BrianH

If it has your likely to have the fluid leaking out of the bottom of the gearbox, Its possible that you haven't got the bleed nipple back in (if its like mine theres a short piece of pipe on it, its possible i think for that to unscrew from both ends). Or you've purged too much fluid through and its dropped too low in the reservoir, if the system has filled with air this would cause it to drop. You may find it helps to remove the rubber surround that sits in the gearbox. it could equally be the master cylinder rather than the slave. Only way you might be able to tell is to check the fluid level then pop the pipe off where it joins and see if you get any pressure when the pedal is moved.

Never heard of Focom, but it sounds a bit rude! Gave it a quick gurgle, looks like third party software for an IDS clone interface - hopefully it should do all the same stuff. I think its now called Fcom, though appears the one i've got is a knock off one anyway, so not sure i'd really trust it. Though it could be given a go on the old one i suppose!

Thats whats putting me off doing it, though knowing i only have 1 working key nags at me at the same time! Thinking about it though i do have a suitable one to try it out on, as I've got the dead mk1 to try it out with first.

Pads and discs shouldn't make a difference - its more if the fluid level drops below the minimum level or if you'd replaced hoses etc that you'd expect possible problems. Bleeding should tell you though.

Is Focom the same thing as IDS? I've got that (was badged as being Ford Mini-IDS i think when i brought it). Yes procedure in the faq is what i'm using - I get the led on the door behaving as it should until you start pressing buttons - at which point it does nothing! I will have a closer look at the key labels - Thing is first look shows different frequencies on the Seat one I brought, the VW one appears to be the same (though i've only 1 key for it, and that one doesn't work either on the remotes, i've a second one thats a plain key, but hasn't been programmed to the immobilizer which came with it, No guarantee someone hasn't been swapping bits about previously).

Sounds like the clutch release bearing isn't moving as far as it should do - you might find that it just needs the clutch bleeding, particularly if any works been done on the brakes recently. Its unlikely to be the oil unless the oil has been leaking of course....

Just a thought in relation to this - are the VW/Seat fobs the same as the Ford ones?

No, but you have a mk3 try that section you might get more luck with an answer there.

Anyone know of a cause for the fob failing to sync - I can get the led on the door to behave as it should do so that suggests the door switches are working correctly, pressing either button on the remote causes the led on remote to light up, but try as i might it will not sync to the car. I've now tried 3 different remotes (the one that came with the car, and 2 off ebay) and not one wants to work! So suspect the car is the issue somehow, but not sure even where the remote locking unit actually is? Is it possible to use vcds to wipe the programmed fobs and start again? and if so anyone know how?

2010 would be a mk3 - is it just one of the indicators that stops or all of them? Just one would suggest dodgy bulb (broken filament flapping around or bad contact with holder) or wiring issues. All of that side playing up suggests either wiring or the switch/stalk itself. Possibly the flasher relay if it has one, though folks in the mk3 section probably better able to tell you.

That's a symptom that it's detecting a door failing to lock or unlock. Start by checking wires as said above. If wires all ok then try locking from inside, if you have either front door fail to lock then that's where your problem is likely to be. Might need to swap the affected door catch if wiring is ruled out.

Yes - you remove the steering wheel and its on the back. Theres a few screws in the back of the wheel that hold the airbag to the wheel remove those you should then be able to remove the bag itself. Once you have the bag out theres a large nut that holds the wheel in place - remove that, then remove steering wheel and you should see it. From what you've said its snapped the clock spring by the sounds of it (over tightened it by turning too far) I'd suggest your best to disconnect the battery first and give it 10-20 minutes before tackling the airbag removal, and leave the airbag somewhere out of the way just in case. When your reconnecting it it would also be advisable to have any tools well out of the way just in case (you don't want the screwdriver in your hand getting launched towards you or anyone else in the event it does go off) You still need vcds to reset the light though one way or another (lite version will do this)

its the bit that allows the airbag to be connected behind the steering wheel (the bag being in the centre of the wheel needs to stay connected whilst the wheel turns back and forth). the cable coils and uncoils as you rotate the steering wheel. They do seem prone to failure on the Galaxy - though i would guess if you've got the wheel back in place with it misaligned far enough that you might have managed to stretch it in some way? I've not known them to fail on any other vehicle I've had. I'd suggest you scan it with VCDS - as it may be something else causing the issue (it relates to seat belt pretnesioners and any other airbags you may have as well). Also once the light has come on, even if you fix the issue the light stays on till its reset anyway. Example of clock spring > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-AIR-BAG-SQUIB-SRS-CLOCK-SPRING-STEERING-WHEEL-2004-1J0-959-653-E-/271910194649 It looks like a long spiral of cable inside, like the kind of springs you'd get in mechanical clocks etc just somewhat bigger.

If its returning down its detecting an overload (designed this way to avoid chopping bits off of kids sticking out the window etc). I'd suspect its either sticking in the runners or theres some sort of fault with the motor. It might be worth running some WD40 down the runners at either edge to try and lighten the load a bit?

Best i can suggest is to eject the disc and see what it says on it? Ford might still supply them, but I doubt they would be cheap if so. And as above - try a post in the mk3 section as you might get some luck there.

