chrispb123456

Hi If blower does not work on the highest speed setting, check fuse number 4 if that's OK you will need to access the rear heater unit for testing or interrogate with Vag-Com which may save you a lot of time and unnecessary dismantling

Hi Need more information, when you say not working do you mean the blower isnt working, or is blowing cold air. Also Vehicle details please ie, Mk 1,2,or 3. year, engine, climate control or manual control.

Hi Would most probably need a new sensor, but check connections first. EGR valve is held on by three bolts, and two bolts on exhaust tube, pull off the two small hoses, release locking ring on aircharge hose then pull off hose. Cleaning the EGR valve is a dirty job you will need some carb cleaner and some hand protection :)

Hi there The fault code 17564 sender for manifold pressure or MAP sensor looks incomplete should also say something like "short to ground open circuit. It's located in the air charge pipe (red arrow) from the intercooler to the EGR valve (green arrow) Hope thats of some help.

Hi there A good idea to check and see what faults have been logged since last used, if it has overheated and/or flame out 5 times in succession the heater will lock out and will not start till codes cleared, do check run on pump located on bulkhead behind fuel filter, just switch ignition on without starting engine, you should hear pump humming you should also feel vibration if working, if this pump is not working you will also notice the rear compartment heater will blow cool/cold air even when on the hot setting as the engine water pump is not sufficient to pump through booster and rear compartment heater.

Hi H Heaterpartsdirect is another source on Ebay if you havn't found them already.

Very nice write up from Mirez :lol: Agree with ya guys, but as I said earlier there are already good intructions with pictures from Ivor in the FAQ section 1, page 6 thread 81 to 86

Hi there Mk 2s do have swivel front seats providing you dont have mutimedia screens fitted in headrests.

Hi there. Some common solutions. 1.Heater matrix, check for loss of coolant have you been topping up lately. 2.Scuttle drains could be blocked one each side. 3.Aircon drain tube blocked, allows condensed water from evaporator to run back in car. check for for drips of water under car when aircon running. 4.Windscreen leaking, breakdown in bonding/sealer.

Hi George good news then ^_^ have heard of sticking fans before after a long period of inactivity (summer period)

Come on get with it ^_^ put them clubs down and get under :P AVS car parts 21.23 + post + Vat What you gonna be like when you get to my age :lol:

Also check the condition of the auxiliary fuse box (the one by the battery) the crimped terminals can suffer from high resistance which causes them to get hot and melt the plastic fuse box, carefully inspect the ring terminals of the large cables.

Hi Greg I don't think you will get it cheaper than the one I posted you, there are a few places out there that are dearer ^_^

Hi again I think you have exhausted your options now as a new control module will set you back as much for a new heater, so the secondhand option with a year warrenty is looking the way to go ^_^ You could also try (dieselheaters4u) on ebay, send him an email of what you want he will let you know if he can get it and how much.

Hi you may find this usefull. Is this the original alternator or one that came with engine?

Hi there I have been using partsgateway for 10 years, very good service, they search the part for you then email you the quotes, no obligation to buy you choose. My link Of course there is good old ebay!! :unsure:

Hi Greg Have you not done yours yet :unsure:

Hi there Go to the FAQ section number 1 then straight to page 6 there's detailed instructions with pictures for cleaning and changing glow plug

Hi Mark and George Mine also came from Ebay 3 years ago genuine Eberspächer kit cost £345 iirc was intended for mercedes sprinter but told it will fit any D5WZ so in for a penny, when I received it sure enough fitting instructions for mercedes (in German). Emailed Eberspächer to see if I can get in English and saying I want to fit in a galaxy, they were concerned and said that's the wrong kit but would send me the instructions for the galaxy. On comparing the two I see the galaxy has 2 changeover relays not present in the kit although these were easily available from local auto shop, on fitting the loom starting under the car I can now see the looms not long enough to reach the battery, the new fuse box, the 2 relays, the run on pump, climate control, mini programmer, heater blower, and single alarm wire on CJB all of which had to be lengthened. No provision for fitting second battery although when I was stuck in Dunkirk 2 years ago for 24hrs the unit was run for 3.5 hrs in total over that time and to my surprise still started the engine, so if batteries in good condition you shouldn't have a problem. Instructions showed programmer fitted next to headlight leveling switch but I put mine up in the roof lining where the factory fitted one goes. All in all a good job done just wish I had the remote control version :unsure: regards Chris ps Mark if you want the Eberspächer wiring diagram for interest I could send you a copy!

Hi George Just wondering what make kit you are using as I didn't have to take out the CJB layer etc when I did mine, just one wire on mine to the green plug for deactivating interior monitoring when fans blowing. All other wiring was behind climate control, heater blower, run on pump, and under car. regards Chris

Hi there N75 is hidden behind a heat sheild on the bulkhead behind the engine, will require removal of bulkhead extension (scuttle plate) to access even then tight for space, have added picture of valves etc. Have you had car checked with Vag-Com?

Hi have looked in the TIS manual for removing screen and it says, remove a pillar trim then disconnect heated screen connectors (one each side) maybe you dont have a heated front screen, I take it you do have a front and rear screen switch

Hi there The water pump will not stop the heater firing up, what happens is when the pumps not going is the heater gets up to temperature very quickly as there's little to no water circulation through the heater this usually results in the overheat stat shutting the heater down, five succesive overheats will lock out the heater requiring code clearing. check wiring for breaks on heater multi plug and fuel pump, you could also check voltage at fuel pump (when initiating heater. Water pump is located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter, requires removal of scuttle plate to access.

Hi and welcome to the site A lot of problems relating to central locking can be down to broken/bare wiring in the drivers door trunking, do a search on this forum or look in the FAQ's for pictures and instructions for repairing.