xavier

You still see the code numbers on the free version, only the description is hidden. The codes can be looked up via google or on the ross tech site for free, it's just a small bit of inconvenience to encourage you to upgrade. The fact you can communicate with the heater is a good sign.

See if you can operate the arm on the VNT mechanism using a spanner, you may find it's siezed open, so you have no boost at low speeds, but once the revs pick up she's fine. If the arm moves freely then check the vaccum hose to the actuator hasn't split.

A few questions if I may: What battery did you put in? Make / model. Is it silver cadmium? Did the light come on after changing the battery? Have you had any work done to the car which would involve removing the alternator or the connections to the alternator? Last alternator warning light I had was due to a poor connection after a garage had changed my water pump and put an electrical connection back on the wrong side of a washer (not galaxy).

I picked up one of the galaxy haynes manuals and will have a look to see if there's a how-to for the condenser in there. Or maybe look at youtube, I seem to be picking up a lot of tips on car repair from there lately!

I looked at that Dave but there didn't seem to be enough clearance to get something in the front of the clip so to speak as the clip is quite far down the body of the headlight. Maybe if I had one with a right-angle at the end? In future I think I will just replace the bulb without disconnecting the cable, I think I could get the light out enough to open the covers and change the bulb without having to disconnect it, of course I won't remember this in 2 years or so and will no doubt be back on here bemoaning the feeble plastic clips!

try adding : removable seems to lower the hit count to the hundreds, also filter on vehicle parts and accessories to exclude the cars themselves. You could also try adding isofix, though it didn't help when I tried it!

Thanks for your reply. I know the condenser is a weak point on the mk2 but didn't realise the mk3's were also succeptible. The garage I took her to didn't recharge the system as it wouldn't hold a vaccum. Thanks for the link, though I'm in Scotland so maybe a bit far away.

How did you disconnect the connector from the back of the lights? I seem to manage to break any clips I come across in the mk 3. Managed to destroy the little clip on my headlamp connector when trying to replace the H7 dipped bulb at the weekend.

Rather than speed, does the growl occur between a certain rev range? If so, can you post the corresponding rev-range. sounds to me like it's low down so might be turbo? Could also be clutch slipping?

Moving from a Mk2 to Mk3 I was looking forward to working aircon but it seems not to be! After the recent warm weather I took the new gal in for a gas recharge, but was told there's a leak. Typical! Can anyone advise if there are any particular problem areas? The car is a Feb 2008 build and doesn't have the rear air-con, it does have climate control (which hasn't indicated any sort of problem). I'm pretty sure it was working when I got the car! Been trying to source a mobile aircon guy to take a look but it's now the 2 months of the year where they're all busy! Thanks!

Here's the thread that comments on greasing a bush inside the steering column. Ten minute job, apparently! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/15285-galaxy-20-tdci-steering-clunkcreaking-resolved/

Would second Chris' comment, I had a similar noise in one of my other cars and it turned out to be one of those nail in plastic feet that are sometimes fitted to cheap cabinets, had got embedded in the wheel and was making the noise.

This question applies to the Mk3 2.0 TDCI.

Hi, Front suspension creaking when turning the steering, looking at some of the forums drop links seems to be the favoured option, or possibly some steering bush?

I should also add, when I changed mine (used car 7 years old, figured it was due) when I pulled the "old" one out it looked pretty much brand new, may or may not have been replaced (previous owner gave me years of history and reciepts none of which included a battery) but suspect after seeing it, it had been.

I got a bosch silver from car parts for less for a very good price, looks like they might be more now, but they're awesome batteries. I posted some pics from when I changed my battery, try not to break the feed to the air box when you do it, there's a tab you can push in with a screwdriver.

Need a bit of force to get it moving. Try just pushing it back first a little bit then winding back in. I used an impact gun on mine. Alternatively replacements seem to be fairly cheaply had on ebay at the moment.

For anyone following this, getting the caliper moving back can require a lot of torque, I used an impact gun to get mine moving, or maybe it was a long ratchet on the socket end, once it was moving I could use the handles on the tool though. On using heat, "something" needs to be open. Either hose off one end or bleed nipple open, you don't want the flex hose bursting, but heat is awesome stuff for getting stuff moving. I purchased a new caliper from ebay which negated a lot of the above, though I would also recommend purchasing a new flexi hose as when I fitted my new caliper it tightened up 180 degrees the wrong way round!

Have you replaced the droplinks? Assuming you have, I replaced the wishbones in mine when I had to do the ball joint, I could not get the ball joint to split or come out of the wishbone so replaced balljoint and wishbone. I'd suggest doing the same. But only after doing the drop links, because they make a racket when they're gone. Also haynes say to tighten up the ball joint when the car is on the ground, there's not a lot of clearance to say the least!

You can bleed the clutch in 5 mins? Takes me 20 just to top up the fluid!

I'm not sure you can just replace the 3kw one with a 5kw one, I think the ecu needs to be able to talk to it. Might be wrong though!

Do you mean whether you actuate the switch up or down all windows only move up? If so it sounds as if an electrical plug is on back to front!

If the wooshing noise is like a wheezing that increases in pitch with revs you're probably hearing the turbo. Might not mean any problems, I could hear mine.

Check the bulbs. I did the fuse thing to no avail and it turned out both bulbs had gone at the same time.

I was in Lidl today and see that they have 12v oil extraction pumps. No idea if they'll be any good but figure for £13 it's worth a shot. Snooze you lose guys!