BrianH

Unfortnately the forum is a bit broken at the minute - new replys aren't getting shown properly on the main forum page etc.

What tyres are you using? Brand and load rating? I've had no end of weird issues on the mk1 with a set of cheap tyres on the front = Wobble on braking, uneven wear etc even though they were the correct rating (allegedly) If the ones on the back are a different brand it may be worth swapping them around? I had the wobbling effect, though that was most noticable under braking. About half of it disappeared with a new set of front tyres, the rest went with a new set of discs shortly afterwards. All the time those tyres were on the front it was noticable they were worse than the ones they replaced. They also didn't last as long!

Sounds like you nailed it. Does sound like a software bug though as you'd expect it to kill the connection on switching off the ignition (or at least locking the doors as if you've locked the car you clearly won't want to have the car using the bluetooth connection at that point)

Seems to have been going that way on most forums for about a year now, Doesn't help that theres far fewer Galaxy owners left around for the older models.

Also got a full middle row of seats - Aspen spec, and an unmatched single rear O/S seat available. Drop me a pm if interested and can send you pictures of them.

Bumpers still available, Panels all gone now.

And then measure the resistance between the surround and a known good ground. Hi, I have a similar problem; test probe to centre and to surround for earth shows a DC volts reading of less than 1.3. Fuse is ok. I've removed the centre console and disconnected the wiring harness and repeated the same test there with the same results. The only difference is I can get 10V DC from the lighting + and the earth. If I measure the resistance between the surround and a good earth, what am I looking for? Thanks, Vaughan You should see close to 0 ohms or a dead short circuit as they should be connected. would be more useful to check between the centre and earth - if that shows 12v (or somewhere close to) then your problem is between the surrond and the chassis (bad connection somewhere). Might be an idea to check the input on the back as well - if that gives you 12v against the surround or earth it might be a socket gone bad. The forum software isn't working properly at present - suggest if you need more help start a new topic rather than replying here, as it will be pages down the screen as its from 2011 so noone can see it, i only noticed the topic from the newest posts field.

Still broken???

Have got both front and rear bumpers available (original fit units, not pattern replacements) In Cuirass (the silvery grey metallic colour). £30 each, Front in good condition, rear has a few scratches and marks but is reasonably intact. Also tailgate available, Bonnet and drivers side doors - All would be collection from Milton Keynes. Open to offers on those. Can provide photos of them, drop me a pm with your email address. If you require any of the panels please say so before 7th Dec as will be getting rid of the rest of it then (can be collected after that date, but need to know beforehand!). Also if your after any non-engine bits please say, may be able to help (engine is dead for the most part due to it eating its piston rings).

It depends which brake discs are on the front Brian. If your mk2 has 300mm brake discs on the front, the old mk1 16" alloys foul the brake calipers. You have to use mk2 alloys. If your mk2 has the old brake setup with 288mm brake discs, and quite a few did, then AFAIK you are OK to use the old alloys. Yes, I think it's going to have to go for spares, when I can get round to it. I can't bring myself to put the effort in to sort it out, it's all looking a bit rough under there. I've already had to tidy up the body and weld the front cross members, I can foresee an ongoing battle. Hmm, mines an early one so might be in luck. Haven't had chance to check as yet. Got a melted fusebox to sort first (at least I think thats why it didn't want to start yesterday morning).

Its a Mk3 you've got then, a post in that section might get you more luck finding an answer. I've known on some vehicles if the cooling fan keeps going (or starts up randomly when it shouldn't) that can cause the battery to go flat. But you'd expect to hear it if that was the case. That would usually be down to a faulty fan switch/sensor.

Slightly off topic - Any idea why the manual says you can't use mk1 wheels on a mk2? I've brought two tyres for mine last week.... The remaining bits that want removing from mine are planned to happen this weekend. I'm guessing your signature means you've decided its time for it to go now!

Failed on a Tyre....!!!? :( Thanks again. ;) The reason i posted both is as you've noticed one would get delivered quicker than the other! At least its just a tyre though to replace it could be worse! Glad to hear its sorted. You will probably find a use for the cable again in the future.

Just to show the problem this is how this post shows up now - your reply doesn't show in the count even though its there! Also getting an sql error now on trying to post.

Just to show the problem this is how this post shows up now - your reply doesn't show in the count even though its there!

