Saif Rehman

Hi Erik, Welcome, so is your Galaxy a 115/130/150bhp - LX/Zetec or Ghia model?

Listen lads, you'll need to wait - tomorrow if the weather is okay then i'll have a look at the door gaiter (both sides) then at apprximately 1515hrs i will get my 9 yr old daughter (once she's back from school) to get the sidelight bulb holder out from underneath the wheel arch since my hands are far too big! ;) P.S. My window too made a clunk recently but i don't want to take the door card off before i fix the other niggling problems.

Sorry for being a bit stupid; what can happen if I leave the undertray off my Galaxy? I removed mine t change the oil and didn't refit it. For a start, water will get into the power steering area and could cause power steering failure amongst other things, the undershield is there for a reason, please for a sake of a few quid or time have it reinstalled.

Kev, the solder around resistor looked fine on the old one i removed following Audiman's instructions - i managed to get the new resistor pack from eBay about a year ago and iirc it only cost me

Audiman, you are a star! ;) How the hell did i miss your post through all the trailling i did using the 'search' facility - anyway a virtual pint is on it's way to you. Thanks again.

Thanks for the suggestion kev, but since there has been quite a few members on this forum who have replaced the resistor in the past, i was hoping for one of them to give me a step by step on the removal of the glovebox. Couldn't be bothered today to have another look but i'll try again tomorrow. Bigjeeze, what surprised me even more was the fact the nsr caliper had been changed only a few months back because it had failed it's MOT on the rear brakes, i didn't use copper slip this time even though i had dug the cannister out! I know now that i should have applied it. I'll just need to keep an eye on the brakes say after a month or so to see how they are fairing.

Well, after taking the plunge and borrowing a few tools from a friend i decided to tackle the rear brakes. 0915 in the morning after doing the school run, car gets jacked-up, axel stands under, then stop! Bl**dy buggers at the tyre depot had tightened the bolts so hard that i had to find a massive pole to give me some leverage to get the things off. Now, what i was very surprised to find was the nsr brake disc worn condsiderably and the pad nearest to me was worn down to the rivets yet the pad on the other side of the caliper was fine. I, then remembered to take tha cap off the brake fliud reservoir, now, whoever came up with that idea to put it such an awkward place should be shot! The air cleaner box had to come out. Off came the caliper, cabled-tied to the spring, rewind tool to push piston back, discs changed and new pads fitted (with a little filling aroung the edges). The other side (osr) seemed ok compared to the nsr. So everthing from start to finish took 2 hours with a tea-break in between. Took it for run and everthing was hunky-dorey. Well chuffed i was. Feeling confident, i decided to change the resistor for the heater as for the past year it would only work at speeds 3 and 4. Reading the posts on this forum, it looked pretty straight forward. After 1 hour i gave up couldn't get the glove compartment removed no matter what i tried. So, can anyone kind enough to give me a step by step instuctions on its removal would be greatly appreciated. P.S. In regards to the brakes, i did not clamp the brake hose or touch the brake nipple but i was very careful and slow in rewinding the piston back. After driving the car and testing the brakes the fluid is just shy of the max mark with no signs of leakage or loss. So, what is census on this - clamp on or not required?

Are you member of a recovery service - e.g. The AA of The RAC as they have a tool which removes the locking nut, if not, then try Halfords or a motor factor. EDIT: PS, whereabouts exactly are you?

Speedo cable on it's way out??? What kind of car do you have? i.e. Make, model, year, fuel etc etc And try this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...c=16262&hl=

Check the belts too, BTW - have you got a undertray fitted? If not, that could be half your problem.

Paul, this guy is selling genuine xenon headlamps for

That's because the power steering isn't working with the engine off - not recommended! Check the power steering fluid, wheels and tyres and tyre pressures.

No good to me then. :ph34r:

Hi, I have a MK2 but I also have a MK1 handbook which states that relay 13 is for the lights. The relay is in the central fuse box under the instrument panel. Hope it helps.

Really cheap if your current Galaxy has Xenon headlights as standard and to keep this as a spare, however, he has only the passenger side left and no ballast as previously mentioned.

zed, in simple terms the MAF is a key engine sensor that detects the volume of air drawn into the engine and in return informs the ecu (brain) to deliver the correct amount of fuel into the combustion chamber. Do a search for 'maf' and be surprised on the results - they will also reveal a technique used to determine if you have a faulty maf or not and if i recall correctly there was a thread that dealt with cleaning the maf with a simple carb cleaner spray but if you follow this route (cleaning) be careful as it is very fragile.

Well, if it's the correct oil for the VW Pd engine, then why not? BTW, where or who is this place that sells it at

Hi, I'm glad you didn't take offence, maybe my opinions would be different if I saw it in the 'flesh'. So, slam the car get bigger wider wheels and complete the A-Team look Mr T! ;)

Please do not be offended but i don't like the centre caps painted black. From a distance it will probably look like a big nut or something missing. I would have preferred the original chrome centre caps which can be picked up from eBay relatively cheap.

Okay, back to gregers original request: Cheapest place so far for the correct spec oil i could find is ebay for Millers XFE Pd at

Hi, seems like the lock is faulty - click on my signature where it says 'FAQ's for common problems and solutions' and i think it's number 13 for removal of the tailgate trim. EDIT Disregard the above as you need to have the tailgate open which obviously you cannot! Hopefully someone will pop along to help. Sorry again

Yep, mines the same - about 1-2cm down the centre of the windscreen. I am 90% sure that there are two elements in the windscreen hence the gap.

Hi zed, According to Parkers Guide the tdi 110 is only 1.3s slower to 60mph and has a top speed of 107mph as opposed to 117mph for the 130bhp model. Where you will notice the difference is the 'torque' figures which means the 130 will have better acceleration without the need to drop a gear or two.

Hi, you say you have driven a 2.0tdi, this suggests it was the Mk 3 version which is the newer current style. Diesel Galaxies do hold there value as opposed to their petrol counterparts. This coupled with excellent fuel economy makes the diesel variant more desireable. Problems with Ford Diesels? Depends if you go for a MK2 which uses the VW Pd engine and is very reliable if kept in tip top condition, my brother has the newer MK3 (06 plate) diesel and so far it has been a good car with the engine (2.0tdi) being very responsive and better fuel economy than my 1.9tdi. So what sort of budget do you have? This will gives us what sort of car (MK3 or MK2) you can look for.

Happy Birthday mumof4 - Wishing you all the best.