xavier

You sold the old girl then?

tee hee hee!! lovin the tagline gregers! yeah chromedome please continue to stop by, no substitute for 9 years galaxy experience!

Just shy of

See other post, the disconnecting heater control unit brought it back to life.

normally the ring cracks which allows it to turn on the driveshaft, though the cause of the ring breaking is sometimes the sensor failing (they rust internally and swell up, electrodes that do the sensing get pushed out and onto the ring). I'd suggest you replace both if your mechanic will allow you to provide the parts. New reluctor rings can be found on ebay (from dodthebod) as can sensors. I replaced a sensor 3 years ago with one from ebay and it's still fine. Euro car parts is

I've just had this with my heater, checked the fuses and all seemed fine, so removed the heater control unit and re-fitted, and working heater again! Symptoms were only the blower was working, otherwise the heater was dead. The heater didn't illuminate when the head lights were on and you couldn't hear the servos move when selecting different blower directions and temp out of heater vents was the same.

I picked one up of the bay and amazingly it worked. Seems to be playing up a bit this year though. I would suggest checking if the aux water pump is working, as I recall when I replaced the brushes in mine it helped considerably with the heat in the car, previously I'd only start to get heat when the engine was at temperature. After replacing the brushes it got noticeably warmer quicker. Actually, seeing as we're on the subject, noted today in the way into work cold air coming out of the front vents. At lunch-time I checked there was coolant in the header tank (there was) but on the way home once again no heat. However towards the end of my journey I realised the heater controls were unusually dark, no lighs on ac button either when on (not that I have working ac). So, looks like the panel is dead, current suspicion is something was dislodged when it was in the garage the other week (they adjusted the brakes under the dash somehow). The fans do come on though, am I barking up the wrong tree?

Hmm. Mr Haynes seems to suggest the bolt for the balljoint needs done on the ground, I'll yield to your superior knowledge though as since that's what I ended up doing it makes me feel better! Couldn't really see how an extension would help me when I was under there, though I do think a finer tooth mech on my torque wrench would have helped. With the front bolt, wasnt sure about the torque then 90 deg as that's a stretch bolt, and suggested to me it should be replaced. Oh, checked the car over after it came back, it's away back to the garage to get the brake pipe routing modified, some bright spark when deciding to not use the pre-drilled brake pipe holes routed the pipes under the chassis, then wondered why the undertray didn't go back flush.

I picked up a set of impact sockets from machine mart, they have a decent range of sizes and I can use them with the cheap (but handy) 12v impact gun I have.

I was looking at the powerhand ones for about

so is the cap OK in the end? I'm also leaking water from there but am getting abit of pressure build-up, however given that water should be incompressible it suggests to me I have an airlock somewhere.

I've got a gunson bleeder used for the rear caliper, for flaring tools it looks like you get what you pay for. Kicking myself though as a month ago I paid for the Focus to get 3 pipes done, figured at

Well, this year's failure list reads : Ball joint (other side) Brake pipes (front to rear and fronts) I've got a wishbone already after last year's debacle with the ball joint so should be straightforward, but how tricky are the brake pipes?

Fix the secondary pump first, clear the heater codes and see if it fires up.

Note on the switch off and on, if it's dark and you're headlights are on, they will go out when you switch off (as I found out once!)

Go to halfords website, put in your reg and see what it recommends. I think that battery will be suitable though.

Do the autos have a rev counter? Can you see / hear it switching up and down ratios?

Not sure how easy it is for an auto lock-smith to program a new key if you don't have any, thought this would be a dealer only job?

Hmm. Are the fans on all the time or when it gets hot? If they're like the 1.9, there's a sensor that operates the fans that's in the radiator, so I'd imagine they're getting hot and you're getting coolant flowing through them. Furthermore I'd expect there to be a decent flow of hot coolant as the fans would switch off once they had cooled the coolant in the rad (so it must be getting replaced). Where was the temp sensor you replaced located? Could there be an air lock at that position? For you to overheat a car with a working coolant system it must be getting pushed hard. Is the auto diff changing up / down correctly?

Timpson can cut a spare key for you and clone the PATS chip,

Think you misread Brian : As I only have 1 key how do i get a 2 nd key to work ?

Check this thread for a pic of what you're looking for : http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22594-key-transponder/page__p__164188

I feel your pain, when I was concreting in new fence posts I thought I'd accidentally set my only key in with one of the posts. If you can't find the chip I don't think it's a new ecu (at least I hope not!) but it'll be

According to turbodynamics website they have one for

Hi can anyone confirm the correct torque for tightening said rad fan switch, I've followed the figure mr haynes gives then realised it's for a petrol rather than the TDI. The sensor is still weeping despite me nipping it up a few times. Sensor was new as is the copper washer.