Nick

I know bits of this have been covered before, but just wanted to make sure I've not missed something easy. The remote key just stopped working, but using the key in any lock will operate central locking and global open/close fine. Took the ECU out from under the seat, all dry (never been wet) and all contacts look fine, circuit board looks fine (nothing burnt). (Nothing works when this is un-plugged). Changed fob batteries anyway, no change (

Hope you see this in time: Call their bluff, have them do a vac test. In order to do it they have to suck out all the gas anyway! I doubt they have the kit/incentive to recycle it. Another thing is that a vac test is not the best way to find a leak. Nitro presure test with a dye is better. Good luck

Well I changed the stabiliser bushes today. Easy job and no more clunking!! Definitely should be law to change the bushes at the same time as replacing the drop links. Wish I had known this a while back, may have prematurely worn the new drop links! The old bushes were clearly well worn when compared to the new ones.

I changed my drop links a while back, but it did not solve that annoying 'clunck' over pop holes etc. Keeping in mind the mileage on my car, would the stabiliser bar bushes be the next best bet for replacement? Anyone changed these?

Thanks Andy, I'll check all the pipes. More than possible that those monkeys at Ford disturbed something. Will report back

Thanks for the replys. MAF was changed a while back (a good while back). The sensor blade was missing! Good call but unlikley I think, 'cause 90% of the time she would pull the horns off a bull. Yes, if I leave it on cruise and just pump the throttle it does seem to pick up sometimes - but this is a 90bhp and there's not a lot to pick up at 80mph! I've been thinking fuel/delivery. But don't know how to fault find these?

Only notice this on motorway driving, get up to around 3000 revs (78 'ish mph) now and again I can feel it hesitate and then the revs/speed drops off. If I lift off then reapply the gas we are ok, for a while. Most noticeable on inclines when on cruise, you feel it knock back. Last service was done by Ford. They changed the fuel filter so I'm hoping I can rule that out. What do you guys think? Sticky injector? Your opinions very welcome.

Here's the update as promised. I've now put 10,000 miles on the new turbo - not missed a beat. Performance and gas milage are fine. Aside from needing new drop links (will fit them if ever it stops raining) and disks/pads, this car could run forever - well done Ford!

I found this site good on price and service: http://www.car-air-conditioning-supplies.c...ome.php?cat=254

Ok, recon turbo was fitted. They said the old one was a 'pig' to get off, but they managed it without the need to drill and retap. Turbo Technics gave a full exchange, saying that the problem was a failed main bearing. That makes sense 'cause it's been whistling for about 80,000 miles! When this thing went I drove it home (limped) for about 80 miles. This emptied the sump oil into the exhaust. They had to drill holes in several parts of the exhaust to drain the oil - lots of smoke. Holes will be welded next week. So hey, I'm back on the road at a cost of

Does anyone know if there is a separate forum for SEAT Alhambra? I don't want to post here if unwelcome or better directed somewhere else. Cheers.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I'm going with a turbo technics unit. Local garage has been recommended who has lots of experience with these. The big question will be if they can get the manifold off with the studs in tact! If not then that will likely add another

I think this is self evident, but would like to hear opinions. Back ground; I've had turbo whine for the last 80,000+ miles. Came in around 2200 and was in sync with engine load. See a small smear of oil from up around the turbo for months and months, however the car used very little oil between the 10,000 mile services. Yesterday; Engine would appear to 'limit' at around 3000rpm/80mph. Was pulling fine to that level. Today; On the way to Exeter (I live in Bristol) engine was still limiting to 3000rpm for most of the way. Very sluggish up hills. The turbo was not it's usual high pitched whine but was by now a much lower frequency. The car was now issuing white smoke on pulling away (never done that before). Stopped for lunch and to let it cool down. Started back up fine then WOW! Engine raced, BIG white smoke, turned off the ignition but the engine was running and still racing!! Had to jamb the hand brake on and stall the motor to stop it. Scary moment or what! In that few seconds I think I heard clanking and rattling. Looked under the hood, as you do, all appeared ok. Plenty of oil (just changed the oil and filter a few miles ago, Ford OEM). Shit or bust so decided to try starting her again - veroom! Started right back up, but with lots of white smoke. Long story shortened, drove it back 80+ miles to Bristol. By the time I got home, you guest it, no oil left! What to do now? - Ford (phone rough price) say

At the time the Picasso fourum was the only place to host photos. I've not tried to post a photo recently, can they be hosted here now?

This thread may interest you, with photos: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...283entry33283

My 1997 TDi had/has the same problem (not as severe as yours), but mostly on the near side. The ford dealer I got if from checked everything on their all wheel alignment gizmo and said everything was 'in spec'. After another set of tyres they changed the whole of that side of the axle (they said) under warranty. It did not cure it and I've lived with it ever since. Car has now done 225,000, and lots of rear tyres!

This is odd, my drivers window appears to become intermittent on DOWN when the air temp is low. Always closes fine. Goes down under global closing. I've taken the switches out and they seem fine on an ohm meter. Can't see any wire breaks from the switch (not had the door panel off yet). It's been mild last few days and the window has worked every time! Anyone else had this?

Great thread SK and good timing too. My 1.9tdi has taken a few more cranks since it's been cold, so after reading your thread I had a look at my glow plugs. That bus bar is a tight bitch to get off! Found 1 at 220 ohms, 1 at 5.5k ohms and 1 as as good as open. The 4th I didn't get too yet but may as well replace all 4. I'm ringing round to get prices. Wow! Ford wanted

I think I'll write to Ford - only done 217,000 and I bought oil but the engine don't need it :huh:

NS went at 205,000 on mine. OS still going strong at 214,000 :P

At one time there was a thread with pictures and step by step - can't seem to find it now??

Do a search on 'heat soak'. Would say that you have a leak and that needs to be found/fixed before you put more gas in it. Chances are that you have minimal gas left to it starts, then gets heat soaked. I just found (another) leak on mine, front pipe, clip rubber worn causing pin hole in pipe.

I can well understand you being pissed off and having to pay almost

Managed to do the near side one! You gotta let the WD40 soak a while!! Then found that the link on there had flats for a spanner. That helped, a lot. The new one from Ford does not have flats, but a star type alan socket - bloody hopeless because then you won't be able to get a socket on the nut! Wow what a diference - no knocking!

Was going to replace drop links on mine - can't shift either nut!!! Looks like I'll be taking to the dealer :)