big_kev

Hi what model cd/radio player do you have.

Happy Birthday.....you young rascal :P

Cruise control on the Tdi is built into the ECU. Could be various things....Brake/Clutch pedal switches are favourite. However could be related to the Throttle switch if this has been changed with the pedal. Easiest way to check is to use Vagcom or similar which should identify the problem.

Don't know a source for the brushes but the blower motor is readily obtainable from scrapyard/ebay etc at a reasonable price. Probably easier to replace the motor.

Check this item in the FAQ http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=7897

Definitely sounds like a duff relay.... Can't remember the number on you model ( 167 maybe ? ) Go tap them one at time and see which it is.....

Should be written on the timing belt cover....somewhere near the Bar code. I wouldn't take the ECP result as being correct...says mine is a 1Z..... .its actually an AHU......close...but no cigar !

If its an Automatic its an AUY engine. If its a manual its either an AUY or an ANU engine.

It should drive fine at 30mph in 4th gear.....assuming no mountain climbing. I have a crappy 90 tdi and it has no problems at 30mph in 4th.

We don't need to know about your love life ;)

You won't need to recode it to his car again.....it will still work.

Can one of the Admins ( we still got any :rolleyes: ) move this into the Mk3 section. Or can any of the Good-Looking Mods do it ?

No they don't open. Originally they were designed to open but because of some daft security rating they had to be non-opening. There may be a possiblity of converting them back to the original design.

The black panel ( ashtray holder ) should just pull out ?

Has your Alternator belt snapped ? This would drive the power steering as well. Possibly also the water pump ( not 100% on this one )....if so your engine would get very hot.

Might be best to recheck your vagcom settings as well, Options should look like pic below....might be different com port.

Hi Sonny , glad to see you back hope all is ok with you now. Would definitely go along with the check the fuse etc on this as the ABS units are pretty solid and extremely unlikely to fail. However if it has then I would think there are plenty available from old scrapped galaxy, Sharans and Alhambras that can be obtained for a few Euro's. Also can you confirm your year and model.

It shouldn't be slow at all. Which version of vagcom are you using ( 3.11 or 4.09 ) or whatever. Check that you are using the correct drivers for the lead. Most likely you require the ftdi drivers see link below and download version 2.06. http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

If you put the car into programming mode and program a single remote it will wipe all others from memory. You have to program the remotes one after the other whilst remaining in programming mode. Put the car in programming mode as per previous ( 3 or 4 turns of key in lock etc ). Whilst in programming mode ....program one key ( press buttons etc )...then do the other key.. whilst still in programming mode.....this has to be done within a few ( 10 ? ) seconds after the first. Do not renter programming mode between programming keys :)

Tell the kids to walk......lazy little ......s

In general a relay is just a big switch that can handle a lot more current than a little switch. The little switch turns the relay on and that then provides power to the head light. If you fed the headlight direct from the switch it would burn out the contacts inside the switch. Vehicle electrics are low voltage and hence high current. House electrics are higher voltage and hence lower current. Power ( watts ) = Voltage ( volts ) x Current ( Amp.s) 60 watt bulb using 12volt supply draws 5 amps. 60 watt bulb using 240volt supply draws 0.25 amps. Hence you can use smaller switches for house mains electrics without needing a relay.

Assuming you are using Vista / Windows 7 you could try lowering the USB latency timer. Go into Control Panel then Device Manager ( or fight your way in if using Vista :) ). Open Ports (Com & LPT ) then Right Click on USB Serial Port (Com3) ......may be different Com number. Go into Properties....then Port Settings then Advanced and change the Latency Timer down from the default of 16ms down to 12ms. Should work ok.... :D

It could be one of several things with the booster heater......usually the glow plug is the favourite. The controller (hedgehog ) for the rear blower is identical to the one in the front and can therefore be swapped to see if the problem is the controller or the blower motor.

Not entirely true.....see result from the urbanDictionary below 1.dumdass 1 n. Corruption of "dumbass", utilized occasionally by mentally challenged AOL users. Use of this word indicates that one is a dumbass.