Nick

Yep same here. Ordered my MkIII TDCi in August. Still no VIN or build date set yet. Was told by the dealer could now be November or even December! Was also told that the 2.0 TDCi was in great demand and that Ford were pushing them through to the Mondeo production. All good things come...

I also meant to say that my only "niggles" so far are that the rear side windows don`t open and I think the door and rear side panel "chrome/ polished" strips are a bit dull and could be a lot better. There ya go ! John Did you order the rear quarter option? If not, there ya go!

Get the IVDC with CCD option, then you will have a button to select the suspension you want :lol:

Thanks Big Kev, looks like a nice product. Never got round to using VAGCOM on my mk1 but fancy having the tool for the new car. I take it that the Mk 111 will have the standard OBD11 connector hidden away somewhere... If ever they build my new car!

Thanks. Is that available on the web? Anyone have any experience with it?

Thrust bearing??

Anyone know if they have used the same system (VAG COM) in the Mk III?? Anyone got any diagnostic info yet?

Yes, good point about driving abroad. Thanks all for comments.

My order still not given a build date. Was toying with the idea of adding the Bi-Xenon option, what do you guys think? Is it worth the dosh?

The old gal has served me for over 257,000 miles. Decided to give Ford the new order, plus a few options: 2.0 TDCi, X pack leather and panoramic roof, Retractable tow bar, IVDC with CCD, Climate front seats, Solar reflact windshield, Electric park brake, Convers plus instruments, Power folding door mirrors. Delivery late October. Will post a thread with my review. Anyone want a 1997 Ghia X with everything working, including the air con!?

Is it worth upgrading the speakers in a MK3 new galaxy? Can anyone recommend a make/style? Cheers

If not repair yours with a self tapping screw. Mine has lasted 4 years with that!

Nice one insider, thanks.

Can anyone point me where to check the oil level in a manual gearbox please, photo? Also, syncromesh has gone in 1st gear, wont change smooth unless 2nd is engaged briefly first - if I live with this will it cause other problems? Cheers.

Ok here's what went wrong. Others here have had the same cause - corrosion around the top of the selector shaft. Mechanic removed the selector assembly, removed the shaft, cleaned and re-greased it. Fixed! Here

If the old bolt is in the gearbox, how is it that I'm still able to drive the car? Must have done 40 miles in it since the fault happened? I had some quotes from Ford dealer - new gear selector mechanism

Fantastic Ian, thanks. I've got it in with the loacl spanner man. I'll send him the info so he knows what to look for. Top Man!

I can't find the pinch bolt on my TIS disk. Do you have any info/diagrams? What is the deal with the 'modified' bolt? Cheers.

Thanks Ian. I'm thinking my issue is likely to be as yours was. However my car has done 254,000 miles (original clutch and exhaust) and removal of the gearbox sounds very expensive. This could only be justified if I took the opportunity to have the clutch renewed. I'm assuming that the gearbox has to come out to do a clutch? If so then to have a selector assembly installed during the same job would make more sense. I'm going to get some quotes from Ford and from a private mechanic and compare to the value of the car. Else it's new car time.

Thanks for the replys. Familyman, yes it's a deisel and yes the cables are attached (both ends) and are seated on the brackets correctly. I was hoping it may have been a ball joint or off the bracket for a quick fix - no such luck. The one at the back (selector) is seized, can't get it to budge at all. Can't see why. Adema, what work was carried out for

Hi all. Anyone have experience of a seized gear selector? Read the posts here and as far as I can see all the ball joints appear to be in place and the cables still attached to their brackets. Have no movement at all on the selector cable. What could cause this? I just don

Did you replace the rubber bushes on the suspension arm at the same time as you replaced the drop links? Cheap and well worth eliminating.

Does anyone know how much end float there should be on the drive shafts? My NS has about 6mm and the OS is almost rigid. (Should say that I had Ford replace the gaitors on the NS back in Feb.) Thanks.

Good call Seatkid! You caused me to actually read what the TIS had to say! Turns out I needed to activate the programme sequence by inserting the key in the door lock and unlocking 3 times. BTW the alarm/lock module is indeed under the seat. For others that may read this, I think mine went tits up because the fob batteries became loose (fell out when I opened it up), hence loosing the program sequence. You gotta love this forum!