BrianH

Mark 1 Zetec trim's not exactly plush either, but I'll be sorry to see it go, it will be liking losing an old friend. The Galaxy has only let me down once in 14 years, or more precisely the other half... went to pick the kids up from school, and it wouldn't start when she went back to it. Towed it back and the damn thing started on the drive... relay 30 was the culprit. In 14 years, I don't think that was bad at all, many a time we have gone sailing past broken down cars of a much newer vintage on our 500+ mile holiday drives. Exactly the fault i brought mine with - Didn't know the cause at the time although did know it had a fault of that description. Have had the relay go again since but just replaced it with the original that was re soldered and its been fine since. Only times mine has broken down as such its not been major - Clutch that gave up after a particually hilly journey (it was slipping beforehand anyway), alternator that failed in the most awkward place it could have chosen to do so (Belfast - the replacement came from Huddersfield on next day shipment, not really what was wanted when I had 250+ miles to drive back home) and a brake calliper bolt that came out as it obviously didn't get done up properly being the only recovery reasons in over 110k of mileage being not bad at all.

Oh, you noticed that! :lol: Not sure what to do at the moment, there's 3 cars on the drive and something has got to go. The old Galaxy is getting a bit long in the tooth now and it needs a few quid for the MOT... main problem is a cracked windscreen. It's a shame to scrap it, it still runs and drives perfectly and the body is still presentable, especially for an 18 year old car with 160,000 miles... on the other hand, it's a 18 year old car, with an 18 year old interior, etc., etc.. It might get a reprieve for a while, I'm not sure yet. If I can happen upon a cheap secondhand windscreen, I might bung it through a test. Otherwise, it doesn't look too good. It would certainly be the end of an era, after owning the old bus 14 years. Mines in a similar situation, windscreen is fine in my case but the engine is barely running anymore, its losing a lot of compression back into the sump - so much so if you take the oil filler off oil is thrown up out of it, and it is sending oil back up the crankcase breather into the airbox, needs some TLC after 238k and much the same issues with the state of the interior being a) Tired and b) Aspen spec so not particularly comfortable.

Your signature doesn't sound too promising!

Thats definitely the case on the mk1 you swap the battery live and ignition live wires over. MK2 probably the same

you can normally test shocks by bouncing the car - open the boot and get a couple of people to sit on the back end, then stand up and watch if the car bobs up and down or bounces back and then settles down quickly. How big are the tyres on the wheels you have - are you sure they aren't fouling the wheel arch etc? (should be able to spot scrape marks in the mud underneath the wheel arch area if so). Blue paint might signify spring stiffness, don't know. Might be worth taking some photos of the underneath and posting them up? might give others a clue so they can have some input??

Might be a daft sounding question but are you towing with the Galaxy as well? Is it on the right wheels/tyres? (mk2 should be 16 inch ones AFAIK) Could you expand on the comment about bottoming out - can you actually see whats coming into contact with the road(?) Or do you mean something else? Or some sort of sound your getting? The rear drop links may make some clunking sounds if they are worn out - should be able to test with the car lifted up though. I've had what i would class as a heavy load in the back of my mk1 without issues with the suspension - rear seats removed and back loaded up with heavy boxes to the window level no issue at all (the seats obviously are quite heavy by themselves anyway, but your load described above doesn't sound like it should cause a problem). As far as I'm aware spring assistors are only really needed when your into towing heavy trailers or a Caravan. Usually when your pushing the limit of what the towing car can manage (the Galaxy's train weight isn't that high from whats been said previously) Spring isolators are not the same thing either, though I think you realise that from your post?

doubt you can change it without removing the master cylinder, though its not the worst job to do so anyway. I'd check that you don't have a split hose first - they commonly split towards the ends where it joins the servo. If it is the servo you may find it stops when you press the pedal slightly - the rear seal can leak sometimes. you can actually see the seal causing the problem from the pedal area.

Might be an idea to look at the diesel filter - if its blocked up that could cause the pump to strain and eventually fail. You might get more visibility of your issue in the tech help section than here though.

It would be a mk3 What i've done on trying to identify the right sensor on the mk1 when i had similar issues (mine would vary anywhere between off the scale and stone cold within a few seconds - you could literally watch it sweep the entire gauge width) was to unplug the temp sensors to discover which one caused the gauge to drop to zero. Sods law it was the more awkard one of the two in my case to remove (the one at the bottom of the housing). But that should give you an idea where the sensor you need is, which makes it easier to locate on a parts diagram. Alternatively the other way to find the culprit is to ask which sensor drives the gauge from where your buying the replacement sensor from. Then you know what the connector looks like (provided they give you the right one of course)

There was nothing visibly wrong with the rear springs on my Focus but they allowed it to sag at the back, replacing them made a very noticeable difference. It was sitting low enough that one of the drop links got decapitated by a lump on a friends driveway. I'd suspect its just the springs. Your probabbly best to fit the springs and compare to see if it sorts the problem. Any of the items on either end if they are allowing movement will usually be quite noisy - knocking sounds etc.

Its either 3 or 5 I can't remember, its not many either way, and at least its possible to post pics here, unlike a lot of other boards

It would also be an idea to look at it ASAP while you can get it open still (with the foglights switched on) as getting it open later can be more of a problem.

click more reply options and it should all come clear from there. Think you have to have a few posts before it will let you upload pics but you should be ok?

Take both and you can have some peace in one whilst she drives the other! Yes refrigerant has smaller molecules than air so it can leak when air will hold. The seals would be fairly cheap compared to replacing the pipe - unless you can get hold of a new one they tend to be very expensive.

