Masked Marauder

That's what annoys me in gerneral though, is when someone comes on, puts a post up, or often PMing you, asking for advice and you don't get any feedback or a thank-you. And people who don't know how to use the se...... Don't get me started, I am tired and emotional!

You are asking about a two year old car with the average mileage of an 8 year old car. It will depend on your local area etc. But I would start asking for offers around 10K if it has FSH.

I can not see an issue with shorting it out permanently in the winter with a low-ampere mini fuse. It cuts out when the engine gets to running temperature anyway.

Show me a scrote who has not got the code generator off of eMule etc......

That will be pin 4 on connector E then "Audio Muting for Car Telephone"

It will be easier the next time you do it!

The switch on the gearbox is faulty. It is located on the top of the gearbox, pretty much under the battery tray by the look of the diagram, but I have not actually looked on the car.

The ticking is most likely the metering pump, we get this sometimes on the night heaters at work.

Not. Although it is the same interface it is not fully compliant.

How old is your car, as there was a fuel filling issue on some early petrol models?

I have looked on the parts catalogue and all the mounting, cabling, drive-belts etc are the same regardless of the alternator fitted. From that point of view it appears to be a straight swap. If you do though, you might want to consider a bigger battery too. And don't believe the Haynes manual, your model has either a 90, 120 or 150 amp alternator.

It should be fuse 35, a 20 amp.

When it rains the rain runs down the windscreen and runs off behind the scuttle panel where it splashes onto the pollen filter. Any fresh air drawn into the car is pulled through the pollen filter and the moisture enters the car. Later models were fitted with a pollen filter holder that has a splash shield fitted.

And splash shield on the pollen filter too.

No, it is just sitting on the pully differently, as long as it is the same width as the old one then there is no need to worry.

Only if you leave a mark...

No need. You have not changed anything electrical.

Nah, the pullies on the pump and the cam are twice the size of the crank so they turn at half the speed. If the pins go in it should be TDC on No1

No, it is a definate stamp-mark into the flat edge of the flywheel. It is not like on the TIS though. It is obvious once you find it though, but there is no pointer on the housing, you have to center it in the hole.

I spent about an hour before I did the following: I used a deep 10mm socket to remove the No1 Glow plug, put a stiff wire down the glow plug hole as a probe and turned the engine until it was about TDC. Then I found the mark on the flywheel by tweaking the crank back and forwards a touch at at time. If you do this take care though, you can't just put the wire in you have to lift it up, move the piston up in the bore, probe, and repeat until you find it. I also had to remove all the gubbins round the battery tray and the intercooler pipe too though. It really is a pig to do in an engine compartment where the engine is under the front of the car....

Slipped crank pully? Or injection sensor? That would give the beeps too.

If that is the problem, then about

What year/Mk is your car?

It sounds like a siezed aircon compressor. Was the aircon working correctly previously?