BrianH

Or click like this - My quota appears to be 0 for that!

Toyo tyres (Proxis i think they were called) appear to be pretty good from my experience, Maxxis aren't bad either.

FYI - the forum is a bit broken at the minute, when it says saving post its probably actually done it, thats why you've ended up with multiple copies of the reply. Its not you!

Don't know if the mk3 is the same, but there is a bearing on the drivers side driveshaft (it supports it just above the inner cv joint). Are you sure it isn't related to driveshafts and is definitely from the engine? (the bearing is screwed to the back of the engine roughly in the middle of the car if its the same as other fords?)

One pipe that can split and not easily be noticed is the one running to the brake servo - this can leak quite badly without noticing the lack of assistance on the brakes, so if you haven't already checked it that is worth looking at. The injector harness can be problematic on some of the diesels, not sure if yours is one without looking, but this usually logs codes in VCDS so that may be worth a look if you have a lead?

Just checked - I noticed it on 24th November as per the other thread about it.

Its been that way for a month or more now. Anyone know who can have a look at it? I know Greggers is aware of it being a bit broken as well.

Hi Brian, thanks for reply - the current tyres, bought with car, are Michelin Primacy (2 well worn will need changing soon) 215/55 16 extra load (97) variously H V & W at the 4 corners; I tend to run them towards the high end of the recommended pressure ranges - partly to save fuel, and partly 'cos I never know what I'll be carrying - I know that this can make the ride harsher but it beats constantly adjusting them as loads change..... I do know that they are not "skinny rubber bands" but the 15" rims would give an extra 5/8" (about 15%) of rubber/air between metal and road ......... maybe it's not enough to make a significant difference, but I thought I'd try it since I had the wheels anyway ............ Thanks again, Phil If you have them it makes sense to try though as you've found they won't fit yours unfortunately. I'd expect them being branded tyres and the right rating would be ok. It may be down to suspension wear, which the MOT would probabbly highlight if severe enough once its due. Might be worth checking drop links. It might be worth dropping the pressures a bit otherwise to see if it improves, colder temperatures and higher pressures would make the tyres much less flexible? Hi Brian, thanks again for your thoughts, has anyone else got anything to add I wonder ..... specifically indeed any way to solve the 15" rims onto the later MKII front brake discs & calipers ??? surely someone else must have tackled this (and I hope resolved it!). Phil The only thing i can think of is if its down to misalignment causing your harsh ride - Either due to incorrect tracking etc, or worn bushes somewhere on the suspension. I can tell you the manual for the car does say not to use the older wheels on the mk2 though it doesn't say why, but obviously if the brake assembly is too big to fit inside the wheel (and its close with the mk1 on a 15" wheel to the outside of the caliper anyway) then I doubt it would be possible.

common issue - its usually the bigger leads casuing it to overheat causing it. Many posts on here about it, basic fix is to repair the damage to the wires and solder the connectors to the wire. You have a mk2 not a MK3 btw. If the wire to the alternator is particually damaged you may have to replace it, again soldering the ends of it to the connectors should resolve the issue.

If its not that the common issue on the Galaxies is the door pillar wiring IF its a MK2. broken wires in either the boot gaiter or doors may be causing something to switch on. The real question with this being a 2006 vehicle is if its a mk2 or mk3 - Easiest way to tell is are you able to remove the rear seats leaving a flat floor? If so its a mk2, if not its a mk3 (believe they only fold down on a mk3 but in any event the rear floor isn't flat when they are removed) I suspect its a mk3 by the fusebox you've posted, doesn't look like the mk2 to me?

Yes I'd agree its the clock spring (its the bit that flexes back and forth every time the wheel turns, so your test does point to that part being at fault.) I think the letter at the end just refers to the revision - if you look at this link > https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/7023508-swag-clockspring-airbag they all appear to be interchangeable. Later may be better, though no guarantee it isn't off a car thats had life as a taxi etc. I don't have anything handy to decode the VAG type numbers to confirm this though. If yours has steering wheel controls for the stereo it may require a different spring, the best idea would be to get a look at the current part to confirm. Microcat shows 4 different part numbers for the MK2 Galaxy depending on what kind of traction control is fitted, stereo controls etc and model year. You don't mention which you have, but I'd suspect its a MK2 of some kind.

