davewill

The new Gal didn't come with Mud Guards, so i have bought a genuine Ford set (front and back) off ebay They have arrived, and the instructions for fitting don't look too complicated, but before i start this weekend, just wondered if anyone had fitted a set on their Mklll , and if so whether there was anything to be aware of, or do slightly differently to the instructions received?? Thanks Dave

Update Had the car 3 weeks now and done about 1,800 miles in that time Tested the MPG this week on a long journey ,M54, M6, M40, M4, A33 to Basingstoke and Return Averaged 43.4mpg and that was 70mph max on the Motorways, and Cruise Control as much as possible Also experienced a "slow puncture" as i do Not have Run Flats. Fortunately only a small nail in the tread and repairable. I did buy a spare full size 17" wheel for my last Gal, however do not carry that with me in the car. My thoughts are if i get a puncture i will call out the recovery people, and they can either take me to a local Kwik Fit etc, or take me home. The point of the spare wheel is therefore only used if i damage a wheel, or if i am brought home, and can then swap the flat tyre wheel for the spare one, till original one repaired. Otherwise car is going well, and i am very pleased with it Next update at 10,000 miles

Hi My "new Gal" (13 plate Titanium, with 17") rides quite well really. Its not got run flats on, just the factory fitted Goodyear 225 50 R17 Maybe changing from run flats to "normals" will help?

How do you get them to switch off when you switch the normal lights on? I don't know, hence the question has anyone seen them fitted Also how do they fit?? Do you need to drill holes in the front panel, or cut a piece out? If Amazon do a 7 day return program i may order a set, have a read of the instruction manual then send 'em back!

http://www.piam.ru/upload/iblock/595/1717421.JPG Just answered my own question These pictures from a russian web site http://www.piam.ru/offers/2972/

Has anyone fitted these (or even seen these) on a Mk lll Gal?? They appear in a Ford price list and are on Amazon (see below) and are

Hey guys No problems in adding to my original post, in fact very interesting, as i have managed to stall the new car once, and wasn't really sure whether it was me getting used to a "manual" again, or the car just stalling itself!! Apart from the above (which i will now be aware of) the new car is very nice, and although similar to the old one, is also different!! The 163 ps engine is a smoother and quieter engine than the 140ps The ride quality feels a little firmer on the new car, and the seats are certainly firmer The panorama roof lightens up the interior quite dramatically Subtle changes including coolant temp, and clock on the main dashboard settings are good Ipod connection now in centre armrest box, rather than glovebox Radio / music levels automatically lower when reversing beepers come on These are all initial "findings" and with many many miles to come, i will keep this updated with he pro's and con's Dave

I have decided to trade in my 2010 Gal as it now has 65,000 on it and is 3 years old The old one was a Titanium 140ps Diesel Powershift model I am going for a 2013 Titanium 163 Manual with Panorama Roof The "old gal" has served me well, with only minor problems to talk about (bonnet catch broke, and button on powershift gear knob fell off) The one thing that did annoy me about it though was the "lag" when driving in automatic mode, when you pulled away from an island / junction etc, or tried to do a quick 3 point turn. So gone for the manual version this time, and will see how that goes

Don't know what model you have, but have you tried looking at the messages "section" on the dash screen?? I had a warning on my car (titanium) and didn't know what it was, so scrolled through to messages and it was there (low washer fluid) just a thought

PS Forgot to say You don't actually need to press the button in at all to move the gear lever from P to R, or D to P etc etc If thats the case, why is there a button at all??????

Have just had the button which is at the rear of the Powershift gear lever fall off! Pressed the button, moved the gear lever from P to R and the button just fell out along with the spring behind it. Took it to my local fraud dealer who said never seen this before. After examiniation the two small "lugs" that hold the button in place had sheared off, thus leaving the button nothing to fix it into the gear lever. Its a Nov 2010 Titanium model, and when i enquireds if it was under warranty was told no, trim is only 12 months warranty How much to fix.... £80 + vat for the gear "knob" with button, + fixing

Hi Guys My rear brake pads need changing as i have done 54,000 miles on em, and the Fraud dealer tells me they are 90% worn. Is this a job that a "reasonable" DIYer van do, or should it be left to the experts?? I didn't realise until i was told that the Mklll's don't have brake pad warning lights on them, whereas my Mkll did. As this is the case, and there is no warning light to reset, is the replacement of the rear pads an easy job??? Cheers Dave

Apparantly its a"Wheels off" service, so not cheap!!! Been told by Frauds it will be around £240 and thats if they dont find anything that needs replacing (Disk pads come to mind)

My 2010 Gal 2.0 Tdi is telling me "oil service" Its done 50,000 miles Anyone know if this is a "Major" or "Minor" service, and also approx cost relevant to which service (to be done by a Fraud dealer) Cheers Dave

