xavier

The Mk1's had a thermostat cover on the block, not sure if the mk2 has the same. I'd check there's not a thermostat in there if you have it.

Update on this, have replaced the sensor but no joy. Plus point is I've discovered the hose from the thermostat to rad isn't the one I thought it was and remains cold once engine is to temperature. Looking over the history of the car I believe the thermostat has never been replaced so I figured I'd try that this evening. But how are you meant to get the bolts off?! Firstly, can anyone confirm if they're a 10mm outer, or hex (or torx) inner as I can't get anything to fit as solidly as I'd like. And how are you meant to get them off (and back in again!) once you get said socket on the things? I'm thinking remove the alternator but looking at it the aircon pump might need to move too.

just an idea but does your temp guage work ok?

Do you have a "proper" spare or is it a space saver? That could save you 1 wheel. Try a scrap yard or ebay for the other. I've never had a buckled wheel repaired but I've had alloys blasted and refinished and was very happy with the results.

Is it very heavy (can you turn the wheels when stationary?) i.e. like there's no power steering?

It seems to have moved to here : http://www.etis.ford.com/

online or in the depot? Any refunds I've had at the depot have been credited back there and then, mind you these were for small sums for on the shelf bits.

That should be fan, not fine!

Check the rad fine is working. Mine overheated today when towing a caravan, when I checked under the bonnet no fan running. Wouldn't have noticed under normal driving I think, just happened after barrelling up an incline on the m-way with the van on the back.

Is it still a Mk2? Could be a couple of things causing the problem, I'd be inclined to replace the pads anyway if you don't have any confidence in them and see if that helps, if not you can start looking further afield.

When was the water pump last changed?

Could be the temperature sensor going, have a look at the FAQ to see how to replace. I wouldn't be thinking head gasket unless you had other symptoms.

I have to ask, did it fix it?

Probably looking at

Just saw Chris's post, what I would say is I did have problems with boil-over when I'd been messing around with the coolant system to fix the aux heater, this is since settled down probably due to having a now working aux heater, and aux heater pump.

Hi Tony, How'd you get up to 90 in this weather! There are 2 water pumps, the main enginge one and an extra one to pump coolant to the auxiliary heater in the back. You should hear the aux pump running for a few minutes after turning off the ignition, if there's no sound then the brushes are probably worn away to nothing and need replaced (or replace the whole unit, which is a bit easier but more expensive - see thread in the FAQ). I'm presuming the other water pump was done when the cambelt was changed and so should be fine. Have you had a feel of the hoses to and from the radiator to check if they're both hot (thermostat)?

I've also put a J&R one on mine and it seems fine so far, though I don't do a lot of miles. There was a pinhole in the old cv rubber (think I might have done it when changing ABS sensors) so have kept the old shaft to replace the cv rubber in the summer at my leisure. Would agree it's simpler to replace the whole shaft than just the joint, my only issue with the JR replacement is I didn't have a suitable socket for their replacement hub bolt.

What were the symptoms you're experiencing? I'm thinking my clutch might need done (car is at 108k) as I can hear what can only be described as a scuffing sound occasionally.

I had a non remote key done recently from Timpson and it was

This youtube video shows the gasket replacement, and no extra rubber washers, and appears identical to mine. Think I just leave the rubber washers off now.

Hi, Bit of a long shot this question. Replacing the rocker cover gasket and I have 10 small rubber washers included with the new gasket. Mr Hanyes suggests the old ones should be checked and renewed when replacing gasket, but I don't appear to have any currently so am baffled where they should go. I think they should be placed on the cover bolts prior to screwing back in place, but haven't been able to confirm this. Does anyone know (or if they have access to TIS, check?). Thanks in advance! Car is a 2002 Mk II focus, 1.8 petrol.

I tried the filling her up thing as a long shot and still working for me, maybe the pipe degrades part-way into the tank and can't pick-up the same. Re the wiring, how about just cleaning away the oxide and wrapping some self-aligning tape around the wire? suppoidly better than using insulating tape as water shouldn't get past it.

How full is your diesel tank? I installed a second hand unit recently that seemed to work fine then started to belch grey smoke. I couldn't believe it was the heater, as it sounded like it was trying to start and the smoke suggests the glow plug was getting hot. Anyway, filled up with diesel and problem went away. Think there's either a problem with the pick-up in the tank for the heater or with the dosing pump (though I can hear it clicking).

If the VNT mech was free then you probably didn't need to innotech it. Mine was siezed solid. I'd be checking for a vaccum at the VNT end. VAGCOM might let you test the actuator though this may only be available on the registered version.

Sorry, not able to give you a price but I'd shop around for a couple of prices. Try mobile mechs too.