xavier

Boing! Sorry, couldn't resist. Have had a few ales. The spring maintains some tension in the cable so the ends don't come out. I think. though it's been a while. Will be under there tomorrow doing a cable myself, I'll take a pic if it would help.

my gal failed too, rear handbrake ns not effective, and my indicator bulbs were not yellow enough. Will tackle the handbrake tomorrow, garage reckons it's the cable (I have a spare in the garage), and needs a grease of the old slide pins. If it helps synchro motor factors are open to 3:30 tomorrow.

hard to tell from that angle if it's a hex head or rescess! When I did mine I did the complete shaft as when I started to replace the outer boot the inner one split on me! Figured rather than messing around just take the shaft off. I now have the old shaft in my garage and I plan on putting a new boot on it at some point! Probably when I get told that the current new shaft is leaking. Anyway, when I got the complete shaft it came with a new bolt, however there was a hex recess in the top rather than it being a bolt, as I'd purchased new bolts from fraud I just used those. I do not believe for a second that a garage fixing the boot would use a new bolt however.

On the headlamp bulb, I had my gal fail a couple of years ago as the bulb I had used (from a travel bulb kit that cost £4) was faulty. Your issue may be something like that. Also have you considered swapping fog lamp bulb from one side to the other to get you through the test? Then again, bulbs are cheap.

Are those the glue 'em together ones?

But don't you then have to take the trapazoidial ? joint off to fix it? Sigh, MOT time again. Better get mine in soon I can see it being another fun job of weekends working on the car.

Hi, I'm also looking at getting a mark 3, currently got my eye on a 2008 2.0 tdci. Anything I should be focusing on when looking her over? Oops, should probably add mileage is about 80K

Have we also lost some profile details from the posts, I could swear it used to show the poster's region previously.

Have you checked your oil level?

If you have a ford mate then see if he can get you a print out from the ford internal manuals for the procedure - it'll be far more detailed than any haynes manual.

I have that in mine, fairly sure it'll be needing a new clutch and DMF at some point though I've managed to nurse it for a couple of years. Seems fine when it's warmed up though, which is wierd.

I've seen this problem in a post before - check the archives. Where are you, is it hot? If you're in Tuirkey and it's 41 deg C, it could be vapourisation in the fuel lines. If you're in Grimsby and it's pissing down with rain it's less likely.

cleaned how?

reece, sorry to ask the obvious question, but can't you just take it back to the dealer and get them to fix it.?

I get a noise but think it's the DMF. Not sure the Mk1 has a DMF though!

I think the panel is probably ok then, does it's back-light come on when you put the lights on?

Getting to the upper bolt can be difficult IIRC, lower bolt is simple but I'd suggest an impact driver.

It would be helpful if you could put the model, year and mark in your footer, helps with diagnosis.

Sorry I should add, if the panel has "failed" it'll fail at the setting it was set at when it went, the only thing that will work subsequently is the fan speed. The temp, fan direction (dash, front or feet), recirculation and a/c (if it works which if it's a standard mk2 galaxy it won't) will not light up.

just a quick question from me, when it's dark go out and turn the lights on and see if the heater control panel lights up. If it doesn't it could either be a faulty panel or just need reset. To reset it unplug it (guide again in the FAQ). I had a scary moment recently when the heater failed to work, thought it was the head gasket gone until later at night driving home I realised the panel wasn't lit up. Once I reset it all was fixed (Ito reset it you unplug it, wait 10 secs then plug it back in again).

Awesome, it takes me 3 - 4 hours to remove and re-fit the undertray!

Are you sure it's the bulb? When this happened to mine, the blower direction and temp control stopped working along with the recirculation and a/c buttons, disconnecting the fan control panel electrics at the back then re-installing after 30 secs fixed it. There are instructions on how to do this somewhere.

Ah! Sorry, wasn't clear in my question. What he was saying (I think in a roundabout way) was that Fords have smart charge system and must have a Silver Calcium battery. I could see that applying to the ford engine variants of the galaxy Mk 2 but didn't think it'd apply to the 1.9 engines. However, considering I'm looking to move to a Mk3 at some point soon, I'm probably better getting a silver calcium battery and swapping it into the new motor.

Resurrecting an old topic here. Went to get a new battery for the old gal from costco (had previously got a bosch s5 at a great price from there), and was told they don't do the s5's only the s4's and they're no good for Fords. Something to do with the turbo charge (his words not mine, I assume it's the smart charge stuff maybe). Anyway, they didn't have a 019, but the bosch book said another would do (the biggest they had, can't remember the size) but decided not to bother until I could get confirmation of this charging thing. I suspect it's an issue with a newer Galaxy rather than the old one, and the s4 would be fine?

There's a guy in Glasgow that does turbo refurbs. If you can get someone to remove your turbo you can courier it to them and then they check it over and clean it up, posting it back to get refitted. Not used them myself but a guy I know has.