Anyone else having issues with posting replies - My browser never goes to the posted page but the post appears if you refresh page. Also the post count doesn't work properly - the last post field is wrong most of the time, and shows 0 replies to topics which have replies. Firefox 57.0 on Windows 10 here

Also if it helps I have a MK1 that is deceased, though don't know if the clock spring would be the same on both of them. I'm in the process of breaking the remaining parts of it up as time permits. Mine does work though as i was using it upto the time the engine ate two of its piston rings. I'm in Milton Keynes, its nearby. The airbag works at least as far as the light goes off, but you'd need to pick that up if you wanted it as you can't send them in the post. If you PM me your vin I can check both of them on Microcat and confirm if the part number is the same if that helps?

I had a 2nd hand one off ebay - it didn't work (same fault as beforehand). I managed to find a new one on ebay for about £35, that went on no problems at all. They are parts that wear, so new is obviously preferable if possible though that might prove impossible. When i did fit mine i first connected it without installing it - this allowed me to prove the first one didn't work, the second one cleared the light as soon as it was plugged in. Until you take the metal clip off the connector (the yellow one with the pins in it that goes into the car loom) it will show continuity as both sides are connected to each other like that (the clip grounds the pins). That said I could get continuity on my broken one. What is possible for test purposes is to bridge the connection where the airbag should be with a resistor - Its possible of course on a vehicle of that age that the ignitior has actually gone bad as the bags are only supposed to be good for approx 10 years usually. I can't remember the exact value you need to do it with, but this would also allow you to rule out the clock spring (same resistor in the end of the car loom before the clock spring). You'd need VCDS to reset the light still though.

It won't work on the engine for the Ford petrols, but it will work on the airbags as I had to use it to reset mine after replacing the clock spring. I've used it more on other peoples VW vehicles than my own. Theres some other modules on the petrols that it will talk to as well, can't remember what off the top of my head though. Clock spring and squib are the same thing as far as i know? (and what he has photographed). Its a case of needing an adaptor - though those aren't expensive - examples below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-II-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS/192097639158 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-FD232B-chip-compatible-with-VCDS-LITE/162609555255 You need a laptop of some sort to run it with as well though. Free version of VCDS downloaded from Ross-tech will be adequate for getting codes from the airbag unit (and clearing the error)

the two circuits are seperate - the horn doesn't throw an intermittent fault as it works off slip rings - its less critical than the airbag circuit. The airbag has to be constantly connected else it throws a failure code - and once its thrown a code the light will stay on till its reset (VCDS can do this). I'd suspect the metal clip you show is a grounding clip, probably there to dissipate static electricity. Given the squib moves every time you turn the wheel I'd suspect you have a broken connection in the airbag side - If you remove the metal clip from the end where it plugs into the car, and remove the airbag from the other end you should in theory be able to test for a circuit on this. DO NOT PROBE THE AIRBAG OR CAR CIRCUITS!!! You risk setting the airbag off if you do! I'd suspect the squib wants replacing personally. Best thing to do is unplug the squib and check for the fault codes again, if no new ones appear you confirm your looking at the right bit at least. It may change the wording of the error, but still be looking at the same bag in which case it confirms your looking in the right area at least. First step is going to be to get hold of a lead for vcds lite though.

Best bet with those (think its the type that uses the spare tyre pressure) is to drop the pressure in the tyre down to around 10psi before you start. I tend to just use the 2 person option though you need the second person who can follow what needs doing to get that to work.

You should still have brake fluid coming out of the nipple, even if it was leaking. You might be best to take the fluid hose off the slave cylinder and check you are getting fluid down to it. Don't lose the wire clip when you take it off though! If you put a plastic bag over the end of the pipe you should be able to get someone to pump the pedal and check whats coming down the line - if its air then most likely either you've got a hose come off somewhere before it enters the master cylinder, or its empty? You mention oil, just to be clear as its hard to tell from here, you are putting brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir aren't you? If your not sure take a photo of where your adding fluid to and what your adding to it?

Sounds like it might want a set of glowplugs?

I can't find the same interface available anymore - The official fcom one is $300. Not sure if it needs access to incode/outcode functions till I try it, looks like you have to pay for access if thats the case.

Can't see any other way it would be able to push air out either - that would suggest both are fine. The OP may find it easier to remove the scuttle panel to fill the brake fluid reservoir back up.