the dash out isn't as horrendous as I'd expected (had to have mine out for the heater matrix) but not something you want to do unless its really necessary.

I've not seen it on the galaxy, but have seen on other vehicles that you can end up with crap in the fuel ending up blocking the fuel pickup line, Given your getting something though the pump may be barely working, or may just be gummed up with crap. Its more likely a problem if the cars been stood a long time, or if you've filled up with contaminated fuel at some point.

The injector loom on some is known to cause problems - though this usually shows up with a fault code under VCDS, so may be worth a scan if you can obtain a lead. Have you changed fuel filter recently with the starting issue?

Theres loads of detail in the faq thread > search for fluid in the post and you should find this one http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5899-autobox-oil-change/&do=findComment&comment=40671 9 litre capicity in total, but you won't get all of it out of the box, how much you need depends if you intend draining it, or topping up, which in turn depends what you find (not much point in topping up if its turned to tar!) 7 litres seems to be the indication if your draining but have a read yourself.

You might also get more responses in the technical help part of the forum than here!

On the 2.0 I've got its in the upper radiator hose - its held in by a clip. 14 on the diagram below http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24432&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G002065501 Theres a few different types - a 2 pin and a 4 pin that i know of. I'd doubt its the ecu - The fan switch on most cars is literally that - a switch activated by temperature. The ecu is buried above the fusebox, under the dashboard.

If it does it when your flicking the latch (i take it you mean pushing it closed using a screwdriver or something similar) it isn't the lock post. Take the inside panel off, disconnect the wires and try again. If it then works you have a fault in the locking wiring somewhere. You should be able to open it with the key in this state (do this with the door in the open position first to get your head round it though). There may be a fault in one of the other door gaiters (drivers door most likely, others a possibility though) if you can't find anything in the rear hatch. If it still does it try your old latch - if that does the same they are both knackered is the most likely option!

Might help to say where it is?

Given the original post is 9 years old your unlikely to get an answer from any of the original posters, Eurocarparts website suggests its around £10 a litre http://www.eurocarparts.com/transmission-oils You might find something cheaper elsewhere, or a bigger containter at a better price. It may be worth looking at the current state of the fluid - if it smells burnt or looks like tar you may be better to drain and refill rather than just top up (it may take a few attempts to get most of the fluid out as some will remain in the box)

If the undertray is installed take it off, get someone to help then with moving the steering about and have a look to see if you can see any point the leak is coming from (engine running and moving the steering should make it fairly obvious). The pump is at the other end so its probabbly not that - could be either a hose or the rack itself, but its going to be a case of looking for the source first. If its getting worse its possible that its being caused by something rubbing a hole into a hose.

You don't say which one it is (mk1 or mk2) but the central locking is a possible culprit - specifically the wires breaking in the door gaiters including the boot. Try pulling fuse 19 if its a mk1 and seeing if the locks stop working on the central locking - if this does stop them (it does on mine from when i had issues with the locking unlocking itself randomly due to the same issue) then leave it in that state with a charged battery connected, If this stops the problem start looking at the door gaiters (specifically the boot one) and repair any broken wires found. Broken wires in the gaiters on the galaxy are a known common issue with various symptoms, Given that the battery appears to charge even only over a few minutes suggests its not the battery to me. What battery is fitted though? And what does it actually do when its flat (does it not attempt to start/high speed clicking without managing to crank or cranks over but fails to start - if so what does the light on the drivers door panel do on these occasions?)

Theres flaps inside the heater box - good chance these aren't working as expected, possible the matrix is blocked so hot water gets into the hoses but no further, though not likely. If you take the heater controls and radio out you can gain some access to the heater box though the opening, same applies with the upper glovebox out - the glovebox may allow you to access the top of the heater matrix to check its acutally getting hot. Take the controls out first and check that its actually operating the cable for the heat dial (not come away or broken off) if its a manual version. If it has climate control not sure how you'd best proceed as not seen that setup personally.

Engine light could be on for any number of reasons - the easiest way to tell is to read the codes using diagnostic equipment of some type (a cheap code reader will do this). Automatic gearboxes run off hydraulic oil - its different to engine oil, but still oil. If its leaked out leaving not enough in the box it won't work properly. Have a look for yourself where the oil is coming from if possible as a first step - take photos of what you can see. Not sure if the auto box may indicate a fault by lighting the engine light - it will have a limp mode to allow you to get it home hopefully without further damage, a few things can cause this to happen though it comes back to getting a code read done.

I'd give that a shot - you've got a good chance of managing to fill the hole with the silicone, and your not going to make it any worse. Even if you can only get it in from underneath it will stand a good chance of plugging the hole. Its probably quite an expensive screen as its quite large, given that you have a panoramic roof I'd guess its a higher end spec, so probably a heated front screen as well, which will add to the cost if you have to have to pay for it, Though you might get lucky with a skilled fitter they may be able to remove and refit it, though its very likely to break during an attempt.

An air leak somewhere on the diesel supply is likly to be your issue, have a look around the fuel filter make sure everything is tightened up properly

Do you have a booster heater in the back, and does it work?

Not sure which fusebox you have in your mk2 - the relay number 3 is labelled in what i've got to hand as the inverter relay on the 2.0/2.3 - I'm not 100% sure what that actually means or if it matches yours. In the absence of a better plan pull it out and see what happens - I take it you still have the running issues as well as the airbag light etc at present?

Have had one thought before you go too far. Drop the fusebox down and pull out the relays. Check nothing burnt on them and reseat them in their sockets. Just in case reason you can't get responses from controllers is down to lack of power