Andrew T

I was under the impression that the design work was entirely done by VW and then productionised by Ford. Certainly a lot of components are recogisable as generic VW parts.

Yes I have to agree with you Greg, even Citroen, bloody crappy Citroen managed to make an AC system that lasted for 7 years in my Xantia without any attention, so it really shouldn't be beyond the wit of the alledged God Volkswagen. Poor component quality is only part of the issue though, the seeming inability of Garages to identify and resolve problems correctly causes huge problems for customers. In my case several hundred

How confident are you of the diagnosis of these garages ? When I had similar problems the Galaxy went to a general garage who spent a day playing with it and then said they couldn't fix it, it then went to an aircon specialist who did the same and suggested I took it to a Ford dealer to get it diagnosed. The ford dealer asked for

I'm getting a little confused with the relay numbers and functions. I understand that failure of relay 30 (power boot relay) is a well known problem on Mk1s (only up to 98?). My MK2 handbook (car registered April 2001) lists relay position 30 as not used. No other relay is listed as the power boot relay. A previous thread suggested that relay 27 on the MK2 had superseded relay 30. My handbook lists relay 27 as "Fuel Supply (DOHC Engines)". Whilst I can see that failure of that relay would lead to cutting out of the engine I can't see that it would prevent the engine turning over. Another member with none starting and cutting out problems on his MK2 2.3 has been told by his dealer that they relaced the Power Boot relay, but they didn't tell him which relay it was. One explanation is that the handbook is wrong (not for the first time) and relay 27 is the power boot relay, however the none starting / power boot relay is a problem that has been mentioned occasionally on Diesels, on whch I presume relay 27 is ommited. Any thoughts ?

Ah, the best laid plans of Mice and Men often go awry........ Well, we were on the road at 03.15 (and what a nice time to be on the roads, everyone driving with a sense of purpose) down the M1 and hit the M25 at 06.00. Started to go clockwise until 10 minutes later we got a traffic flash saying the M25 was blocked clockwise at J28 north of the cossing. At J25 we decided to cut our losses, do a U turn and go anticlockwise. Approaching and J21 we got another flash saying there was an accident at J19 anticlockwise backed up beyond J21. Can't win can you ? After sitting still for 15 minutes we bailed out and went through Watford. Missed our Tunnel deperature but got loaded withtin an hour. Coming back up the North coast of France on Monday I noticed a lot of flash english registered cars flying past us on the Autoroute, Porches TVRs even a Lambo - thought it must be a car club outing. When we got to the next Peage there was the most spectacular (and expensive) traffic jam I've ever seen. Every lane was packed with exotica, spotted a Lancia Stratos and a Zonda. People were getting out and taking pictures of it (and I now wish I had - but my wife thought to do so was deeply sad). Then I twigged that it must have been the LeMans 24 hour race at the weekend. It was the same story at every toll booth after that and the Eurotunnel check in, so we missed the bloody train again. C'est la vie.

There are occasional reports of one of the Engine mount bolts shearing, allowing the engine to rock and knock (which can fracture the aircon pipes).

Sorry I thought you were explaining how to trace the fault. Graham, the auxilliary fuse box you had replaced is not the one that houses the cooling fan relays. However if your problem goes back to its replacement then it's worth checking the wiring in this region (does one of those high amp fuses cover the fans?).

You do have a MAF, but not the same type as that on the Diesel. It costs about

Er, pulling out the Fan relay will certainly stop them, but won't tell you if that's the problem. Try tapping the relay with the handle of a screw driver and see if the jolt stops the fan. If a relay is

It could easily be the relay sticking.

Yes, drove a lot in a k reg one we had at at work, 150k on it and it never went wrong. It also has a reasonable amount of luggage space even 8-up. however back seat legroom is poor because of the high floor, it only has 1 exit door and the driving position is cramped for such a big vehicle (because you sit on top of the engine). It also feels very soggy and unresponsive to drive compared to the Galaxy.

N.B. On the MK2 Relay 27 is "Fuel Supply (DOHC)".

I also own a ten year old Honda that utterly shames the Gal for quality and reliability, yet I find the Gal to useful to think of selling, and I love the commanding and comfortable driving driving position.

It's always worth disconnecting the Battery for an hour or so (making sure you have your radio code first) failing that, see if any members are near you with VAG COM. It's also worth knowing that unfranchised Garages are getting hold of this technology. My local one charged

Note to Moderators - it might be an idea to pin this thread on FAQs as it seems crop up fairly regularly. Suggest title; Intermittant starting and cutting out MK11 2.3 ?

Can you say if it was Relay 27 that was replaced ? that would confirm that this equates to relay 30 (K108 power relay) failure on the MK1, a common fault.

You may not have known, but it's what they're supposed to do. Turn the Key in either front door lock towards the front of the car and all (powered) door windows go down - useful for venting the car when you return to it on a hot day. Turn the key towards the back and all open windows close - including the rear quarter lights.

The none remote key will start the car. And to reiterate MMs advice (which I wished I'd taken at the time) glue your chip in! our key fell to bits and we were very lucky to find the chip as it had fallen into long grass.

I thought Knock for Knock meant each party paid for 50% of the others damage?

I'm afraid I've reached the limit of my mechanical knowledge, I'm inclined to think it might be a fueling problem, but when it originally happened you lost the starter as well. Can anyone with access to TIS tell if on a MK11 2.3 the immobiliser disconnects both the starter and fuel pump ?

Is there any consistancy about when it cuts out ? full throttle for instance or as you lift off ? Also have you checked if the LED on the drivers door is flashing as it cuts out ?

How about an intermittant fuel pump relay - did they check that ? I don't suppose it would throw up a fault code. Do you really mean the Engine fires up when when you put it in Neutral (does the starter operate itself ?) or when you go from Neutral back into Gear i.e. you're bump starting it ?

Yes, there may be nothing wrong with your Pollen Filter. Bear mine that a damp passenger footwell / under seat area can also come from a split rear washer pipe or very occasionally a poorly sealed windscreen.