It might be - The only way to tell is to change them and try regassing it again. Its recommended to use some of the compressor oil (PAG oil) to lubricate the seals as the pipe goes in. I'd suggest if its one of the connectors with a spring snap ring to secure it together that you replace the spring as well at the same time as they don't always hold as well once its been apart.

Looks to me like you've lost half the metal bit of the connector. You might get it to stick back in place but doubt it would be particually reliable. I'd be tempted to see if you could bypass the connector and just thread a wire through it (you might need to drill a hole to do so through an empty area) and connect the two sides together. Ideally you'd want one join to be in the door itself, and the other side behind the door pillar connector so they aren't being bent every time you open the door.

Theres a retaining ring around the outside of the socket that holds it in place - it may be that yours has broken, or just needs putting back together correctly, my drivers door one is a bit broken like that. I found you could get a hand round the back of it and hold it in place to help. MK1 in my case (you can actually get a finger onto the back of the socket without removing anything if i remember correctly). You might need to remove some of the fusebox covers to help.

Broken wires in the door gaiter - most likely the drivers door given the symptoms, but wouldn't be a bad idea to check all of them including the boot.

What i'd suggest to find out why its going into limp mode is to get hold of a vcds lite cable (ebay should find you one for less than an tenner, Vag com cable is the same thing) and a laptop. Use the free version of VCDS from ross tech and see what codes it throws up, then search on here for the codes. With any luck you will have something to work with then.

Might also help to show where the other end of it ends up - looks to me like it heads to the radiator area, so its likely connected to the condensor for the Air con. Your photo is too close for me to tell. Either way if its air con then thats not your turbo problem. There is a common hose to fracture on the diesel varients, I'd suspect the one your have broken is that hose as far as i can tell.

Looks to me like an air conditioning hose - Does your Aircon actually work? Appearance looks like a power steering hose, but its too clean to be that, and if it was broken you'd know that wasn't working already?

You have a mk3 not a mk1/2 - different vehicle completely. The bonnet switch may be the cause - i've had it on other fords, and would be a lot cheaper to rule out first. Might be worth a post in the mk3 area to see if anyone else has ideas. Earlier fords (not sure if yours is the same) had a self test function - usually triggered by pushing one (any one) of the alarm switches a few times within 10 seconds (think it might have been 10 pushes within 10 seconds), this should allow you to test each sensor in turn. Alternatively disconnecting the bonnet switch should stop the alarm at least in the short term while you try and fix it (though you won't be able to arm the alarm either, should still be able to lock the car though)

I'd have thought that this one is the most important 17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Open/Short to Ground That to me sounds like a bad electrical connection of some sort - either a damaged wire shorting out on something or just not connected, or a completely duff sensor thats gone short circuit. Where was the one you plugged back in. Auto box fluid wise - I'd give it a go yourself, if its black and tar like its past its best. You have the software for checking the fluid temp - some details on the other site here with screenshots http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-automatic-transmission-fluid-replacement-level-check-(ag5-09b)/#sthash.uosOrh2L.dpbs On the fluid question you need to find something suitable - Eurocarparts lists a gulf product > http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Galaxy_1.9_2004/p/car-parts/transmission-parts/car-transmission/transmission-oils/?522772221&1&48e0fe387d5cff00d2e21ea2f0a6b49be572d929&000769 which suggests its suitable, but i'd advise checking with the manufacturer before you decide (the spec of the original fluid is on here if you search for it, confirmation of if that fluid or something else meets the same spec is what your after, or which one of their products is suitable). Alternatively ask the supplier to recommend. Generally buying a larger quantity will work out cheaper (4 or 5 litres rather than a single litre). 5 litres should do a single drain and refill. You may need to do it twice to get as much out as you can, but even swapping half of it out should help somewhat

No idea on the turbo spray, its not unknwon for what is referred to as an Italian tune up to help with turbo issues though. Gearbox codes - the various faults might be faulty components, might be down to sensors not seeing fluid where it should do. Suggest as you say check/topup fluid as first step, then clear the codes with VCDS and see what comes back. Codes wise - some of these may be old stuff from someone elses messing about (unplugging stuff for whatever reason with the engine running, or starting it with them disconnected). Best way to tackle them is take a note of them (as you have above). Clear them and then see what comes back (you may have to cycle the igntion to get them to be seen again). Anything that comes back up then needs looking at - the first one searching here comes back with this 17569 - Manifold Temp Sensor (G72): Open or Short to Plus P1161 - 35-00 - - I think that would be part of the airflow sensor (contained in the pipe going from the air filter to manifold) - not an uncommon item to be unplugged in diagnosis to rule it out so may not actually be faulty. 17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Open/Short to Ground P1156 - 35-00 - - Probabbly another part of the same sensor, or may be in the pipework - same applies as above (doubt its hose related as its an electrical fault detected) Can't find anything for 17565 but may be the same thing as well The limp mode may be being caused by the gearbox so i'd have a look there first at the fluid before you do anything beyond clearing the codes, might be an idea to have a look at the connectors to the maf sensor though as well. Check your brake lights work, but if its coming up with an implausable signal message thats usually a sign that the switch is knackered - its supposed to be fairly easy to change, Does the glowplug light flash?

Check the com port allocated in device manager on windows, set it to com4 or lower to start with (any one not already used by something else there should be fine). You also need the ignition on (position 2) but doesn't need to have engine running. Screenshots of the error your getting might help (printscreen key on keyboard then paste into paint and save) Another thought that occurs - What cable have you brought? If its an ebay listing can you find an item number for it or a link to it?