If its a manual do your reversing lights work without having to hold the gearstick in reverse? It should increase revs slightly when reverse is engaged, if its not keeping the lights on then the switch on the gearbox is possibly the problem?

Sills look ok on it as far as i've seen no signs of the usual damage - not really had time to give a thorough going over yet - A 2.3 Galaxy Ghia 2001 (sadly its registered in May 2001 but never mind!) I now know a place to use in Luton for tyres which is A) Cheap and B) actually seems to understand what they are doing when jacking up a Galaxy - the point i use at the front when jacking is where the outrigger meets the main chassis as it seems nice and soild there, no need to crush sills up unlike the last time i used blackcircles for tyres. They also managed to get the leaky alloy wheel to stay inflated with the best of the tyres that came off the front, which is more than any of the prior lot that have replaced tyres have managed to do (slathering on more tyre sealant ontop of old sealant and flaky paint is not going to work which is what they had done it seems) I'm still trying to fathom out how/what they were trying to tell me - I think i had it confused by being towards a hedge at the front, and a load of conkers and other tree related debris at the back, as it seemed to protest when moved in either direction! I will try it out next time i drive and see if it makes more sense then. Air con i don't think works, but can look into that later on, think it will need a few other bits (2 tyres on front wearing unevenly, so something amiss there) and think i will have to do something about the stereo as I'm used to a DAB unit, Can probably transplant the one from the other car to it with a suitable adapter. Yes i know on the rust front it can turn into a much larger job than expected - The previous mondeo I had to the one i scrapped earlier this year did a right number on me when we came to needing a patch on the nearside sill - Mate started welding it only to discover a load of solder like filler had been used at some point to repair damage in the area, think we ended up using a complete skin sill to sort it in the end. When we had finished exploring the extent of the rust on the 2nd one most of both sills have gone up to within 30cm of the b pillar all along the bottom - We had given up exploring by then as it was clearly too much! Inner sillls have been more of a problem - I've only ever had them patched, but usually by that time the cars on its last legs anyway. Think I've realized what the slightly strange noise is though - Sounds like the clutch release bearing is rather worn. It was just refreshing to drive a galaxy with a quieter engine than mine had towards the end of its life! I think with yours you need to decide if you can really make use of it to make it worthwhile enough to do - They can be found with an MOT on them for not a lot of money - The previous owner of mine had decided to get rid of it as it was too thirsty running round town etc, which is hardly surprising given what it is. It was showing 30ish mpg on the way home though.

Oh dear I've picked the replacement up today - not sure about having parking sensors at present! Also found someone has helpfully removed the center of the valve on the rear tyre of my old one (noticed it was flat, so pumped it up to prevent it ruining the tyre, only for all the air to come straight back out as soon as it was disconnected).. And no - I've seen what happens trying to weld to rust - lots of popping and banging usually!

Going to look at another one tomorrow with any luck, provided the Discovery doesn't continue in the ways it has today (Gearbox faults randomly popping up due to a badly designed selector switch, and overheating due to suspected dodgy radiator). How big a hole? - We investigated my Mondeo in February as I'd noticed a hole in the sill when under there for something else - In the month or so it had been like that it got from something you could put your finger into into something you could put your hand into! Given that was a skin sill put on 5 or 6 years ago it had done well, but on investigation it was too far gone to save, ended up with needing both sills, both rear wheelarches and some work round the fuel filler area. Got someone who can do the welding, but i couldn't face having that much of it to do.

Doesn't sound like the usual relay issue that would give rapid flashing, worth a look when you try cranking the engine over though. Being a Diesel if it doesn't fire i'd suspect it isn't getting fuel to the pump - Have you checked the filter isn't completely blocked and if any fuel comes up the supply to it? (I think theres an intank pump on the diesels?)

Cheers - I wasn't sure if Zetec or Ghia was better, though had noticed the Ghia level of trim on the focus i've got seemed more basic than my mates Focus LX so wasn't sure quite what they had done there.

Has anyone got/seen a guide to the various trim levels - I know Aspen is bottom of the range, just wondered what was better spec comfort wise.

I hadn't looked that far into it to find that out! Will find something just need time to look for something (hopefully a bit more local than i've seen so far)

I'd start with monitoring that other temp sensor - I wouldn't be convinced it really is overheating. I've used an obd reader (bluetooth one) and torque app on an android phone to monitor (this is how i could tell when mine went on route to plymouth showing the red flashing light and temp gauge shot upto the top end that it was actually only running at 88 degrees at the time, it became obvious as the sender got worse that it was faulty as the gauge would hover all over the place, showing impossible readings (overheating when its just been started being the most obvious). When you've got an actual idea what temp its running you then know what your dealing with. you need a reader capable of displaying live data, and using SAE J1850PWM protocal I've never used the head/block sealer, though others have sworn by it. I'd suspect since you have a known cause with the original failure that you've addressed then it might work, but only if thats actually the problem. The real question as Paul says, is are you still losing water from somewhere?

Attached is the photo of the heater matrix location - the only really tricky part was finding one of the bolts that held the dashboard in (one is hidden behind the heater intake box where the pollen filter sits, accessed from under the windscreen wiper motor area - theres 2 here, one can be seen, other can't but can be felt once you know where to look)