chrispb123456

Hi again if you go to the FAQ section of the site there are some detailed instructions with pictures, will be a good idea to get a glow plug for it before you start any dismantling :P I thought you might be interested in reading this web page: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=6732

H sounds like 2 unrelated faults yes the Mass air flow sensor does cause loss of power try disconnecting lead fron sensor then drive car if its no worse its usually that. The small exhaust pipe under the car is your booster heater has it been working normally in the past, usually sounds like a jet engine under the car possible cause is faulty glow plug + unit may need a good clean out if you do a lot of short journeys

Hi again you didn't say in previous post whether it has worked in the past or not, has glow plug been changed since its not been working. If the unit has had five consecutive flame outs and/or five overheats it will be locked you will then need to clear the error code before it will run again, obviously the faults need to be rectified first. Is the electric water pump working? this runs regardless of heater and should be heard running for approx 5 mins after engine is turned off.

Where is that MAF located, please? Hi there MAF is located in the air intake pipe from the air filter it is easy to change but beware of the ones sold on ebay it gave me more problems than i already had, ended up getting a genuine Bosch one from local motor factors :P

Hi again Agree it will be quicker to diagnose with vag-com you can get them cheap on ebay if know one voluteers to do a test for you. Have you checked out the FAQ's section number 1 there's loads of posts and pics that may help

Hi again water can get in anywhere around the screen if it hasn't bonded properly, just a thought though you said you havn't got sun roofs but have you got roof bars? they could also leak if been badly fitted.

Hi again just a few more points for you. If the booster heater is running continueous for more than a few minutes there's unlikely to be anything wrong with the pump they are usually ok for 80 to 90 thousand miles. Now that the outside air temp is above the 10 deg mark its unlikely that the booster heater will fire up, if it doesnt fire up you can try this start engine leave it ticking over for 10 - 15 mins locate the large water hose going to top of radiator if this feels warm then the thermostat is open or partly open allowing water to flow through the radiator while engine is still only warm also if you say your aircon isnt working make sure its in ECON that should turn the cooling fans off. Leave temp sender till you have checked/changed thermostat, any air in the system will usually bleed itself out if you leave the cap off for a few minutes. Common aircon problems are the gas leaking from condenser which is in front of your cooling radiator. I have a number for a mobile auto aircon man if your in the Maidstone/Medway towns area.

Hi Steve If the temp guage is only showing cold to warm even with the booster heater running it sounds to me like an open or partly open thermostat I know you said air con s not working but is it still in AUTO mode which means the cooling fans will be running even while engine is cold. The electric water pump over the back of the engine does circulate the water through the booster heater and rear cabin heater and also runs on for about 5 to 10 mins after engines turned off. If booster heater is still running at full speed after 20mins running and engines still only warm suspect thermostat. With a normal working Galaxy with working booster should be up to normal working temp 90 deg c in 15 mins. when that temp is reached booster still runs at a reduced rate until temp drops to about 88 deg or if outside air temp rises above 10 deg booster will be turned off. ;)

hi nik am ignoring that booster heater picture

Hi there I take it you want to link the rubber pipes with a piece of tube the size you would need is 20mm. Now the bit you dont want to here personally I wouldn't be without it working these are my reasons. 1. unless your doing alot of motorway driving the engine will be running to cool for most of the time resulting in more engine wear. 2. higher fuel consumption 3.Exhaust emissions higher 4.Cold/Warm heater till you done about 15 miles even then depends on outside temperature. I take it the Ebersp

Laboured? In fourth? my 130 tdi sits happily doing 30mph in sixth with no input from my right foot. Lazy driving leads to high economy! Fourth is a bit racy don't you think? ;) Handily fourth = 20mph for in town speed limits. Come on now you TDI drivers give it some wellie get that turbo whistling you wouldn't want them turbo vanes getting all coked up would you!!!!!!!!!! :P

Hi there Very much sounds like the screen leaking as your getting water up on the dash, are you covered on insurance for windscreen, I had a few chips, and scratches from the wipers I didnt have any leaks but ive got a nice new screen for

