Masked Marauder

Yep, you fooked it. It has detected an open circut and needs resetting with VAG-COM or at a dealers.

Ring German Swedish & French and tell them it is a Sharan.

Yes I agree, it is not a substitute for a service and a system that has not worked for a few years is unlikely to be resurected by it. But if you pressure test and there is positve pressure on the suction side with the air con running then it is quite possible that there is no leaks and the top-up may well work for you. As for the recircled air setting, I was just following orders...... Well instructions anyway!

That is where I got mine from, same guy, but got the two can version. As for the not worked for three years, do you know why it has not worked? Can you hear the compressor engage when you turn the air con on? The same guy does leak sealer and leak indicator, but that may not even work. Question is, how much did you want to gamble on being able to fix it?

Yes, the slave cylinder directly operates the release bearing and is between it and the gearbox housing and surrounds the input shaft. The gearbox MUST be removed.

OK dokey, heres the story, Kit arrived yesterday and re-gassed it last night. Piece of cake, a kid could do it. For a MK1: Remove offside front indicator by loosening the screw by the headlight and pulling the indicator lens forward. Look into where the indicator came out, you should see the low (suction) side access valve. Start engine and run for 5 minutes with air con on recycled air at coolest setting. With engine running & air con still on, check pressure with TESTER (8 psi in my case.) Screw can of gas onto the connector lead in the Top-up Kit. With the engine still running & aircon still on, connect the hose from the kit to the valve, screw piercing valve in, then out to start the top-up. Once you have put some in, screw valve on hose closed again, remove hose and test as before. If your doing a major top-up then you may want a big jug of warm water to stand the can in whilst topping up. I used a whole can on mine to put it into the center of the green on the tester. At

My R reg does have a RF Remote, but it is a SEAT so perhaps it is model specific? Could he not do the remote learning thing and see if the LED flashes for program mode? Oh aye, and I consistantly get 50mpg from mine, but then it is a TDi!

If the head gasket was pressurising the coolant then normally you show a slight overheat when you put a lot of load on the engine. This is because of the build up of pressure in the cooling system. If the gasket has failed between a waterway and a cylinder then it may be allowing a little water through into the cylinder where it is ending up as steam, your only loosing a little water a week at this point, so it would not smoke like a traction engine. But headgaskets have a wide range of symptoms and you may get some of them and you may not. Often headgaskets are missed as a problem because people are not getting all the signs of failure, where there are infact many different signs of failure. Why if the gasket failed between a cylinder and a waterway would you get oil in the water? But headgaskets also get the blame for things when they are not at fault because the home mechanic mis-diagnoses the real problem. The only way you can rule out the headgasket in your case would be to have a chemical test done that detects exhaust gas in the coolant. But as you are not showing a rise in temperature on the gauge my gut reaction is it is unlikely to be the problem, but then I am a DIY mechanic......

I concur, a second opinion is required. 20K is nothing, the disks should last at least 50K

Why do you suppose it is called a "Brake Wind-back Tool?" :huh: :huh: :D

If it is the high pressure switch then it is located on the aircon pipework behind the horn in the engine compartment. The TIS does not say if the system needs evacuated, so I can't help on that.

There is no need to post the same question more than once. You are unlikely to get any different replies the second time round.

The switch is just above the pedal in the footwell.

I once had a drive in a transit that was owned by Cosworth and had one of their engines in, don't know which one though. It was RWD and empty and the power to weight ratio was huge, it was scary fast, the clocks went up to 120mph and then ran out..... I only went from Wellingbourgh to Stoke on Trent and managed to smile my way through the best part of a tank of petrol! When I got back they went out to the van and were laughing, as it had a computer system fitted under the dash on the passenger side that I had not even spotted, and they knew what my average & top speed was!

Do some vehicles not have some fancy oil testing sensor in the sump?

Yes, about a couple of seconds is the norm! The chances are that one or more of the glow plugs have failed, does it start after about 20 seconds of continous cranking?

Still most likely 288, but you really need to check with a motor factors.

How do you know?

It is a "Y" reg so most likely 15" wheels, if so the whole front disks, pads and rear pads comes to

Yes they are the same.

It is very simple to do, perhaps one of the simplest jobs on a car. Check out German Swedish & French http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ for the parts. Special tools wise you will need a brake hose clamp and brake wind-back tool, and perhaps an impact driver.

Do you think he got it fixed?

When I bought my radio the people supplied one of these: http://www.bluespot.co.uk/install/vw_kit.jpg And told me the silver bit was an amplifier, for the reason I gave above. I guess that it could just be a way of shooting the voltage down the cable to the mast-head amplifier.

Dead easy. Take out the two screws in the top of the surround, remove the surround by pulling from the top, remove the metal clip at the bottom in front of the cluster that the bottom of the surround sits in, remove the screw at the top of the cluster and swivel the top down and pull out. 5 minute job really.

I don't think it is the case with the Galaxy, but on the Alhambra and Sharan the booster is built into the radio, so I am posting this for reference purposes really. So if you have changed the radio in your Bammer or Shazza, and it has the aerial on the glass of the offside rear window and are getting rubbish reception then that is why. A in-line amplifier is available from most car audio shops, it uses the electric aerial supply to power it up, and plugs between the radio and the aerial plug.