cyborg

Hi, If its not the fuse check the wires in the tailgate its a comen problem

my haynes says Brown & Yellow 0.5 for power or try earthing Brown 0.5

Bodge ALERT :) put a spade on a new piece of wire then jam spade into hole next to old pin put some solder on it join wire happy days :)

http://jamesmarks.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/waynes-world.jpg?w=341&h=296

Could also be rust stuck to the abs sensor 'magnets' causing intermitant problem.

Hi something to Check is your coil pack is firing on all cylinders i guess your car got warm exposing faulty coil pack.. as a not firing on all cylinders confuses autobox and replicates the failure you describe hence you were able to nurse home . To check pack unplug each one look for spark jump or put a spare plug on spare lead .

As above and I always turn steering a little to right so the kerb acts as natural barrier just in case..

Also check all tyre pressures.

Think we've been here before ..anyway the ESC or ESP (Electronic stability control) or even ABS are function's that rely on wheel speed to deduce traction control .Personnely I think you'd be a fruitcake to start messing with wheels and tyres that are outside handbook specifications .Especially when the manufacturer has calibrated the control of these systems to close parimiters for you and family saftey. I suppose you could always disable abs ..:lol: Somtimes I sound like me dad :lol:

Hi Andy, Can i suggest that you take the handle from passenger side and swap for drivers side for now. Then perhaps source a rear handle and replace passenger one so no key or barrel work req keaping costs down . You could even source another handle and key and change the lock barrel settings but I have tried taking apart but found without a photographic memory and a clear workspace the bits explode and isn't a job to do in a hurry would be better left to a locksmiths skilled hands.

Hi Arther Daley welcome to the forum, In referance to drivers door in key locking Check behind the rubber on door hindge for broken wires its very comen for them to brake before you change locking mechanism. Once the wires or mechanism is fixed you can turn right 3 times to enable programming mode.

Good for you thats a step up from being told to take it to local garage, TOTAL RESULT well done .:D

hello,I think there are some issues here to be wary of. It could be a genuine faulty waterpump it's good that the garage have offered to pay for work .But.. the head failure on a diesel also replicats waterpump once apart it may prove that the fault is the head ,Which is a tad more expensive to have done.However once the car has been interfered with the dealer could protest innocence and say he was unaware of said offer and you will be left with repair bill...your ok get car tested by a pressure test or sniff test but don't go ahead until your sure that garage is able to cover costs..Dependent on gut feeling ; get them to confirm by email / writing that there willing to stand for repair and be clear of costs as they may prefer to refund you. Be realistic if car 10 years old 100,000 + miles then the offer of repair is very reasonable I can't see anything wrong however If the car is under 3 years old and bought from big dealer then reject the car claim refund use aa report as independant assessment .Don't faff around getting repaired as once you accept repair all your rights disappear . Its all very well us getting sales of goods act out and paraphrasing it ,but its you who will be without wheels not us armchair lawyers ;) so good luck shit happens :o

I would say do seat kid says then if leak isn't obvious try some talcom powder or some flour dusted on a clean engine will help you see the leak

The fault you describe is the Dying throes of relay 109 see this faq how to access area soilder or replace .

First impression is Its an electrical problem earth or split cable some where so check all ground and chasis ground connections look for chafed cables check all doors and boot however... Quotes taken from http://www.tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-8.html#e1 - Fuel cut-off valve O-ring unseated - especially if the idle speed is intermittently higher than normal. With the engine cover removed, the fuel cut-off valve is located on top of the injection pump just above where the four steel lines go into the end, and has a single wire going to it. Remove this valve (disconnect the wire first!) and make sure the black O-ring is all the way against the body of the valve, then re-assemble. - Vehicles which have modified engine control systems, especially if a chip and a tuning-box are used together, may experience a phenomenon which has been called "warp field collapse": at full load and generally higher engine speeds, the engine will abruptly go into a reduced-power mode. Investigation of trouble codes with a VAG-COM will generally find a code set which is related to the quantity adjuster upper limit. The problem is that too much fuel is being requested! The solution is to back off the requested amount of fuel, generally through de-tuning the tuning box which hopefully has some manual adjustments that can be made.

Thing is all you need is some one to fill with wrong grade oil top up regually with more cheap crap never replace filter and you end up with blocked oilways sticky vavles and cam timing belt streching and errors galore as you well know.On the mk1 vr6 The cam chain auto adjusters can stick as they as they adjust . causing the chain to work loose vibrate then break the guides then making a very slack chain then they wear the alloy off upper timming cover giving a nasty oil leak above thermostat.One the mk2 they used stronger plastic guides and better positiong of adjuster..... Apparently you can detect chain failure by using vagcom and checking the bdc firing angle the one i did had the oil leek. Although that was a mk1.

My recipe :unsure: use the over size length bolt cot off head put 2 nuts on end tightend against each other. then put some instant steel or jb weld on other end and put into the hole unscrew the 2 nuts then use one to fasten belly pan ...voila

lol not anymore since you've posted ..... ;);)

hi and welcome, might be one of these or somthing different 1 A defective spark plug or a failing coil pack 2 Mass air sensor 3 lamda sensor You can scan the airbag with vagcom to get fault code even though it a ford engine. someone said the clockspring's also known as squib's are around

hi, look for split wires shorting to the coil's either way clear the codes then scan again i had smiluar problem with mine one turned out 3 coils were one way out and one had failed so much that it melted in plug socket .

hi, there's a chip in the key which sounds like its missing from your key ,try a spare key ,if you have one or find the chip .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwx2ce_AyOE&feature=player_detailpage

damm nice easy answer ghia x beat me to it :) Timming chain with good service the car will fall to bits before chain goes ;)