xavier

silverbeast, is that also a problem for the petrol variants rather than diesels? One question from me, what were the 3 codes?

I had this on my focus. Would also lose power periodically on the m-way and the speedo would drop to zero, then come back after 20 secs or so. Turned out to be the speed sensor in the gearbox (apparently a common fault). worth a google further anyway. Garage I took it to tried cleaning the connectors as sometimes that's the problem but it still happened, was fine after sensor replaced. Oops, just realised the date, hopefully this helps someone, sometime...

Air lock in the system? Does the heater stay on for any length of time or does it shut down quickly? Fire up VAG COM and monitor the temps in the heater would be the starting point.

I cut the wires to the brushes and soldered the new ones to the old leads. Think I have a pic somewhere. Need to learn how to upload them at some point! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/25084-secondary-water-pump/ There ya go, check towards the end of that thread, will also should show the cocktail sticks holding the springs back to aid refitting.

yozza mine seems to behave if I keep the tank topped up. I put a replacement unit in, fired up no problems. After a week started getting white smoke, after filling her up again now seems ok. Worth a try anyway! If it smokes with a full tank Then you're looking at replacing the glow plug or burning screen / gauze.

Yes, the pump bushes normally last about 80K miles. See if you can hear the pump with the bonnet open, though the noise of the clattery engine might drown it out if it was there. Biggest clue is the overtemp fault in my opinion, I'd take the pump out and strip down to do the brushes if you're so inclined (or get a garage to replace the pump if you're not).

Given my experience I'd suggest investing in : 1) a Constant Tension Clip removal tool 2) a box of toothpicks to hold the springs back from the brushes while you reassemble

and the poor chap's probably searching the mkIII board looking for the post he put on earlier. This happened to me in a cavalier, turned out to be a garage had connected the earth lead to the alternator incorrectly after a repair. Electrical systems slowly died (eventually I had to have my passengers wave arms out windows to indicate)!

Re smoking heater, I find mine has problems when the fuel tank is less than 1/2 full. Dosing pump? Anyway my cure is to make sure she's more than 1/2 full for the winter (which is probably a good idea anyway).

I tried the chemical clean, worked for me and freed up VNT mech, but had a limp mode last week so need to have another check of the VNT mechanism.

Both of mine were like that if I remember correctly. One was replaced (split inner and outer boots) and the other was moved to replace the ring for ABS. I'd wait until you change the tyre before looking further at the shafts.

are you actually getting boost? 2K is near the point where the VNT mech starts to close as the engine doesn't need it as much.

removing the driveshafts will give you clearance from below. I'd suggest removing the undertray and checking the action of the vanes using your finger or a spanner (can't recall the exact size, sorry!). That'll confirm if the vanes are coked. I'd be inclined to agree that if you decoked it fully it shouldn't be a problem now, so vaccum lines would be my next call.

I've used the innotec and it's been fine for 6 months. To use it you remove the undertray and disconnect the turbo from the front flexi pipe to inject the stuff in. A bit easier than removing and stripping down the exhaust side of the turbo however if you've got access to those sorts of tools I'd probably go for the full monty, especially if you have an impact gun to get the bolts out the turbo. There's a strip-down guide on this site in the FAQ, though I'd suggest getting a spare oil feed pipe before you start as they can be problematic to get off intact.

Looking on elf's website here (hope link works...) http://www4.total.fr/pdf/elf-lubricants/product-guide/index.htm?startPage=14 The evolution doesn't have the VW505.01 spec however the elf solaris stuff does. There's an email address for questions at the end of the PDF, might be worthwhile emailing them.

Did you have the tracking re-done afterwards?

I got an advisory on mine for crushed sills. Need to get round to fixing that at some point, but for a 12 year old car, I'm not sure I can really be bothered.

Joey P - what engine do you have? If TDI, the main spec you need to check is it meets VW 505.01 spec (think that's right!)

Maybe it was recommended for the petrol. The halfords battery for the diesel's probably one of the biggest there and their cheap one's

Did your wife not use the halfords book thing to look up the correct battery? I thought mine was on the way out but thought I'd try charging it rather than replacing it instead after it went flat after working on the car one weekend. Noticed a big improvement in it. Might be worth a go especially if you tend to do shorter journeys. The charger I got was a halfords fully auto one, looks like it's currently about

Before buying the lead, do you have a lap-top, as the computer needs to be within a metre or so of the car to plug it in. Does it get better if you switch the engine off and restart it?* * Don't do this at night without pulling over first, the headlights go out on the galaxy when you switch it off.

Went with plan b - plumbed it back in to the car, connected it up and gave it a go. Cut out at the 1st attempt but was all-go on the second one. Left it running for 20 mins or so before I switched her off. Let it cool down and bolted everything back up. Also suspect I've found why my coolant level keeps dropping.Tell-tale signs of a leak at the end of the metal coolant pipes where it meets the rubber hoses. Looks like it could just be the clips. I need to change the coolant sometime anyway so will change these at the same time.

discs warped would be my first thought, or possibly stuck caliper. Given the relatively minor cost of discs and pads (if DIY-ing) I'd go for that first.

buy a new shaft

connected it up just to check fault codes. Noted those, then cleared them. Got a different fault code. Cleared that then I could hear the dosing pump clicking and I presume the glow plug was hot as there was smoke coming out of the diesel line connection. Will plug in the diesel line tomorrow and test with a hose. Initial faults were : 5 Faults Found: 01410 - Heater Over-Temp 06-00 - Signal too High 01410 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 06-00 - Please Register/Activate 01410 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 06-00 - Please Register/Activate 65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error 00-00 - - 01409 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 35-00 - Please Register/Activate Then : 1 Fault Found: 01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6) 36-00 - Open Circuit