Hi Brian, thanks for reply - the current tyres, bought with car, are Michelin Primacy (2 well worn will need changing soon) 215/55 16 extra load (97) variously H V & W at the 4 corners; I tend to run them towards the high end of the recommended pressure ranges - partly to save fuel, and partly 'cos I never know what I'll be carrying - I know that this can make the ride harsher but it beats constantly adjusting them as loads change..... I do know that they are not "skinny rubber bands" but the 15" rims would give an extra 5/8" (about 15%) of rubber/air between metal and road ......... maybe it's not enough to make a significant difference, but I thought I'd try it since I had the wheels anyway ............ Thanks again, Phil If you have them it makes sense to try though as you've found they won't fit yours unfortunately. I'd expect them being branded tyres and the right rating would be ok. It may be down to suspension wear, which the MOT would probabbly highlight if severe enough once its due. Might be worth checking drop links. It might be worth dropping the pressures a bit otherwise to see if it improves, colder temperatures and higher pressures would make the tyres much less flexible?

Blocked filter is a possibility, particularly if its got water inside with the colder weather. Also possible you have an air leak in the pipe further up, in which case it won't suck it though either. Is there a manual pump (looks like a bulb in the line) on the inlet to the filter? I've not seen a mk3 but other diesels have had similar, if so then disconnect the feed into the filter and see if you can pump anything up, then try the same with it connected, that should tell you if its blocked.

What size tyres do you actually have on it? My MKII is on 215/55/r16 97y and I can't say as its any worse than the MK1 (which was on 15" alloys 195/65 r15 95v tyres). Neither are the skinny rubber band type, and are the recommended sizes for the car (yours should be on a sticker inside the fuel filler cap door if you haven't found it already). I still have the mk1 wheels and tyres, but haven't got round to seeing if they will fit mine yet (hope they will, as there were 4 relatively new tyres on them). I've also had cheap tyres on the MK1 and can confirm they can be bloody awful - Much worse than other cars when cheaper no-name make ones are fitted even if they are upto the correct load rating (the load rating if your not already aware on these is higher than most tyres of those sizes, and if they aren't upto the required load rating the handling suffers somewhat, they also don't last as long as they will wear unevenly).

Would agree with the above, probably wants one of these kits fitting https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-LOCK-REPAIR-KIT-FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-FOR-FORD-GALAXY-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN/322430361103?fits=Model%3AGalaxy&epid=1158342365&hash=item4b1258de0f:g:ZFUAAOSwN2VZV7XL The paddle is a crap VW design - I've replaced 4 of them on cars for people I know. its usually the cold weather that seems to cause them to fail. You might be able to use the passenger lock if you have one to get it to allow you to program the key, not sure? The handles on both doors with locks are actually the same, so you can swap them over to get round it, though its a bit of a faff to do so. Alternatively remove the drivers door handle and use a flat screwdriver in the bit the paddle should go into to operate the lock to program the key. Though if your in there that far you might as well replace the paddle bits.

Mine haven't worked for at least 2 years now - I can't even select the notification method!. Yep - People posting to old topics take pot luck now if anyone can see their posts - if they are the last post made they are in with a chance until someone posts another post. I've had a new member send me a pm about a problem as well.

If its that (and not having owned a diesel that has one) then i'd expect it to slowly get worse. They have had the benefit of seeing the car though so its possible they could be right? I'd try ruling it out before considering replacing it though, as they aren't a cheap part to replace.

Could be either the front tyres are inbalanced, or not upto the job, Easiest way to tell would be to swap the front and rear tyres over. If the tyres are underrated (the correct rating should be shown on the inside of the fuel flap depending which model you have depends whats correct) but generally speaking they need XL rated tyres - its the load rating you'd need to check. Otherwise its possible its a steering issue caused by worn parts - bushes a likely possibility, can be worth lifting the front wheels and checking if you have any free play there.

