chromedome

On the Mk2 the Gearbox ECU wiring has been known to wear through and cause erratic gearbox behaviour. It could be that by unplugging everything the ECU has reset itself........................................but why fail in the first place? It may be worth getting an independant gearbox speciaist to look at it. If they discover any problems you can then take their findings back to the dealer and claim under the warranty.

Could be an immobiliser problem. Have you changed the battery in the key or have you dropped it and it has come open. If so the PATS chip could have fallen out, car won't start without it.

Maybe the extra pressure has popped the rear exhaust box.

The glow plug light also doubles up as an engine management light. You will probably need someone with diagnostic software to see what's causing the problem.

The tubes are known to get blocked. Use a piece of net curtain wire and gently push through to clear the blockage. The believe the tubes run down the A pillars.

Is it a diesel? Do you have a PD Engine and if so is the oil to VW505.01?

The switch on the brake pedal is a favourite one. It may just be out of adjustment. Do a search for brake light switch.

How did you reconnect the rear washer pipe. Using super glue and a couple of cable ties is the best way or it can pop apart again.

Warped discs are not normally visible with the naked eye, normally checked with a vernier guage. Even slightly warped discs will give wheel wobble when braking at high speed. Not sure about play at the inner end of the track roods, no doubt someone on this forum will give you good advice on that.

I have been Googling most of this evening trying to find some new wiper arms. All I come across is secondhand ones. Does anyone on the forum know where I can buy new wiper arms apart from the main dealer? Thanks.

I chickened out :wacko: and got my local garage to do it. The auxilliary belt was replaced at the same time. The result.............a smooth running system and no chattering.

It looks like part of the air conditioning.

It must be one of the easier things to change on a Galaxy :D . Remove the glove box and you will see it attached to the left hand side of the heater. Make sure you get the controller for climate control and not manual.

It sounds like the "hedgehog" or fan speed controller located on the side of the heater behind the glovebox. I think it is normally coloured green or red and held in place by one screw. It is a common problem, not just Galaxys, and when they fail you can only get high speed fan.

You may have disturbed a coil pack when changing the plugs. Have a look under the bonnet when it is dark and look for signs of arcing.

Yes it's also worth getting the ATF changed or topped up. The level has to be checked when the ATF is at a certain temperature, do a search for more information.

You could try this. Make sure you have your radio code and then disconnect the battery for about half an hour. Reconnect and then try, it may be the gearbox ECU. The wiring between the ECU and gearbox has been known to wear through so check this also.

Send the bill to the garage. :lol:

I will let you know how I get on, I'm sure someone on the forum said it only took him ten minutes.

I have ordered the alternator pulley from GSF on-line. On mine it looks like there is some kind of cap on the front of the pulley, does this need to be prised off to reveal a locking nut? Also is it a left or right handed thread and am I right in saying it is very tight. By the way I have also ordred the Sealey tool for removing the pulley. Sorry for all the questions, it's been a while since I've done any home mechanics. Give me a Cortina any day. -_-

From wehat I have read on the forum and elsewhere the tuner chips are a big no no. :blink: You can find companies that can remap at a price. I can understand that you want more mpg but remember this vehicle is a heavy MPV and I would be concerned about tring to get more performance out of it especially with kids in the car.

I would repair the split with duct tape. The other option would be try the dealership.

I think it's the tensioner, large aluminium lump. When cold you can see it really shaking around and you can stop the chattering sound by simply holding it firmly. When the engine running has smoothed you can still see it wiggling about a bit and now you get the odd chirp (I wondered where the budgie went :rolleyes: ). I looked at the alternator pully and it appears to be running true. Thanks for the input.

I could not find this one in the FAQs. My aux belt tensioner "chatters" when the engine is running from cold, after a few seconds the chattering stops as the engine starts to run smoother. Is this a sign of imminant failure or should I get it changed? Thanks in advance for any advice given.

Can you give some vehicle details. It will give other members the information they need to help you.