Masked Marauder

I changed my pump a couple of months back as the bearing was shot. There is no need to touch the cam belt. The job is a bit drawn out, but simple enough with the right tools.

If it is not safety critical then it is not a recall, only an advisory. That is why you only find out when it goes wrong!

You are waiting for the timer to expire? When I got my Bammer I took the bulbs out until I could sort the problem out, only to find that I was not waiting long enough for the timer to cut out.

I can confirm it is a Phillips chip inside the key. There was a post on here where a guy had an independent locksmith fix his. It was VR6 and he used this company http://www.eydens.co.uk/transponder-keys.html so it can be done.

The dealers can get this code still, you have to speak to the service department and they can eMail head office who will provide the key security code, workshop & importer number and date the code was generated.

I bought my TDi, I was not given it. It is in the outside lane when I am overtaking. The speed it is travelling at is appropriate to the circumstances. I own neither pipe or slippers. I don't have room in my shed for an old MAF, it is too full of Astra GTE bits, that's a car that weighs about half a tonne when stripped out. I have two, one is 160bhp, the other is 196 bhp. So that is 392BHP/Tonne, what's your V6 Galaxy got? I save my racing for the track, I don't feel the need for a high powered road car, although the V6 could not really be described as high-powered, after all a Galaxy weighs about a tonne and three quarters in road trim. That and the drag of your fuel bowser trailer..... Some one once told me the only thing that V6 drivers look at in town is their own reflection in the shop windows to make sure they look good. After all a V6 Galaxy is a real fanny magnet compared to a TDi.........

The pin is hard to pull out, get a pair of long nosed pliers on it.

Thr pedal switch needs re-set. Press the pedal down and look up at where it rests, there is a pin that works the brake light switch, Pull the pin OUT and then let the pedal go, that will reset the switch.

I sse you have changed the thermostat. I would be inclined to remove it and see what happens if you run without it, although it is sounding like a knackered water pump. I really don't think it is an air-lock. normally a symptom of that is a cold heater. It could be a blocked rad, but that would mean taking it off and flushing it.

Nope. It is not in the manual so it is not tested.

There are more fuses at the top, you want the second in from the left. http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/gifs/95_97GalaxyFusebox.gif

OK hooked mine up the VAG-COM again and logged the data. The temperature rises at a reasonable pace until it gets to about 79 degrees, when the booster heater cut out. The stat was not open and it was clear that the engine needed more fuel burning to get it hot. So the revs were increased from 840 at idle to 2500rpm and then the temperature gradually increased to 88 degrees, where it dropped slightly and then rose again. I presume this was as the thermostat opened, the bottom hose was still cold until this point. After that the temperature remained steady at 88.4 degrees @ 1500rpm, as any drop to idle was matched with a temperature drop. The bottom hose was still quite cool. It ran like this for five minutes, temperature between 88.2 and 88.8 degrees. I then upped the revs as the temperature was going nowhere, just staying between the above figures. It started to creep up and at 94.5 degrees the fans cut in on the radiator and remained on until the engine was allowed to idle at 840rpm again. The temperature then dropped quickly to 90degrees when the fan went off, then dropped slowly to 88.2 then down to 85 degrees and was continuing to drop when I stopped logging the data. So there you have it, don't know if it will help you decide what is wrong but it proves at theis time of year at least, at idle there is not enough waste heat to fully warm up the engine!.

My bammer had been running (static) for an hour when I hooked up VAG-Com and the temperature was 80.6 degrees. The guage needle was in the centre. Perhaps it needs to get a bit hotter?

99 times out of 100 the gearbox switch is faulty. 100 times out of 100 it is a shit to get at! So short of changing it he would have to wire a dashboard switch in.

I think it could be that the oil surges forward making the sensor think the oil level is too high. But that is just my mumblings! On Flyingduchmans points I am willing to bet that when Quickfit wound the caliper pistons back in they did not clamp the hose and open the bleed nipple, pushing the fluid in the caliper back into the reservoir and that caused it to either overflow, so it looked like it was leaking, or pressurised the reservoir blowing the seal out. And if there was a ridge on the edge of the disks then the pads may not have been making full contact. This causes a spongy feel as the caliper does not push evenly onto the pad because the pad is sitting at a slight angle. New disks were required from the start.

Oooops. Never meant to be so acidic chap, bad night for me last night. On the spot lamp issue, if it is on a separate switch you can have what you like really as it is an ancillary "work light." Got to agree about the clean car bit. Also if you clip all the seat belts into the receivers it makes the car look like it has been pre-tested! But ultimately the MOT test is supposed to be conducted to a standardised set of rules and a pass or fail should pretty much be the same wherever the car is tested. As for the tightening of the rules, wait until the new MOT test they are doing in Northern Ireland comes in over here! This includes shaking the car to see if anything falls off...... But the main thing coming to us on the mainland is the computerised system. That will transform some aspects of the testing system. In particular the computer will time the test to make sure it is not done too quickly. That means that if you take your car away from the testing station following a failure, then a re-test will be another full test unless it is for some specifically listed fail points and is presented before the end of the next day. Also the number of tests a tester is permitted to do in a day will be automatically enforced by the system. So you can expect the number of garages willing to do free re-tests to fall dramatically. But ultimately a proper test is better than a dodgy one where the tester has rushed through so he can get on with something else.

I have re-linked the photo of the low-cost repair that has been done to mine as it had gone missing. This had been done before I bought the car and it is still working fine over a year later. http://www.bigtrucker.co.uk/images/wiperlinkage.jpg

Yes, as long as it only lights when reverse gear is selected, and I have seen it done on a mini. And you did not explain your decision to repair anything you simply spouted "Wanna bet?" You made it clear? I said that it was not a fail, you said "Wanna bet?" I will take your bet. An advise is not a fail, so what do you get for the reversing light not working, an advise or a fail? Sure you can appeal an advisory, what are you hoping the VOSA inspector will do, change the advisory to a fail? In any case advisories are only supposed to be on any official paperwork if it is a tested item and it passes, but requires attention. See my replies and links in the other thread, they are not tested for anything other than opacity, normally due to de-laminating, which is not the same as light transmission. The tester has no training or equipment to test the percentage of light passed through. Why? Because it is not a tested item. The question asked was will a car pass it's MOT if the reversing lights are not working, not what my (or your) personal opinion is on vehicle defects on non-essential ancillary equipment. You would never make it there in time, you would be stuck in your own fudge.

Tinted windows can not be tested, a MOT tester is neither trained or equiped to test them.

Found an on-line version: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/mot_section_one.htm

I have a copy of the current MOT testers handbook in front of me. It lists EVERYTHING that is tested. There is NO mention of reversing lights as they are ancillary equipment and NOT a legal requirement. Next you will be telling us that front fog and driving lights are fitted so must work. So if you can offer some documentary or referable evidence to the contrary then I will stand corrected.

The reversing light is not tested as part of the MOT.

As they are probably worn out by now I don't think it matters. This thread is 2 1/2 years old you know....... But the answer is you drive at reduced speed until you can get them the right way.

Template and instructions (NOT for Xenon/HID):Q51H105B.pdf

It could be that the Magnatec he has been using exceeds the required specification but has not been tested. But do you want to take the chance?