Does this mean I insert the key, turn it three times but the total time of this has to be between 0.5 and five seconds? It means make sure you hold the key on the 'unlock' position for more than half a second each time, do this three times within the five seconds. Just use a steady rhythm - unlock, rest, unlock, rest... etc., etc.. I finally got mine working with the replacement fob I got hold of - the original one has never worked since i got the car. Following the instructions didn't quite work though for some reason. The way i got it to work is as follows Do the bit with turning the key - if you watch the drivers door led it should light up solid after your third turn. If it doesn't, then its likely you have either got broken wires in the drivers door loom, or a broken latch (switch not working). Or you haven't done it right! (its just a case of turn it and hold for about 1/2 second or more each time, don't rush it, it should turn through to 90 degrees away from where you put the key in first, if its not turning that far it may be that its not pressing the switches for some reason) Once the light goes solid hold the unlock button - the led should go off for approx 1/2 second then come back on, keep holding (took around 10 seconds on mine to do it). Once the light goes out try the button and see if it locks - then try unlock etc.

Couldn't see pics plz... can you upload them again Pics that old on here I don't think are available unfortunately. Give the original post was in 2004 unless someone has a copy of them they could post your not going to get much luck unfortunately. If it doesn't work, first thing to suggest is get hold of a VCDS lead and scan it with VCDS lite, see what its finding wrong. If the answer to your issue isn't clear once you know what it says is wrong start a new post about it - the forum is a bit broken at the minute, so your post will be pages down the forum and not visible other than in the most recent post field.

If its a mk1 (which it won't be if its a 2005 model, but could be if its actually a p reg) then its probabby fuse 19 to do the central locking itself. If its a MK2 which i think is more likely, then the only one shown in Haynes is also fuse 19 for the central locking, as far as I know this is the only supply to it. If its a 96 model it may have the older fuseboard layout - its not unusual to find the manual and car doesn't match up on these for some reason as mine didn't either in which case it may not be 19. There isn't as far as i can see a seperate fuse for just the remote locking, so does the central locking work around all the doors (either use the key in the lock, or sit inside and operate the handle to the locked position)

Hmm, that begs the question why it didn't show a failure with 2 blown tail lights then and a disconnected high level brake light (though that one may not be monitored at a guess being an LED). At least its behaving as expected so can tick that "fault" off the list of things to fix. Just leaves the remote for the locks, non-moving rear passenger window and iffy looking wires to the fusebox to sort then! Cheers guys!

Can anyone with a mk2 with the bulb failure detection confirm if it should stay on till you press the brake pedal? I've replaced all the blown bulbs i found on the car and still keep getting it light up when the car is first started, goes out as soon as the brake pedal is pressed and stays off. Suspect its either hatch wiring or a dodgy bulb somewhere not making contact as it should do, but would like to confirm if others get the same thing happening or if its supposed to do it.

This might explain better - you may want to put your vehicle details into their website though http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ford-galaxy-1.9-diesel-2002/product/drive-shafts-509/drive-shaft/DS514

Its called the intermediate driveshaft i think. There is a bearing bolted to the chassis by two studs, held on with nuts. It just pulls out of the gearbox once you have the other driveshaft out of it (might need a sharp tug to get it out as the spring clip will hold it a bit) You will release the oil from the gearbox if you remove it If this link works its the bit labelled 13 http://catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l=bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTIyMjV8fGNhYmJyPT1WWXx8dGhrPT0wfHxzdD09NjB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiR2FsYXh5IFZZIDIwMDAtMjAwNiIsIjQwIjoiQiBGcm9udCBBeGxlIExlc3MgQnJha2VzIiwiNTAiOiJCMDEgRnJvbnQgQXhsZSBMZXNzIEJyYWtlcy5TdXNwZW5zaW9uICZhbXA7IERyaXZlIFNoYWZ0cyAtIEZyb250IiwiNjAiOiJCMDEwMTUgRHJpdmUgU2hhZnQgLSBGcm9udCBXaGVlbCBEcml2ZSJ9fHxhbHBoYT09Qnx8Z3JvdXA9PUIwMXx8c2VjdD09QjAxMDE1fHxzZXQ9PVZZQjAxfHxpbWc9PUcwMDIxMDUwMTF8fGYxMj09NDIxMDU0NCsw