Masked Marauder

yes, it will need re-gassed and yes, the auxilliary drive belt will need to come off, but not the timing belt.

Well from nothing to 7deg not even on recirc is good enough for me. Will be buying the gauge and refill kit today, thanks Matt!

OK, scratch that, it looks like the cooler is on top of the box and is water cooled. Check it has not come loose or ruptured the O rings to it.

Probably the pipe to the oil-cooler has split, it is the only place that there is that much pressure that it could spray out, this would mean no oil in the torque converter and subsequent loss of drive. Unless something has holed the cooler, anyone konw if it is built into the rad or separate?

Mike, that link takes me to some search site, can you check it for me as I would be interested in total closure.

Blocked scuttle drains at either end of the scuttle panel.

Sounds like a fully open stat or missing altogether.

I would go with a thermostat that is not fully opening first, then the water pump.

Your scuttle drains are blocked. You can clear them buy putting a hose down them and turning it on, they are located in the left and right corners.

It is normally considered better practice to put your best tyres on the back because you can correct the oversteer or understeer on the front, but if the back breaks away there is little you can do except steer into the skid.

I heard that too, the use of a "Long-life" belt. But then dealers over here like to take people for mugs.

If it works, but not correctly then you either need to get it serviced or top it up yourself with more refrigerant. There is a thread about it HERE Many people on here seem to be of the opinion that a DIY top -up is not a good idea though, but major names like "Castrol" make a DIY top-up product and I can not see them putting their name on something that does not work. In any case Americans and Australians have been servicing their own air-con for years.

Every 40000 miles is the recommended interval.

They most likely failed to center the steering wheel when it was tracked, or they do not do tracking off the rear wheels.

It depends on the engine. How many BHP is it, 90, 110, 115, 130, 150?

How cold was it getting before? Was it functioning at all?

I have rung round all the agricultural equipment repaiers round here and yes they fix aircon, yes they have the kit, no they won't do it as they are "too busy." Whilst I won't try to pretend that the refill kit is no substitute for a proper service it could be useful for many people for all sorts of reasons.

Because a certain amount of gas will create a certain amount of pressure. All the fridges & freezers where I work are charged by pressure only. Thanks for the link! Will have a read.

But the worst I could over-fill by would be 50g which is acceptable! Anyway, that was before I saw the gauge for sale which I guess just measures the pressure of the gas. So better, but not perfect.

Because it needs gas! You can have upto 50g of over-fill so if the gas canister can be turned off/resealed I will add 50g, test how cool, add another 50g, test.......

Can you post an update when you are done? That would be really helpful. Does the filling kit have a valve to close off the gas canister or is it all or nothing?

If your aircon works, but only needs a top-up then I found this, it may be worth considering. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=7968252650 I have emailed the seller and asked if there is a stop valve on the kit so you can add it a bit at a time weighing the kit as you go, so you don't over fill the system. I await his reply.

Any good tyre place should have a set of reverse helix sockets to zip them off. Halfords locking nuts are very good and reasonably priced.