Masked Marauder

I had the genuine Toad dual shock sensor fitted to my Ai606. It was great, only went off once (with the Toad you can count the LED flashes to see what tripped it) and I saw the Chav try the door handle. The sensor was on the B pillar and set so fine that when he let the handle drop it set off the "chirp" pre-warning.

There is one on eBay. Is this the one you have or the one you had? http://i3.ebayimg.com/02/i/03/cf/a1/30_1_b.JPG

See my post above, they lost it they need to replace it with one the same.

There is a small rased pimple on the mounting face that MUST locate in a hole in the pully. My money is on the pully being on wrongly. Also the pully is bolted onto the crankshaft with four tapered headed bolts. If they are removed the splines in the head of the bolt often strip out. If they have then been replaced with the wrong type (non-tapered head) then the pully will not be correctly located. But my money is on the pimple not being in the hole....

Then a positive supply is going into the phone input terminal. Are you sure the plug is in the right hole in the unit?

I wanted a spare key and fancied a flip one, but as my car is an Alhambra, my local VW parts department refused to order one for me.

The replacement unit, whether correct model or not for the car, it is not what was removed for repair. Loosing it was a breach of their legal duty of care to you as a customer. Point this out to them, tell them you want the same or better than what was lost. You may have to get a solicitor onto it but they are 100% at fault and any costs should be recoverable if they don't settle after the intial letter.

I have aircon and it still gets bloody hot at times. If you look at getting tints, remember that the front side windows and windscreen must not have a stick-on tint and it must allow at least 75% of the light through the tint.

I did not know if the winch would still be there or not so offered a simple way to find out! If I had an LPG tank under my boot I would be wondering how much it would cost to have the rest of the system fitted, not how to remove it!

Yes. This is what the handbrake is for, according to the MOT. It doesn't have to hold the car on a slope, only provide enough deceleration if you have to use it to stop the car in an emergency (eg footbrake failure). I beg to differ. Set figures are often used by testers for rolling road handbrake tests, however the correct method is to calculate the required braking efficiency for the weight of the vehicle using the tables at the rear of your MOT testers' handbook. The handbrake then should be 16% of the figure, as: Nothing to do with deceleration. Perhaps you are confusing it with a hand-operated secondary braking system.

Take care! Don't delay in try to resolve the problem, I have heard reports of the heat from a dragging clutch causing the flywheel to buckle, and that is then a major hassle.

THUD! OK, just got back on my chair now! My belt broke (110bhp engine) and I had to have the head off, 8 lifters, 8 valves, new belt & rollers, gaskets, anti freeze, oil filter etc, the whole lot cost me

Check the vacuum pipes to the turbo and from the vacuum servos to the air intake on the right top of the engine for perishing and splits.

Horn buttons can be changed, don't know how, but I have seen them for sale Windows. Check for damp under the front passenger seat. If you find some do a search on damp foot well. Spare Wheel. This is fitted to a winch which winds the wheel up and locks it under the car, look for a semi-circular flap in the carpet in the back of the car. If you see a wheel-bolt sized nut, thats the winch. The manual issue. The engine is the same as the VR6 Golf. Or you can "acquire" a copy of the Ford TIS DVD and all you need is on there.

Thats the sound your looking for. It should run until the coolant is warmed up, and you can often hear it "running down" when you turn the engine off after a short trip.

You just need semi-synthetic. The PD engines Ivor refers to are 115, 130 & 150 bhp.

Well my non-ir remote does.

There is a vent release button in the top of the filler pipe, try pressing it in before you fill up.

You can get them HERE

Perhaps they are saying it is the cam-driven unit-injector that is the problem? That is a major job to change, requiring four special tools.

Sounds more like a glow plug problem to me.

Top banana! The chemical colour test is the best way to look for a gasket fail between cylinder and waterway. If the other garaged had done it it would have been clear that the problem was not the gasket, so it really makes me wonder if they did do it and the mis-inform you. It would have likely been a

You may not loose coolant, the pressure of the engine firing may be enough to breach the gasket, but the pressure of the coolant may not be enough. Sounds weird but it happens. As for pressure in the coolant, the cap will let out excess pressure.

The fitter will know his job, relax. The car will need to be off the road for about 6 hours for the bonding to set.