chrispb123456

To generalise cut of old connector, then either crimp on new one or solder on or both. What connector are you trying to repair. This topic/post is over 10 years old it's best to start your own new topic on your problem.

Here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-New-Skoda-Seat-Audi-Vw-PD-Injector-Wiring-Loom-Harness-038971600-TDi-/151010554317

Could possibly just be the connectors to the injectors need squeezing as they can come loose, but the work involved to do that just as well replace the loom.

Firstly I remember reading somewhere about disconnecting the power supply to the heater controls and this cured a problem, disconnecting the battery for a few moments should do the same, can't remember what the problem was but it's worth a try. Good news water returning to bottle and that you haven't suffered any loss of coolant and overheating so your engine water pump is working correctly as you can get problems with the impeller breaking off. Auxiliary water pump on the 115 engine is primarily to prevent hot spots after engine switch off and assists with circulation through the booster heater and the rear compartment heater. You say the booster heater is working but without the auxiliary pump working the booster heater will overheat and shut down because of lack of circulation that said and done it doesn't affect the front heater. If you remove the scuttle tray which gives better access to the pump you will also be able to see the hoses going through the bulkhead to the heater can you check these hoses and see if both are hot.

If the noise is only when in motion turning right or round a roundabout then possibly N/S wheel bearing.

You have a separate heater unit behind the left hand rear trim panel List of things to check. 1. With the engine running can you see coolant returning to the bottle through the small pipe on the side 2. Does the auxiliary coolant pump work (located behind fuel filter) runs all the time engine is running. And for 3 minutes after engine is switched off (AUY code only) 3. Does your booster heater work (jet engine noise from under car) 4. Has your car ever overheated or lost coolant?

If your replacing with a second hand unit I would run a small bead of sealer around the opening.

Firstly how is the coolant level? does it lose coolant regularly? are both front and rear heater cold. and which engine do you have? Galaxy LX is not enough, What year? MK1 or MK2 Petrol or Diesel and engine code modify your signature to show the above.

Remove the A pillar trim this will expose the three nuts that hold the glass

I thought you'd say that :)

Just for info the price of the foam jacket (7M3103954) that fits over the cylinder head is

You wont lose to much, the hardest part is getting the spring hose clips off, just run engine with cap off till engines warmed up and recheck level.

The booster heater will give you faster warm up times and keep the engine at normal operating temperature.

It slips over and around the cylinder head, it's actually separate pieces of foam attached and shaped to fit closely to the head, definitely on the 115 not sure about 130/150 which have the different top cover

Primarily for noise insulation, as for the heater running cool with max fan speed is your booster heater working?

The picture is the right part but these sort of things are mega expensive for what they are, would be interested to know the price but am not unduly worried as mines been gone for a few years.

The four speed box has the sump at the bottom and does have a removable filter once the sump is removed. The five speed has the sump on the side, there is no filter there it's buried deep inside the box.

My guess is it's going to be expensive but here's the VW number. 7M3103954

The dosing pump is under the car by inner sill in front of fuel tank.

My V reg MK1 had the heater but not the pump but bear in mind the MK1's only had the 3kw heater D3WZ

When you try starting is the LED on the door flashing? Thinking you have a dodgy relay 30 that may be what you can smell burning.

Here's the test, see how you get on.pinpoint test booster heater D5WZ.pdf

Will sort out the pin point test for you later today, this is done by doing several checks at the heaters multiplug. I think you may have a configuration issue with VCDS. Did you manage to see any faults on any of the other modules.

It may well have, signal outside specified, implausible signal, open circuit intermittent, short to ground. They do suffer with getting tight on the bearings which puts extra load on the motor, a clean up and a drop of oil on the bearings may help.

Fault code 01414 is combustion fan open circuit