Hi When you had the Alternator replaced did it come with a new pulley or did they use the old one. The Alternator pulley has a built in clutch they normaly fail at 80 to 90 thousand miles, cost around

Hi the only other option according to this manual is fuse no. 8 and should be 30 amp thats on the horizontal row and is the same fuse no as the mk 2 but the mk 2 is 15 amp. The early mk 1 according to this is fuse 35 but that does the front cig lighter aswell which you said is OK. Hope its one of those options :rolleyes:

Hi again can you give us more details of the car then ie petrol/diesel month/year model/trim

Hi you should find it easier to slide the seat right forward that piece of carpet can come out I think its got velcro on one end you should be able to see in there clearly then

Hi just looked in TIS the fuses for the Mk 1 luggage sockets are under the drivers seat fuse no 76 & 78 they are both 15 amp thats the blue colour fuse :D

Hi If its a D5WZ it definately comes apart, small torx headed bolts to remove back cover. Never heard of them being sealed units. You may find this link usefull for parts http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/dieselheaters4u&...:MEFSX:SELLERID

Hi think this is right for you

Here are mine with a 1996 FORD GALAXY 2.0 GLX: The engine has been running cold = the temp gauge on the display never shows warm & only moves of cold at motorway speed. Garage replaced the "faulty" temp sender to the gauge but made no difference. Asked different garage to check/replace thermostat however they reported the radiator cooling fan running at all times was the cause so suggested an auto-electrician. I was using ECON mode with climate control so air con should be off. Auto-electrician report no fault codes on ECU or faulty sensors so much expense and no idea how to resolve. Recently red warning light also flashes above temp gauge. Hi have your garage actually replaced thermostat or not. Try this, with engine cold start engine after 10 mins ticking over feel the large hose going to the top of the radiator if the hose feels warm its very likely the thermostat is open or partly open which means the coolant is circulating through the radiator while the engine is still cool, the cooling fans will run even when engine is cold if the air con is on AUTO. ECON as you say does turn air-con off, check air-con pump with engine running look at the pump if the centre part of the pump drive is turning with the pulley air-con is on, if the centre shaft is stationary it is off. Red flashing light is low coolant level/and/or overheating. Does car loose water are you constantly topping up if you are you may have head gasket going/gone. Also check engine oil dipstick is the oil dark, you dont want any white milky looking mess in the oil, called mayo in the trade. See how you get on with that. Chris ;)

Hi Did you remove the air filter to get to the brake fluid container if you did on refiting did you reconnect the mass air flow meter to the air filter housing. Sounds like you need to bleed the brakes again if you havn't already done so, is this grinding noise there since you have replaced the rear pads? if so you need to recheck everything + make sure the disc back plate is not rubbing on the disc you may have inadvertantly bent it while removing/replacing caliper

Hi As with all ancillary units (PAS pump, Air-Con, Alternator) they all put a load on the belt while the engine is running, the most likely cause is the auto belt tensioner the spring gets weak with age ;)

Just compress them back in, they don't need to be wound like the rears. I tried to do that but they wont budge could the caliper be seized on? also i cant start the car at moment so could it be a build up of pressure behind the piston? may sound like a dumb question but i have never changed the front pads before. Hi have you taken the cap off the brake fluid reservoir it may be full right up if it is you may do well to bleed some out of the system otherwise the reservoir will overflow when piston are pushed back, you can as other members have suggested undo the bleed nipple when pushing back piston that way the old fluid is not forced back up the system, when you have fitted the new pads you can bleed the brakes in the usual way (pipe & Jar Method) :)

Hi Big Kev didn't have any luck by changing any of the settings as suggested however I did change the com port from 4 to 1 and using a different usb socket and glad to say it now appears to work, all but module 2 transmission which is one that I really wanted, all other modules say no faults found and have since tried altering settings like baud and latency but they dont seem to affect it. Also thanks to Jayton and Mr T for their assistance :) :D