chromedome

Have you driven the car above 20mph since doing the as this should reset the system. Also check the ABS rings on the CV joints as they are known to break.

I had the same problem on an auto that I owned. Basically the gearbox is going into limp home mode for some reason. Mine was a faulty gearbox ECU however the wiring loom between the ECU and the gearbox has also been known to wear through and short out.

Have you checked that the drainage tubes aren't blocked?

I believe there is a lower gearbox mount which prevents the engine rocking backwards and forwards on acceleration/deacceleration. I think it's called a stabiliser mount, no doubt someone on here will give the correct name. A quick test is the grab the top of the engine and see if it rocks.

Have you tried starting the car whilst wiggling the gear shift in either neutral or park? Sometimes the inhibitor switch has been known to give problems.

I believe the ABS rings are an integral part of the CV joint and therefore this requires replacing as well.

Do NOT undo the bottom screws completely, jus a couple of turns. The bottom screw nearest the wing is a long way down, it is difficult to see and you will need a long screwdriver. Put a thin piece of card under the headlight as you put it forwards and out to protect the paint work on the bumber. The bottom headlight fixings can scratch the paint if you're not carefull.

I can see my drain pipe from the top of the engine bay. I've put an extra piece of pipe on mine. I believe the existing pipe is too short and the water can get behind the bulk head padding.

I know Peterborough is not near you but I found a company that can refurbish the wheels at

Are 19" rim tyres available in extra load. May be worth a check as the Galaxy needs them.

It could be that your transmission fluid was low in the first place which can give the symptoms you have. Topping it up resolved the problem maybe? The transmission fluid level has to be checked when the fluid is at a certain temperature so is best left to the "experts".

If you have no roof vents then you don't have dual air conditioning. Can you hear the compressor clutch engage (a fairly loud click) when you switch the a/c on?

Could be a seizing caliper. Given time the piston could fully retract so your brakes seem ok. With continous braking the piston may not retract quickly enough thus allowing excess pedal movement. Have you also checked that the pads are not jamming in the calipers allowing free movement of the piston before taking load. As previously mentioned, could be master cylinder, the seals have been know to "flip" if the brake fluid is pushed back into the system during brake disc replacement. Excess fluid should be let out of the bleed nipple to prevent this and to protect the ABS system.

If you use a couple of halves of a clothes peg you can prise the clock out without scratching the surrounding dash.

Remove the middle box first, I think they interlock.

I found it, here it is just in case someone else is interested http://en.openobd.org/vw/sharan_7m.htm#09

I've searched on the forum but I can't find my answer even though I've seen it in the past. Using VAG-COM I know you can change the amount of time the indicators flash when you only operate the stalk part of the way. I use this a lot when overtaking but they only flash three times. I would like to change this to four or five times. Please could someone direct me through the VAG-COM options. Thanks

I haven't got a seat belt warning light...........

Check for dry CV joints.

Check the wiring to the tailgate. Check inside the rubber boot between the vehicle and the tailgate, wiring cracks, breaks and short circuits. Known problem.

Please remember that the battery tray supports the engine.

Does it feel like the whole car wobbles? It could be dry CV joints which is quite common. Not sure about on de-acceleration though.

You have all got me wondering if I should change the belt or not. :huh: The mechanic I use is good at his job but does the belt really need changing in the first place?

The Galaxy is going in for the cambelt change next month. All rollers and tensioner being done at the same time. Thanks for all your replies and advice.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll have a word with my mechanic and get him to change it, like you imply cheaper than a new engine. Word you use genuine Ford/VW parts?