Just a thought The ebay link below is to a car breakers in the West Mids who are "breaking" a 2007 Gal Maybe contact them to see if the exhaust is available, and if they would remove it from the car for you If it is, take it (with your car) to an independent exhaust garage and ask them to fit for you Cost of "used" exhaust + fitting must be cheaper than Fraud Prices?? Hope it helps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-LX-1-8-TDCI-6-SPEED-MANUAL-2007-O-S-WING-MIRROR-BREAKING-PARTS-/360596824556?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f53ee1ec

Hi I know there has been a lot of queries and posts on here regarding MPG on the Mklll, (and i have replied to a few), but i have just done the journey below, and achieved my best ever MPG in my Gal 2010 plate 2.0 TDI Powershift, 51,500 miles currently on clock Journey - Newport (Shropshire) to Wimbledon A41 to M6 Toll, to M42, to M40, to M25 to A3 into London Drove the car as a "manual" changing up gears at 2000 revs (max) and used cruise control wherever possible, with Max Speed of 70mph on Motorways Reset Mpg counter at start of journey, and at end had achieved 50.2MPG Happy with that!!! Cheers Dave

Hi Chromedome I remember you well from the Mkll forum, as i was on there myself from 2006 - 2010 as i had a couple of the Mkll Gals I now have a 2010 Titanium Tdi 140ps Auto (Powershift) model, that i have had from 3 months old I love the car, and think it much better than the Mklls. The Fuel consumption is better, the fold flat seats work really well, rather than taking seats out, and the driving position and handling is better Only downside is the "lag" on the power, when trying to pull away from junctions and islands etc. It is covered in some depth on this site, and still causes problems to most drivers of the Auto (Powershift) models. There are quite a few posts on the Mklll forum about this, so have a good read. Personally i find it much better to drive the car in "manual" mode rather than "auto" mode, as i get more mpg, and also control the "lag" problem The auto box is 6 gears, and does take time when changing up the box (2 to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc) probably reaching 2500 - 3000 revs before changing Thats why when driving it as a manual, you can change up at 2000 revs and increase mpg Anyway i hope you are happy with the new Mklll, and i look forward to seeing your posts in the future Cheers, Dave.

Nicky Is it a manual or a "powershift" (automatic) model??? I have the 2.0l tdci 140ps "powershift" 2010 model, that now has 47,000 miles on it I found that mpg got better after it had done around 20,000 miles, but i also find that driving it in "manual" mode, (rather than letting the auto box dictate when the engine changes up and down gears) gives me around 7 to 8 mpg more over a long journey If i drive from Midlands to London in "auto" mode doing 70mph on Motorways i will get around 41mpg If i do same journey in "manual" mode changing gears myself, i will get around 48mpg Overall my average for all driving (motorways and towns etc) over 1000 miles is around 42mpg As i say this is for the 140ps tdci so not sure if this is quoted as better or worse mpg than the 163 version

Now my car is 2 years old i was looking at the number of stone chips on the bonnet and counted around 15 I have the Silver Colour (moonlight silver?) the bright silver one. Anyone else suffering with bonnet stone chips?? I know they are not covered under any warranty, and my brother in law (who runs a Chips Away franchise) says the only real way of repainting them, is to do the whole bonnet, which of course costs a fortune Other comments would be welcome Cheers dave

And have you fixed the problem Gregers? If so, how??

Hi Bob Well its over 12 months since i created this post and i have now done around 45,000 miles in the car, with exactly the same turbo lag problems existing. I did speak to my local Fraud dealer a few months ago, and he said that there was still no new software update for the Mklll, so i suppose we have to live with its turbo lag failings.

Its now been confirmed that the rattle is coming from the near side rear seat Seatbelt "stork thing", i.e the holder that the seatbelt buckle clips into. You can actually grab the "stork" that comes out of the seat and by giving it a "wiggle" the rattle noise is there. Obviously i am not sure if the rattle is inside the bcukle, or that the "stork" is loose where it is connected to the seat?? To get at this it looks like you have to remove the nearside rear seat, and then remove the plastic cover that hides the bottom of the "stork" I can see that rear seat is located on slider rails, and that these are held down by tork screws Anything to be aware of when removing the rear seats, or is it just a case of unscrewing the tork screws and lifting it out, and then trying to remove the plastic around the seatbelt "stork"??

The rattle is back and sounds louder now than before :angry2: I think i will take it in to m local Fraud dealer and let them guess the problem (although i am mindful that gregers diagnosis of the belt retainer could be correct)

Cant quite believe this I had to fold all the seats down to get a large box in, and left them folded down after i had delivered the box. There was no rattle when the seats were folded down. Put them back up into the normal 3 rear seat position to take the kids to school, and hey presto the rattle was not there. It has now been 3 days since i put the seats back up, and have not heard the rattle once I wonder if there was something stuck in or under the seat that was causing it?? Anyway if it comes back i will just have to fold all the seats down again for a day!

Its the 2010 Titanium 140tdi Powershift Model I established today that if i fold all the rear seats flat, to make a huge carry area, the rattle goes away?? Therefore the rattle only occurs when the rear seats are upright and ready to carry passengers Any ideas??